Hi,
just wondered if anyone has successfully been inside a Sennheiser ew100 G3
radio
mic.
http://www.thomann.de/gb/sennheiser_...FabLtAodI3AA-w

I've repaired quite a few G2 and G1 mics, these are relatively easy to
dismantle, and replace the SMD on/off tactile switch that usually gets
broken.

The G3 is different in that it has 2 x tiny T4 Torx bolts either side of the
sharkfin aerial you need to undo, to release the electronics.
Someone had previously had a go at these and partially rounded the heads,
and I found them extraordinarily difficult to remove.
I got one off, but I stupidly further damaged the other one, which will now
require drilling out as the Torx is now a rounded hole.


I phoned Sennheiser and spoke to a Service Tech.
Apparently these Torx bolts are glued in - he said so as to avoid cross
threading them, which I didn't quite understand, or perhaps misinterpreted.
You need to heat them up first, he said.

He further said that the on/off switch was not replaceable anyway, you need
to replace a whole section instead.
(This mic does not turn on)

I don't know why Sennheiser have decided to make these so difficult to
repair.
(But I can guess)


Now wise after the event, next time I get one in I will buy a proper T4
screwdriver.

I wasn't sure what size these screws actually are, just smaller than the
proper T5 screwdriver I have, so I bought a cheap set of ebay mobile phone
Torx drivers to find out.
These are jeweller type things, and too thin and soft to get enough torque
on these incredibly stiff bolts.
I shouldn't have attempted the removal of damaged bolts with this unsuitable
crappy tool, but was impatient. Doh!

I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the glue -
all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx screwdriver
into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?



Gareth.

Gareth Magennis Inscribed thus:

Hi,
just wondered if anyone has successfully been inside a Sennheiser
ew100 G3 radio
mic.

http://www.thomann.de/gb/sennheiser_...FabLtAodI3AA-w

I've repaired quite a few G2 and G1 mics, these are relatively easy to
dismantle, and replace the SMD on/off tactile switch that usually gets
broken.

The G3 is different in that it has 2 x tiny T4 Torx bolts either side
of the sharkfin aerial you need to undo, to release the electronics.
Someone had previously had a go at these and partially rounded the
heads, and I found them extraordinarily difficult to remove.
I got one off, but I stupidly further damaged the other one, which
will now require drilling out as the Torx is now a rounded hole.


I phoned Sennheiser and spoke to a Service Tech.
Apparently these Torx bolts are glued in - he said so as to avoid
cross threading them, which I didn't quite understand, or perhaps
misinterpreted. You need to heat them up first, he said.

He further said that the on/off switch was not replaceable anyway, you
need to replace a whole section instead.
(This mic does not turn on)

I don't know why Sennheiser have decided to make these so difficult to
repair.
(But I can guess)


Now wise after the event, next time I get one in I will buy a proper
T4 screwdriver.

I wasn't sure what size these screws actually are, just smaller than
the proper T5 screwdriver I have, so I bought a cheap set of ebay
mobile phone Torx drivers to find out.
These are jeweller type things, and too thin and soft to get enough
torque on these incredibly stiff bolts.
I shouldn't have attempted the removal of damaged bolts with this
unsuitable
crappy tool, but was impatient. Doh!

I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the
glue - all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx
screwdriver into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?



Gareth.

Use a soldering iron !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the
glue - all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx
screwdriver into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?



Gareth.

Use a soldering iron !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.



Hmm, you are probably right.

I'm still in paranoid mode, trying not to damage tiny delicate things that
don't belong to me.
The bolts appear to screw into threaded inserts, and I fear if I applied too
much heat, I'd strip the inserts from the mic, rather than free the bolt
from the inserts.

I'm not usually a conspiracy theorist, but am slightly leaning towards the
distinct possibility that Sennheiser do not want third parties repairing
their microphones.


Gareth.

I got one off, but I stupidly further damaged the other one, which
will now require drilling out as the Torx is now a rounded hole.

I couldn't tell from the website photo, but if the screws are not
recessed, you could cut a slot across the head of the screw with a
Dremel (sp?) and remove it with a straight slot screwdriver.

Ray

"Ray Carlsen" wrote in message
...

I got one off, but I stupidly further damaged the other one, which
will now require drilling out as the Torx is now a rounded hole.

I couldn't tell from the website photo, but if the screws are not
recessed, you could cut a slot across the head of the screw with a
Dremel (sp?) and remove it with a straight slot screwdriver.

Ray



They are recessed, but I had noted this may be a possibility if you had a
really really small disk cutter.
Sennheiser drill them out.



Gareth.

Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...
I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the
glue - all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx
screwdriver into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?



Gareth.

Use a soldering iron !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.



Hmm, you are probably right.

I'm still in paranoid mode, trying not to damage tiny delicate things that
don't belong to me.
The bolts appear to screw into threaded inserts, and I fear if I applied
too
much heat, I'd strip the inserts from the mic, rather than free the bolt
from the inserts.

I'm not usually a conspiracy theorist, but am slightly leaning towards the
distinct possibility that Sennheiser do not want third parties repairing
their microphones.


Gareth.





But it only takes one person to crack it and divulge to wwwland and their
competitive advantage is lost - strange old world

Is there in enough facetting left in the TORX holes to grind down an Allen
key to near enough match to get enough purchase. Preceeded by heating with a
soldering iron a timed number of seconds, gradually getting more adventurous
with the seconds on repeated attempts, after cooling off periods

Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable way. If you
do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable from an engineering
supplier then regrind a normal one with the other set/rake) and left hand
action drill

Make sure you store any left hand drill bits clearly marked as LEFT HAND

Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable way. If
you
do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable from an engineering
supplier then regrind a normal one with the other set/rake) and left hand
action drill




Yep, left hand drill bit was the plan.


