Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
cable breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens
frequently and takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried
to find the coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but
all I could find was a plug like the one at the right side of
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ho...se_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?

Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann

Have you considered using shrink-wrap tubing to create a strain relief?

"Jens Herrmann" wrote in message
...
: Hello,
: the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
: cable breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens
: frequently and takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried
: to find the coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but
: all I could find was a plug like the one at the right side of
: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ho...se_5,5x2,5.jpg
: This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
: connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
: What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
: could purchase the original coaxial power connector?
:
: Thanks in advance
: Jens Herrmann

http://www.laptopjacks.com/product/P...wer-Jacks.html

Colin

Using a 90 degree (right-angle) plug is much more resilient and suffers less
from abusive treatment, IMO.
The external connectors provided with many types of compact portable
equipment are inline/straight types, which makes little sense in terms of
reliability.. straight plugs generally exert more stress on the cable ends
near the back of the plug, and also the internal sockets of the equipment,
in addition to making the footprint of said compact equipment much larger
when accessories are connected.

Some equipment users routinely jamb equipment up against other surfaces,
oblivious to the strain being placed on the cables, especially cables with
straight plugs.
Trouble is, there are too many fragile connectors used on consumer grade
equipment for the sake of making the equipment compact.

A connector needs to be installed on a cable in a way to minimize movement
of the soldered connections. Soldered stranded wire will break easily if
allowed to move.
When the cable jacket is secured in the metal tabs of the connector, there
should be some slack in both conductors.. not a taut straight line to the
cable, but a loose wavy length.

I try to implement shrink tubing to act as a strain relief, in addition to
the strain relief of the connector cover.
It's important to securely clamp the cable sheath/jacket with the metal tabs
on the connector.. just pinching them with pliers is by far inferior to
firmly crimping the tabs around the jacket with a hex die crimper. Hex dies
deform the metal in such a way as to make a secure, compressed restraint
that lasts.

Additionally, the extra length of shrink tubing I add will be long enough to
enclose/grip the metal crimp fully, and extend along the cable to provide
more structural strength to the cable.

Trying to implement numerous improvements in modern connectors isn't always
easy since there is rarely any wasted space in many connector bodies.

DigiKey, Mouser and numerous other suppliers have power cables with molded
connectors mounted on them.
Even that RS store chain in the USA has several right-angle connectors in
some limited styles.. typically 2.5mm and 3.2mm signal cable plugs.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Jens Herrmann" wrote in message
...
Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the cable
breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens frequently and
takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried to find the
coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but all I could
find was a plug like the one at the right side of
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ho...se_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?

Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann

On 2/15/2012 1:21 PM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
cable breaks just at the coaxial power connector.

A cable has at least two conductors and several insulating layers.
EXACTLY what is breaking? Assume the plug is fine, 'cause you said
"cable". So, this is a wire problem...right???

What are the mechanical conditions that cause the break?
Could be anything from "just sitting on the table untouched"
to
"I tripped over the wire"
to
"I use it to measure G-forces when I'm on my pogo stick".

What happens when you put a small loop in the cable and hot-glue it
to the plug?

This happens
frequently and takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried
to find the coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but
all I could find was a plug like the one at the right side of
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ho...se_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring

Spring????

of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?


Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann

Wild_Bill wrote in message
...
Using a 90 degree (right-angle) plug is much more resilient and suffers
less
from abusive treatment, IMO.
The external connectors provided with many types of compact portable
equipment are inline/straight types, which makes little sense in terms of
reliability.. straight plugs generally exert more stress on the cable ends
near the back of the plug, and also the internal sockets of the equipment,
in addition to making the footprint of said compact equipment much larger
when accessories are connected.

Some equipment users routinely jamb equipment up against other surfaces,
oblivious to the strain being placed on the cables, especially cables with
straight plugs.
Trouble is, there are too many fragile connectors used on consumer grade
equipment for the sake of making the equipment compact.

