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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb,
that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! |
#2
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
P E Schoen wrote in message
... I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! +++++++++ so the original lamp was conventional ballast and 2 pin bimetal switch starter ? |
#3
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
Besides the electrolytic and bulb, the starter cap is very failure-prone.
In circuits where the filaments are used, it's in series with the output, forming a series resonant tank; the low resistance of the cold filaments draws lots of current, starting the tube quickly. When the tube starts up, it appears in parallel with the cap, transforming the circuit into a good old series inductance ballast. The kind with only two pins skips the heating step and allows the tank voltage and current to resonate even higher, until the tube breaks down cold-cathode style. Once ignited, ion bombardment keeps the filaments warm, keeping the reignition and operating voltages normal. High voltage film caps are big and expensive, so understandably, they don't like to use them very much. Often, a poor green (polyester) type is found, which isn't even green anymore, but black from the abuse. Others may be burned through, having experienced too many starts (too much peak voltage) that self-healing has burned away most of the capacitance. The circuit then either tries oscillating too high (burning itself from switching loss) or oscillates lazily or latches (resonance no longer strong enough to draw enough current to provide sufficient feedback). Tim -- Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com "P E Schoen" wrote in message ... I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! |
#4
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 04:04:24 -0500, "P E Schoen" wrote:
I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! Problem? Yes. It would have been more sensible to replace that ancient, flakey, mercury-filled toob with LEDs. PS: GO NINERS!!!!!!!!! -- John Larkin Highland Technology Inc www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com Precision electronic instrumentation Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators Custom timing and laser controllers Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links VME analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators |
#5
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"P E Schoen" wrote in message ... I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be Many CFL PCBs have a diac - you can make a neat little pulsed bicycle light using a blocking oscillator inverter to charge a 47u electro. Everytime it reaches about 32V, you have the diac dump the charge into the LED bank of a cheap & nasty LED worklight. My project was published in Elektor a year or two ago. |
#6
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"P E Schoen" schreef in bericht ... I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! The traditional way of igniting TLs is first heating the heaters and then start it with a relative high voltage puls. But heating first is not necessary. The lamp will ignite if only the voltage of the ignition pulse is high enough. Nevertheless, the heaters cannot be omitted as they provide the electrons required for the current through the tube. Especially low power TLs are sometimes ignited this way. When used with low frequencies i.e. 50Hz or 60Hz, it is said to shorten the lifetime of the tube. The circuit I ever found in a handheld 8W TL lamp did work but gave a flickering light. I also use a magnifier lamp but a bigger one containing a 22W circline. It came with an old-fashioned iron ballast and no starter. I had to start it by hand using the special switch. That is I had to push the button and keep it pushed for a 6s. During this time the heaters were on. Relieving the button ignited the lamp... Most of the times. But over time igniting failed more and more and the circlines seemed to worn out faster and faster. Investigating revealed the special switch to be worn out beyond repair. So I got a 20W CFL, got out the electronics, put them in a box and connected it to the circline. Works fine for several years now already. petrus bitbyter |
#7
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"petrus bitbyter" wrote in message .nl... "P E Schoen" schreef in bericht ... I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! Here's a little clip of my repair project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7QJQ...ature=youtu.be This is good to know. Those little circuits in each CFL have a lot of good components, including a DIAC and high voltage transistors, and it's probably possible to use them to drive small fluorescent lamps for DIY projects or repair. I doubt they could be used for the 40W tubes, but a driver from a 100W CFL should work on a 20W tube such as are in many desk lamps and small kitchen fixtures. