4 amp rated and doubled up as used in Crate GT 100H Stealth output impedance
selector. Amp grumbling by buzzing in its op Tx and no output. The selector
sw had vibrated into the "off" position. Easy to get into and there is no
detent spring + ball or toggle flip-flop contorted torsion spring mechanism
.. In fact the natural position of this switch is between the 2 states with
the moving contacts between the pairs of fixed contacts, ie off/ no
contacts, only the contacts themselves hold the slider in posistion when
manual moved. A huge slot that would take a carpenter's 3/8 inch screwdriver
but only requires a jeweller's screwdriver to shift, at 300 gm of force to
move one way and 600 gm the other.
Now I know what to do, just a 1/4 hour job to retrofit a dedent. Rob a
spring and ball from a standard slide sw. 2 grooves ground into the inside
of the fixed body of sw and hole drilled through the sliding section opened
out at one end for the ball , the end of the spring glued in place and ball
in-between static and sliding sections.

these things
http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf/19/...75/eps1sl1.pdf
this one now has a delatch force 600 gm one way and 800gm the other. As an
easier retrofit fudge perhaps a disc of rubber, sandwiched at either end by
the mounting screw, would bind the slider well enough to the chassis and
still allow movement

[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent
to the cited author.]

In article , says...

these things
http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf/19/...75/eps1sl1.pdf
this one now has a delatch force 600 gm one way and 800gm the other. As an
easier retrofit fudge perhaps a disc of rubber, sandwiched at either end by
the mounting screw, would bind the slider well enough to the chassis and
still allow movement

Does this application have the 230V / 115V legends coloured over with
black paint?

The fix could just be some hot melt glue squirted into and around the
screw driver slot with a small loop of wire or string embedded into it
so the glue wad can be pulled out at a future time if needed.

--

Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutions
http://www.carousel-design.com

Michael Karas wrote in message
...
[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent
to the cited author.]

In article , says...

these things
http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf/19/...75/eps1sl1.pdf
this one now has a delatch force 600 gm one way and 800gm the other. As
an
easier retrofit fudge perhaps a disc of rubber, sandwiched at either end
by
the mounting screw, would bind the slider well enough to the chassis and
still allow movement

Does this application have the 230V / 115V legends coloured over with
black paint?

The fix could just be some hot melt glue squirted into and around the
screw driver slot with a small loop of wire or string embedded into it
so the glue wad can be pulled out at a future time if needed.

--

Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutions
http://www.carousel-design.com


The ratings are embossed on the sw body but where the pins cme through, so
manufacturer must mark the chassis. For 110/240V selectable equipment only
used in the UK at 240V, I often insert a bent solder tag between such sw and
chassis at a mounting bolt, to lock into place. Too easy for a drunk
musician to change the sw trying to repair faulty kit.
But this use is for a relatively high speaker current slide switch rather
than mains