A connector needs to be installed on a cable in a way to minimize movement
of the soldered connections. Soldered stranded wire will break easily if
allowed to move.
When the cable jacket is secured in the metal tabs of the connector, there
should be some slack in both conductors.. not a taut straight line to the
cable, but a loose wavy length.

I try to implement shrink tubing to act as a strain relief, in addition to
the strain relief of the connector cover.
It's important to securely clamp the cable sheath/jacket with the metal
tabs
on the connector.. just pinching them with pliers is by far inferior to
firmly crimping the tabs around the jacket with a hex die crimper. Hex
dies
deform the metal in such a way as to make a secure, compressed restraint
that lasts.

Additionally, the extra length of shrink tubing I add will be long enough
to
enclose/grip the metal crimp fully, and extend along the cable to provide
more structural strength to the cable.

Trying to implement numerous improvements in modern connectors isn't
always
easy since there is rarely any wasted space in many connector bodies.

DigiKey, Mouser and numerous other suppliers have power cables with molded
connectors mounted on them.
Even that RS store chain in the USA has several right-angle connectors in
some limited styles.. typically 2.5mm and 3.2mm signal cable plugs.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


"Jens Herrmann" wrote in message
...
Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
cable
breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens frequently and
takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried to find the
coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but all I could
find was a plug like the one at the right side of
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ho...se_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?

Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann


Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the lead and a whole cabinet falls over with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out , if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with hotmely
glue around the connector , heatchrink around, and excess squeexed out blue,
fared-off.

Its like the trick with inertia and (potentially safely) pulling the table
cloth from under a complete dinner service of crockery

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the elbowed lead and a whole cabinet falls over
with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with hotmelt
glue around the connector , heatshrink around, and excess squeezed-out glue,
fared-off.

On Feb 15, 3:21*pm, Jens Herrmann wrote:
Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
cable breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens
frequently and takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried
to find the coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but
all I could find was a plug like the one at the right side ofhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hohlstecker_und_Hohlbuchse_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?

Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann

The Acer One in my possession has a right-angle plug (about 2 yrs
old). Also I bought a new battery ($32) so I'm not using it with the
charger attached. (Possibly, eBay has a charger for it with a right-
ange?)

Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables is
a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be placed
in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like wheel
spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of equipment and
pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable or
jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up and
walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of accident-induced
damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not accidental damage (not
neccessarily what's going on with the OP's situation).

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the lead and a whole cabinet falls over with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out , if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power
lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with
hotmely
glue around the connector , heatchrink around, and excess squeexed out
blue,
fared-off.

On 2/16/2012 3:36 PM, Wild_Bill wrote:
Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables
is a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be
placed in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like
wheel spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of
equipment and pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable
or jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up
and walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of
accident-induced damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not
accidental damage (not neccessarily what's going on with the OP's
situation).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


Guess you don't have kids or pets or visitors.
You probably don't need insurance, cause you control all aspects of
your environment.

Wild_Bill wrote in message
...
Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables
is
a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be
placed
in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like
wheel
spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of equipment
and
pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable or
jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up and
walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of accident-induced
damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not accidental damage (not
neccessarily what's going on with the OP's situation).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the lead and a whole cabinet falls over with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out , if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power
lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with
hotmely
glue around the connector , heatchrink around, and excess squeexed out
blue,
fared-off.




An elfin safety probability thing. An elbow plug can never have its lead
yanked and cleanly come out , whatever angle the flex lies relative to the
jack , always a potential jamming angle, compared to a straight. There is
half a chance that a straight connector will have its flex near enough axial
to the jack and come out cleanly. I would never advise a guitarist to have
an elbow 1/4 inch jack on the amp end of his guitar lead (drunken drummers
careering about on stage etc)

On 2/17/2012 4:38 PM, N_Cook wrote:
wrote in message
...
Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables
is
a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be
placed
in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like
wheel
spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of equipment
and
pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable or
jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up and
walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of accident-induced
damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not accidental damage (not
neccessarily what's going on with the OP's situation).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


wrote in message
...