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this? Thanks, Paul PS: GO RAVENS!!!!! The traditional way of igniting TLs is first heating the heaters and then start it with a relative high voltage puls. But heating first is not necessary. The lamp will ignite if only the voltage of the ignition pulse is high enough. Nevertheless, the heaters cannot be omitted as they provide the electrons required for the current through the tube. Especially low power TLs are sometimes ignited this way. When used with low frequencies i.e. 50Hz or 60Hz, it is said to shorten the lifetime of the tube. The circuit I ever found in a handheld 8W TL lamp did work but gave a flickering light. I also use a magnifier lamp but a bigger one containing a 22W circline. It came with an old-fashioned iron ballast and no starter. I had to start it by hand using the special switch. That is I had to push the button and keep it pushed for a 6s. During this time the heaters were on. Relieving the button ignited the lamp... Most of the times. But over time igniting failed more and more and the circlines seemed to worn out faster and faster. Investigating revealed the special switch to be worn out beyond repair. So I got a 20W CFL, got out the electronics, put them in a box and connected it to the circline. Works fine for several years now already. Don't forget the significant increase of efficiency running the tube at around 20kHz. Frequency may also contribute to easier starting, although most CFLs seem to have some sort of setup to run power into the heaters. More often than not its a capacitor to bleed some of the AC current via the heaters, some Ikea branded CFLs I got from a car boot sale long ago had resin dipped double pellet thermistors bridging the heaters across the tube. |
#8
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"P E Schoen" It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! ** You are mixing up "watts" and "VA". CFL inverters, like most simple SMPS, have a PF of about 0.6 due to the peaky current wave shape drawn from the AC supply - so VA and watts numbers differ by about a 2:1 ratio. You did use a wide band "true rms " meter to measure the AC current - didn't you ? .... Phil |
#9
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Jan 21, 8:43*am, "Tim Williams" wrote:
Besides the electrolytic and bulb, the starter cap is very failure-prone. FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. -- Cheers, James Arthur |
#10
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
wrote in message ... On Jan 21, 8:43 am, "Tim Williams" wrote: Besides the electrolytic and bulb, the starter cap is very failure-prone. FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. -- Cheers, James Arthur And frequent cycling on/off is the major failure mechanism of the heaters, IMHO. I get very good life from CFL's in constant-on service. The Bright Effects lamps from Lowe's have been very good, and are priced fairly. Tom |
#11
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. .... Phil |
#12
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
wrote in message
... On Jan 21, 8:43 am, "Tim Williams" wrote: Besides the electrolytic and bulb, the starter cap is very failure-prone. FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. I don't know if any do fail specifically due to the start cap -- as you note, the filament tends to fail first. I haven't measured any of the caps to see the capacitance loss, but the color change is reason enough. EPCOS makes capacitors specifically for this service; their graphs of peak voltage vs. capacitance are reminiscient of the Write-Only Memory's "insertions vs. pins remaining" graph. ;-o Base-up tends to cook the capacitor; better ones don't mind so much. My parents have a GE "long life" model on their front porch, an enclosed (vented enough that bugs find their way in, but not so much that they find their way out before dying and making a pile...), base-up fixture. I installed them something like four years ago; the other outdoor lights (upright, even) have since failed, but the front porch, surprisingly, still works. I think. Come to think of it, I didn't look closely last time I was by; the front porch may've been replaced, most likely under pressure, the other "low priority targets" simply being "left in the dark"... :-) Tim -- Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com |
#13
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
wrote in message
... FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. I measured the heaters on one of the new circline lamps and they appear to be about 3 ohms each. So in series, using a starter, they would draw a high current surge and then probably much lower as they become nearly incandescent. Of course the ballast would limit the current to some much lower value. I figure that an ordinary magnetic ballast for 12W would drop about 30 volts at 100 mA during normal operation, so probably about 400 mA into the heaters. But since this lamp had only two wire zipcord going from the electronic ballast to the lamp, it obviously did not use the heaters with the original circuit. So I just shorted the connections for the heaters at the board, and it works perfectly well. I can't see where the 6 ohms of filament resistance would make much difference to a circuit designed for 100 mA, and I don't know why the CFLs use the heaters at all, or why they should burn out. It does appear that the heaters of the one dead CFL are open, although I thought I had continuity through one when I first measured it. One of the CFLs actually got broken when I hit it with a flyswatter as I waged war on the stinkbugs that love to circle the lamp. It seemed to continue to glow for a while, which may have been the heaters. The defunct circline lamp shows discoloration on one end and that heater is open, while the other is OK. I don't know how it can burn out if there is only one wire connected to it. Perhaps it just vaporizes because of the current flowing from it into the fluorescent plasma? I don't really know the details of operation. When I was still in High School I made a little multivibrator circuit that fed a 12V transformer and I connected the 120V winding through a capacitor to a small fluorescent lamp in a camping lantern. It originally used a big high voltage battery (maybe 90 volts and maybe two of them), and maybe some sort of vibrator as in old tube type car radios to get the AC voltage for the lamp. Will it work on just DC? My conversion worked on a 12V motorcycle battery, and it was instant start, whereas the original had a starter button. I think I still have that lantern somewhere. I should find it and look inside. I also have an old lantern that originally used two big doorbell batteries (remember them?), and I replaced them with a NiCad battery that was made of plexiglass so you could see the plates and electrolyte inside and possibly even service it. My father worked for a company that made exotic batteries for the military and I think this came from there, probably 50 years ago. Paul |