Cheers,


Gareth.

Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...
Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable way. If
you
do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable from an
engineering
supplier then regrind a normal one with the other set/rake) and left
hand
action drill




Yep, left hand drill bit was the plan.


Cheers,


Gareth.



The final assault is the Dremmel and small .5mm disc to cut a slot. I
reatain these worn down discs precisely for this purpose. Undoubtably you
cut into the surrounding material but keep the orientations the same also
balanced and neat cut either side it does not necessarily look too out of
place. If it does look bad then cut a strip of craft-shop metalised film
around the mic and it can look totally in keeping.

N_Cook Inscribed thus:

But it only takes one person to crack it and divulge to wwwland and
their competitive advantage is lost - strange old world

Too true !

Is there in enough facetting left in the TORX holes to grind down an
Allen key to near enough match to get enough purchase. Preceeded by
heating with a soldering iron a timed number of seconds, gradually
getting more adventurous with the seconds on repeated attempts, after
cooling off periods

Heating for a timed period is the way I would go. Ten to fifteen
seconds would be a good period. Though if thats what their own techs
do I wouldn't worry too much. On the other hand their own techs will
have access to spares should they damage anything.

Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable way.
If you do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable from an
engineering supplier then regrind a normal one with the other
set/rake) and left hand action drill

Oww ! Trying to regrind a drill that small is going to be a major pain
in the butt... !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

But it only takes one person to crack it and divulge to wwwland and
their competitive advantage is lost - strange old world

Too true !

Is there in enough facetting left in the TORX holes to grind down an
Allen key to near enough match to get enough purchase. Preceeded by
heating with a soldering iron a timed number of seconds, gradually
getting more adventurous with the seconds on repeated attempts, after
cooling off periods

Heating for a timed period is the way I would go. Ten to fifteen
seconds would be a good period. Though if thats what their own techs
do I wouldn't worry too much. On the other hand their own techs will
have access to spares should they damage anything.

Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable way.
If you do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable from an
engineering supplier then regrind a normal one with the other
set/rake) and left hand action drill

Oww ! Trying to regrind a drill that small is going to be a major pain
in the butt... !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


No great precision required as long as used in conjuction with a left hand
drive . Its not so much for drilling out
the screw but just biting into the metal enough at some point to grab the
metal and then along with the localised heating produced, the screw
magically undoes itself.

N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

But it only takes one person to crack it and divulge to wwwland and
their competitive advantage is lost - strange old world

Too true !

Is there in enough facetting left in the TORX holes to grind down
an Allen key to near enough match to get enough purchase. Preceeded
by heating with a soldering iron a timed number of seconds,
gradually getting more adventurous with the seconds on repeated
attempts, after cooling off periods

Heating for a timed period is the way I would go. Ten to fifteen
seconds would be a good period. Though if thats what their own techs
do I wouldn't worry too much. On the other hand their own techs will
have access to spares should they damage anything.

Drilling out is likely to heat up anyway in a less controllable
way. If you do drill out use a left hand drill bit (if unavailable
from an engineering supplier then regrind a normal one with the
other set/rake) and left hand action drill

Oww ! Trying to regrind a drill that small is going to be a major
pain in the butt... !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


No great precision required as long as used in conjuction with a left
hand drive . Its not so much for drilling out
the screw but just biting into the metal enough at some point to grab
the metal and then along with the localised heating produced, the
screw magically undoes itself.

I remember many many years ago the foreman giving me a drill, telling me
it needed sharpening and instructing me to drill some holes in a piece
of plate...

Some time passed before it dawned on me... a left hand drill !
(insert your own cuss words here)

PS. 50 years later, I still have that 6mm drill to remind me !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Gareth Magennis kom med denne ide:

screwdriver.

I wasn't sure what size these screws actually are, just smaller than the
proper T5 screwdriver I have, so I bought a cheap set of ebay mobile phone
Torx drivers to find out.
These are jeweller type things, and too thin and soft to get enough torque on
these incredibly stiff bolts.
I shouldn't have attempted the removal of damaged bolts with this unsuitable
crappy tool, but was impatient. Doh!

I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the glue -
all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx screwdriver
into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?


Have you considered a bolt remover? I don't know if they come in such
small sizes.

Or you could superglue the screw to the screwdriver, just don't
superglue the screw to the body of the mic, so use a tiny drop.

Leif


--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.

Leif Neland wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis kom med denne ide:

screwdriver.

I wasn't sure what size these screws actually are, just smaller than the
proper T5 screwdriver I have, so I bought a cheap set of ebay mobile
phone
Torx drivers to find out.
These are jeweller type things, and too thin and soft to get enough
torque on
these incredibly stiff bolts.
I shouldn't have attempted the removal of damaged bolts with this
unsuitable
crappy tool, but was impatient. Doh!

I will also have to suss out a way of heating the bolts to soften the
glue -
all around is plastic, so I though perhaps inserting the Torx
screwdriver
into the head and heating the screwdriver blade?


Have you considered a bolt remover? I don't know if they come in such
small sizes.

Or you could superglue the screw to the screwdriver, just don't
superglue the screw to the body of the mic, so use a tiny drop.

Leif


--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.



Easy-outs are made of high carbon steel and that sort of diameter , would
break off leaving a lump that would stop you drilling out the original.
Superglue seems to be highly capilliary/surface active and will easily
migrate from where it is intended, even if its shear strength was high
enough for this use.
This week a CD player where the platter had moved on spindle motor shaft. I
would not use superglue to stop it moving as its almost guaranteed to
migrate down through the platter , down the shaft , into the motor bearing