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the lead and a whole cabinet falls over with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out , if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power
lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with
hotmely
glue around the connector , heatchrink around, and excess squeexed out
blue,
fared-off.




An elfin safety probability thing. An elbow plug can never have its lead
yanked and cleanly come out , whatever angle the flex lies relative to the
jack , always a potential jamming angle, compared to a straight. There is
half a chance that a straight connector will have its flex near enough axial
to the jack and come out cleanly. I would never advise a guitarist to have
an elbow 1/4 inch jack on the amp end of his guitar lead (drunken drummers
careering about on stage etc)


Hey!! watch the language!! or there goes your next solo !! :-)

Rheilly P

On 02/16/2012 04:26 AM, mike wrote:
A cable has at least two conductors and several insulating layers.
EXACTLY what is breaking? Assume the plug is fine, 'cause you said
"cable". So, this is a wire problem...right???
Its the conductors braking all the time. As the plug is of the molded
type its not possible to resolder it in a decent way. Eventually I cut
off all the plastic from the plug, resoldered and wrapped some tape
around it.

Spring????
You can see the spring following the link posted by Colin:
http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part...ck-PL5525.html

Regards
Jens

On 2/17/2012 9:00 AM, Jens Herrmann wrote:
On 02/16/2012 04:26 AM, mike wrote:
A cable has at least two conductors and several insulating layers.
EXACTLY what is breaking? Assume the plug is fine, 'cause you said
"cable". So, this is a wire problem...right???
Its the conductors braking all the time. As the plug is of the molded
type its not possible to resolder it in a decent way. Eventually I cut
off all the plastic from the plug, resoldered and wrapped some tape
around it.

Spring????
You can see the spring following the link posted by Colin:
http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part...ck-PL5525.html


Regards
Jens

I don't see anything I'd call a spring?
Are you talking about the flexible part that's the strain relief?

Your wires break because you let the joint flex.
Probably breaks at the place where the solder meets the unsoldered part
of the wire.

If you expect it to last, you need to prevent movement.

What I do is go to radio shack and buy a plug.
Ream out the hole in the cover so it barely fits the wire.
Solder it all together.
Shove some hot melt glue in it and screw on the cap before
the glue hardens.

Another thing I've done is to start with a BIC-brand ball point pen
with the clear plastic. Can't be sure what they use now, but the
ones I have are easily molded using a heat gun to heat 'em up
and form the soft plastic where you want it to go.

Hot melt glue alone is a lot better than nothing. If you get some of
the hardening style hot melt, even better.

You MUST immobilize the wire at the connection, or it will break again.

If you expect it to last, you need to prevent movement.

Agreed. My experience has been that "strain relief" is more likely to
/cause/ the wire to break.

Funny that you would mention insurance, because that's exactly what extended
warranty plans* are supposedly intended for.. careless people who don't take
the time to locate cables where traffic won't snag them and damage their
gear.

*plans may exclude carelessness/abuse/stupidity, so it doesn't necessarily
guarantee repair or replacement, even though the salesperson implied/stated
that it would.

If I needed to insure my electronic gear, I wouldn't bother buying it.. and
my stuff has generally always lasted me for long beyond it's usefulness.

My first VOM still works fine (just put a fresh battery in it last week),
and it's from 1974.. which may be older than the poster making the
suggestions that my assertions are unrealistic?, inaccurate?

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"mike" wrote in message
...
On 2/16/2012 3:36 PM, Wild_Bill wrote:
Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables
is a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be
placed in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on
cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like
wheel spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of
equipment and pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable
or jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up
and walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of
accident-induced damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not
accidental damage (not neccessarily what's going on with the OP's
situation).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


Guess you don't have kids or pets or visitors.
You probably don't need insurance, cause you control all aspects of
your environment.