#14
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
In article , petrus
bitbyter writes Nevertheless, the heaters cannot be omitted as they provide the electrons required for the current through the tube. In other words, used like this, they are not heaters but cathodes. Presumably this is what a 'cold cathode' tube is. -- (\_/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#15
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Mike Tomlinson" schreef in bericht ... In article , petrus bitbyter writes Nevertheless, the heaters cannot be omitted as they provide the electrons required for the current through the tube. In other words, used like this, they are not heaters but cathodes. Presumably this is what a 'cold cathode' tube is. -- (\_/) (='.'=) (")_(") Sure. During the classic startup you can consider the heaters to be direct heated cathodes. Once the light is on they are pretty hot cold cathodes petrus bitbyter |
#16
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow
to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Fortunately, I have not had this problem. The CFLs in my bathroom and bedroom have lasted two to three years, and are turned on and off several times a day. |
#17
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Phil Allison" wrote in message ... FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! |
#18
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 06:40:44 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Fortunately, I have not had this problem. The CFLs in my bathroom and bedroom have lasted two to three years, and are turned on and off several times a day. Two or three years? I have incandescents that last a lot longer than that. |
#19
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Tim Williams" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... On Jan 21, 8:43 am, "Tim Williams" wrote: Besides the electrolytic and bulb, the starter cap is very failure-prone. FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. I don't know if any do fail specifically due to the start cap -- as you note, the filament tends to fail first. I haven't measured any of the caps to see the capacitance loss, but the color change is reason enough. On the last CFL I autopsied; the electrolytic read a realistic ESR on the Peak Atlas ESR70, but zero capacitance. When I double checked with the DSE ESR meter it showed O/C. On closer inspection, there was a tiny ring of corrosion "fur" round one of the legs. |
#20
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message ... In article , petrus bitbyter writes Nevertheless, the heaters cannot be omitted as they provide the electrons required for the current through the tube. In other words, used like this, they are not heaters but cathodes. Presumably this is what a 'cold cathode' tube is. On AC; each end alternates between anode & cathode - the electrode is heated during the periods when its an anode. Tubes for iron ballasts often have a "cathode" cylinder enclosing the heater. |
#21
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:44:06 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote: "Phil Allison" wrote in message ... FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! Can lights aren't ventilated. In fact, many are insulated (IC rated). They're hell on CFLs. |
#22
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. .... Phil |
#23
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 04:04:24 -0500, "P E Schoen"
wrote: I have a desk lamp, with a magnifier and a 12W T4 circline fluorescent bulb, that I use constantly for working on PCBs and electronics projects in general. I bought it several years ago and recently it started flickering and then died. I replaced the bulb, but still no joy, and after replacing the blown fuse and two damaged transistors, I found that the little transformer had an open winding. So, I thought, a 60W equivalent CFL is actually about 11-13 watts, and the little circuit in them should work. I had a couple of broken or dead bulbs ready for recycling, so I opened the bases, cut the leads, and extracted the PCBs. After a few unsuccessful tries, I was able to get it to work and now my lamp is once again operational. I found some schematics of the CFL driver boards he http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html Some of those circuits matched what I had almost exactly. It was a little difficult to follow the explanation of how they operate, but what was confusing is the four pins shown on the lamp itself, which is also how the bulbs are made. I assume they are the heaters that are usually activated with a starter, but I did not find any continuity on those pins. The desk lamp only had one wire to each of two pins on the circline bulb, but in the CFLs all four wires were connected to different points on the PCB. It would only work when I shorted the connections that would have gone to the heaters, and it seems to work very well. It starts to light at 50 VAC and reaches full brightness at 100-120V, at which it draws about 100mA. That's close enough to 12 watts for me! One other thing you can learn from this exercise - low cost part types. Typical gapped core sizes commonly used in this application can be designed in elsewhere for $0.02. Similar price ranges for bobbins, semiconductors, film caps, fuses and electrolytics. Lots of other things you can do with this stuff, knowing you won't be beat on material cost. RL |
#24
Posted to sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Phil Allison" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. Even stupid people should know better than put CFLs in a fitting like that! |
#25
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:41:16 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote: "Phil Allison" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. Even stupid people should know better than put CFLs in a fitting like that! I must be stupid then. I've got a CFL in a totally sealed (shower) fixture and it's been working fine for years. (I even conformally coated the lamp before sealing it in the fixture). I only buy name brand (eg. Philips) products though, and probably they're made a bit better than the ones that come 8 to a card. Never seen any perforation of the housings on failure. |
#26
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 03:04:10 +1000, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:41:16 -0000, "Ian Field" wrote: "Phil Allison" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. Even stupid people should know better than put CFLs in a fitting like that! I must be stupid then. I've got a CFL in a totally sealed (shower) fixture and it's been working fine for years. (I even conformally coated the lamp before sealing it in the fixture). I only buy name brand (eg. Philips) products though, and probably they're made a bit better than the ones that come 8 to a card. Never seen any perforation of the housings on failure. Nope. I lost three Philips to one power surge and on pulling them apart I can confirm they use the same caps or worse - mine were marked as 350V DC. Considering the mains was 240v AC thats not a lot of a safety margin. I now use whatever is cheapest seeing as it makes no difference to the quality. |
#27
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"David Eather" wrote in message newsp.wrdk0ae1wei6gd@phenom-pc... On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 03:04:10 +1000, Spehro Pefhany wrote: On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:41:16 -0000, "Ian Field" wrote: "Phil Allison" wrote in message ... "Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. Even stupid people should know better than put CFLs in a fitting like that! I must be stupid then. I've got a CFL in a totally sealed (shower) fixture and it's been working fine for years. (I even conformally coated the lamp before sealing it in the fixture). I only buy name brand (eg. Philips) products though, and probably they're made a bit better than the ones that come 8 to a card. Never seen any perforation of the housings on failure. Nope. I lost three Philips to one power surge and on pulling them apart I can confirm they use the same caps or worse - mine were marked as 350V DC. Considering the mains was 240v AC thats not a lot of a safety margin. In a TV or monitor you'd find 385V minimum, more likely 400V. Although nowadays with PFC front ends, there's no rectifier-reservoir electrolytic, the PFC unit is essentially a boost converter, so the main electrolytic would be about 450V. |
#28
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 03:46:48 +1000, "David Eather"
wrote: Nope. I lost three Philips to one power surge and on pulling them apart I can confirm they use the same caps or worse - mine were marked as 350V DC. Considering the mains was 240v AC thats not a lot of a safety margin. I now use whatever is cheapest seeing as it makes no difference to the quality. Parts that are marked the same are not necessarily the same. The $1.00 bulbs may contain gold-colored caps marked as 630VDC/125°C. http://www.discovercircuits.com/dc-m...Capacitor1.jpg Not sure if the 240V input makes much difference.. they are likely using a doubler circuit in our (120V) lamps. I have heard enough stories of people who bought the cheap ones and had initial failures, exciting failures, and such like to avoid the low end stuff. It would be nice if LED lamps got anywhere close to the brightness of CFL, halogen or incandescent bulbs at a reasonable price, but they are not very close yet. Maybe in a few years. I bought a couple MR11 "brightest on the market" bulbs to unload the halogen xfmr and allow me to put a bigger halogen in the centre bulb of a 3-light string, and they're not even comparable. I'll have to take some quantitative measurements at some point. |
#29
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message ... On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 03:46:48 +1000, "David Eather" wrote: Nope. I lost three Philips to one power surge and on pulling them apart I can confirm they use the same caps or worse - mine were marked as 350V DC. Considering the mains was 240v AC thats not a lot of a safety margin. I now use whatever is cheapest seeing as it makes no difference to the quality. Parts that are marked the same are not necessarily the same. The $1.00 bulbs may contain gold-colored caps marked as 630VDC/125°C. http://www.discovercircuits.com/dc-m...Capacitor1.jpg Not sure if the 240V input makes much difference.. they are likely using a doubler circuit in our (120V) lamps. I have heard enough stories of people who bought the cheap ones and had initial failures, exciting failures, and such like to avoid the low end stuff. It would be nice if LED lamps got anywhere close to the brightness of CFL, halogen or incandescent bulbs at a reasonable price, but they are not very close yet. Maybe in a few years. I bought a couple MR11 "brightest on the market" bulbs to unload the halogen xfmr and allow me to put a bigger halogen in the centre bulb of a 3-light string, and they're not even comparable. I'll have to take some quantitative measurements at some point. Last time I saw LED "bulbs" in the supermarket, they were significantly less lumen/W, several times the price and you'd need at least 3 (at 9W each) to equal the light output of an 18W CFL. LED lighting in the style similar to LV halogen type is supposedly up to the job. |
#30
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:40:37 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote: LED lighting in the style similar to LV halogen type is supposedly up to the job. Lumens per watt is probably okay. The problem is that they're using discrete SMT LEDs and the $ per incremental lumen is far more than for a CFL. These are the ones I bought. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00 I'd prefer to have 50W or 100W equivalent that burns 5 or 10W. |
#31
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Jan 22, 11:28*pm, "Phil Allison" wrote:
"Ian Field" "Phil Allison" FWIW, of the modest pile of CFLs I autopsied from my own house, 100% of the failures were from failed heaters. ** Most CFLs have PTC thermistors that increase current flow to the heater for the first few seconds - *makes the lamp start quickly, particularly in cool weather conditions. It also burns out the heater in a few hundred or so cycles. Claims for life spans of 6 or 8 thousand hours are based on continuous use in a cool environment - *plus lotsa good luck. This may be atypical. *I get good service from CFLs running them without enclosures; the enclosed, base-up fail modes may be different.. ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. Nice artcile Phil, But don't worry about the legislature's doing anything. What's needed is some lawayer to get a hold of it and sue the manufacturers. (That's the US way :^) George H. ... * Phil- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#32
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:00:38 -0800 (PST), George Herold
wrote: Nice artcile Phil, But don't worry about the legislature's doing anything. What's needed is some lawayer to get a hold of it and sue the manufacturers. (That's the US way :^) George H. The offshore manufacturers are probably not easy to get substantial judgements against- but the stores, especially those who do their own importing, have deep pockets and can't easily escape. They do have a good defense though- if it has safety agency approval, it's presumed to be safe. Maybe report it to the safety agencies- but I don't see anthing there that would really raise the alarm- incadescents break and short internally and implode from time to time, and none of the burn- through incidents shows support of combustion. Any fixture designed for a normal incandescent ought not to burn the office or house down. The one that 'exploded' is the closest one- the mfr may have substituted a cheaper non-fiberglass sleeving on that diode. |
#33
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:44:01 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:00:38 -0800 (PST), George Herold wrote: Nice artcile Phil, But don't worry about the legislature's doing anything. What's needed is some lawayer to get a hold of it and sue the manufacturers. (That's the US way :^) George H. The offshore manufacturers are probably not easy to get substantial judgements against- but the stores, especially those who do their own importing, have deep pockets and can't easily escape. They do have a good defense though- if it has safety agency approval, it's presumed to be safe. Maybe report it to the safety agencies- but I don't see anthing there that would really raise the alarm- incadescents break and short internally and implode from time to time, and none of the burn- through incidents shows support of combustion. Any fixture designed for a normal incandescent ought not to burn the office or house down. The one that 'exploded' is the closest one- the mfr may have substituted a cheaper non-fiberglass sleeving on that diode. P.S. http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11001.html Sold at: Discount stores in New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Connecticut from January 2008 to December 2008 for between $1 and $1.50. Manufactured in: China |
#34
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Spehro Pefhany" "Phil Allison" ** Recently, a neighbour had an 18W CFL explode and bits go all over the kitchen - it was base up in a non ventilated fitting. Must've been a pretty big explosion for bits to go everywhere from a non-ventilated fitting! ** See the second half of this page for pics of the actual CFL and fitting. http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm The are no ventilation a holes at the back of the fitting and all the spiral CFLs were a neat fit. I only buy name brand (eg. Philips) products though, and probably they're made a bit better than the ones that come 8 to a card. Never seen any perforation of the housings on failure. ** The plastic bases of most CFLs simply push fit together - so only a small explosion inside will blow the top part off. Small bits of glass were strewn from one end of the kitchen to the other ( when I arrived with my camera ) and some bits had landed on the benches - so it seemed the spiral tube must have exploded in mid air. The filaments were both intact so the only explanation I have is that the glass spiral impacted hard against the inside of the lamp fitting before falling in pieces. .... Phil |
#35
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
Spehro Pefhany wrote in
: snip It would be nice if LED lamps got anywhere close to the brightness of CFL, halogen or incandescent bulbs at a reasonable price, but they are not very close yet. Maybe in a few years. I bought a couple MR11 "brightest on the market" bulbs to unload the halogen xfmr and allow me to put a bigger halogen in the centre bulb of a 3-light string, and they're not even comparable. I'll have to take some quantitative measurements at some point. If you want relatively unbiased & consitent tests of LED bulbs, check out: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/ssl/caliper.html You have to promise that you aren't a commercial operation to see the full reports. The reports tend to lag a bit behind the latest technology, but the quality is going up & the prices are coming down. I have a couple of LED bulbs in special applications, and they work very nicely. I use a couple MR-16 replacements in gooseneck illuminators on my milling machine because I got tired of toasting myself with the halogen bulbs. I've also installed these: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...roductDisplay? catalogId=10053&langId=-1#.UQBxHfIT_To in stairwells where I want instant full brightness. They work great. They also actually cost a lot less than the dimmable CFL retrofit units I installed a number of years ago. Doug White |
#36
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Jan 23, 4:44*pm, Spehro Pefhany
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:00:38 -0800 (PST), George Herold wrote: Nice artcile Phil, *But don't worry about the legislature's doing anything. *What's needed is some lawayer to get a hold of it and sue the manufacturers. (That's the US way :^) George H. The offshore manufacturers are probably not easy to get substantial judgements against- but the stores, especially those who do their own importing, have deep pockets and can't easily escape. Grin sure sue everyone, They do have a good defense though- if it has safety agency approval, it's presumed to be safe. Maybe report it to the safety agencies- but I don't see anthing there that would really raise the alarm- incadescents break and short internally and implode from time to time, and none of the burn- through incidents shows support of combustion. Any fixture designed for a normal incandescent ought not to burn the office or house down. The one that 'exploded' is the closest one- the mfr may have substituted a cheaper non-fiberglass sleeving on that diode. OK maybe it will be the insurance company lawyers sueing for fire damage. I haven't had many problems with cfl's, except for globe units in the (steamy?) bathroom. George H. |
#37
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 09:45:44 +1100, the renowned "Phil Allison"
wrote: ** The plastic bases of most CFLs simply push fit together - so only a small explosion inside will blow the top part off. If they come apart easily by pulling and expose the mains potential, I would not think that would pass muster with the safety agencies. It's been a while since I've tried to take one part, but I recall whole rows of snaps that are not easy to disengage. Does Australia enforce national safety standards on the sale of mains-powered goods? Small bits of glass were strewn from one end of the kitchen to the other ( when I arrived with my camera ) and some bits had landed on the benches - so it seemed the spiral tube must have exploded in mid air. The filaments were both intact so the only explanation I have is that the glass spiral impacted hard against the inside of the lamp fitting before falling in pieces. ... Phil Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
#38
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message ... On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 09:45:44 +1100, the renowned "Phil Allison" wrote: ** The plastic bases of most CFLs simply push fit together - so only a small explosion inside will blow the top part off. If they come apart easily by pulling and expose the mains potential, I would not think that would pass muster with the safety agencies. It's been a while since I've tried to take one part, but I recall whole rows of snaps that are not easy to disengage. Many of the early types sold in the UK were fairly easy to pry open and could be clipped together again easily - the most recent Philips one's I bought are much more secure - you pretty much have to destroy the case to pry it open. |
#39
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
"Spehro Pefhany" "Phil Allison" ** The plastic bases of most CFLs simply push fit together - so only a small explosion inside will blow the top part off. If they come apart easily by pulling and expose the mains potential, ** See the word "explosion " ?? A tool ( ie screwdriver) is needed to open most CFLs and that is adequate to pass safety rules anywhere. .... Phil |
#40
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CFL ballast design, and using dead lamps for repair
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 10:20:29 +1100, the renowned "Phil Allison"
wrote: "Spehro Pefhany" "Phil Allison" ** The plastic bases of most CFLs simply push fit together - so only a small explosion inside will blow the top part off. If they come apart easily by pulling and expose the mains potential, ** See the word "explosion " ?? An explosion like "pop rocks" or an explosion like Bikini atoll? Maybe your mains has more oomph, but I've not seen anything that would blow apart a proper housing from a residential power line. A tool ( ie screwdriver) is needed to open most CFLs and that is adequate to pass safety rules anywhere. ... Phil Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
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