http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_20120109#slide=13
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...


http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_20120109#slide=13
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Hi Jeff, I did find one good use for the 5 volt mini usb phone chargers. The
wife bought some LED window candles this past Xmas, they use 3 "C" cells
_each_(!) So I used the phone charger to power all three of them in our
living room front windows. 30 minutes of work saved me a ton in battery
expense.
Tom

On Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:20:48 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_20120109#slide=13
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/wall-warts.jpg
Those are wall warts that are not attached to specific pieces of
equipment. The cardboard boxes on the right are full of sorted and
tested wall warts. There are two more boxes of wall warts that I
didn't feel like dragging over for the photo. Add another 4 large
boxes at home and a small box in the vehicle.

Time for a purge.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

I have a drawerful of them. Most are Sony 455s. * (Or is it 445? I never can
remember.)

The "obsolete" ones can come in handy. For example, a Sony 9V Discman supply
does a great job running my Brother label printer.

PS: Speaking of Brother labels... They're a great (though pricey) way to
label stuff, but they have an Achilles heel -- they simply won't stick to
polypropylene. (I've complained to Brother about this.) After a few minutes
on my trash can, or those nice plastic binders from Staples, they start
"unwinding". Magic Mending Tape is needed to hold them down.

The preceding is an example of free association.

* Sony produced an elegant little universal switching version of this
supply. I bought a box of 'em on eBay. I use one of them to power a pair of
STAX electrostatic earphones. (Really.)

On Jan 10, 6:54*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
I have a drawerful of them. Most are Sony 455s. * (Or is it 445? I never can
remember.)

The "obsolete" ones can come in handy. For example, a Sony 9V Discman supply
does a great job running my Brother label printer.

PS: Speaking of Brother labels... They're a great (though pricey) way to
label stuff, but they have an Achilles heel -- they simply won't stick to
polypropylene. (I've complained to Brother about this.) After a few minutes
on my trash can, or those nice plastic binders from Staples, they start
"unwinding". Magic Mending Tape is needed to hold them down.

The preceding is an example of free association.

* Sony produced an elegant little universal switching version of this
supply. I bought a box of 'em on eBay. I use one of them to power a pair of
STAX electrostatic earphones. (Really.)

I try to keep no more than 1 adapter of each voltage and sex even
though it kills me to throw extras out. We have an area-wide garage
sale each summer and I donate as much as I can to that, otherwise my
basement would sink even further into the ground.

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 04:54:10 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

I have a drawerful of them. Most are Sony 455s. * (Or is it 445? I never can
remember.)

The "obsolete" ones can come in handy. For example, a Sony 9V Discman supply
does a great job running my Brother label printer.

PS: Speaking of Brother labels... They're a great (though pricey) way to
label stuff, but they have an Achilles heel -- they simply won't stick to
polypropylene. (I've complained to Brother about this.) After a few minutes
on my trash can, or those nice plastic binders from Staples, they start
"unwinding". Magic Mending Tape is needed to hold them down.

The preceding is an example of free association.

Yeah, I noticed. Looks like your topic stabilizer circuit is drifting
out of control. The usual culprit is too much positive feedback and
agreement, which tends to destabilize any feedback circuit. With
enough positive feedback, it could easily become oscillatory, or latch
at either extreme position. I suggest you add some negative feedback
or criticism, which should prevent any further off topic excursions.
Also, be sure to check for cranial overheating which is a good
indication of bugs in the system.

* Sony produced an elegant little universal switching version of this
supply. I bought a box of 'em on eBay. I use one of them to power a pair of
STAX electrostatic earphones. (Really.)

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...


http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_20120109#slide=13
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.

Mark Z.

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.
Mark Z.

I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.
Mark Z.

I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Yeah - I know. Still a pain.

mz

On Jan 9, 6:20*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_2012...
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

On a slight tangent: Does anyone make a power strip with outlets
spaced to hold multiple wallwarts?

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:00:34 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.
Mark Z.

I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.

Yeah - I know. Still a pain.
mz

I feel your pain. I feel more pain when I throw away something that
can be repaired. When I visit the local recycler, I'm often shocked
at all the easily repairable stuff that gets tossed.

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along the
glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer. The glue joint is
quite brittle. With luck, you'll hear it crack open. If that fails,
a hack saw will always work. However, that's a mess to re-glue, and I
have to cover the damage with some decorative trim tape.

Mo
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/slides/Motorola-2210-02-PS.html
This time its a rather common Motorola 2210-02 DSL modem power supply.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:25:07 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
wrote:

On Jan 9, 6:20*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_2012...
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

On a slight tangent: Does anyone make a power strip with outlets
spaced to hold multiple wallwarts?

Su
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/wall-wart-01.html

Belkin makes a line of large, two row, power strips that should work.
There are also clones. One of them has a rotating power jack that
will work with either orientation wall wart plugs.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100663212/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I use these:
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=199275
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarcd/R-100663223/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
which are expensive, but also repairable and indestructable. I've had
plastic power strips almost catch fire when the MOV gets hot, and
therefore prefer metal cases. If you need to fit a strange wall wart,
just add one of the numerous right angle or 6 jack adapters.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"spamtrap1888" wrote in message
...

Does anyone make a power strip with outlets spaced
to hold multiple wallwarts?


Cyberguys sells an "extendable" power strip (112 0179) and a PowerSquid (121
1275 & 121 1291).

http://www.cyberguys.com/product-det...oss=SEARCH_SKU

http://www.cyberguys.com/product-det...oss=SEARCH_SKU

http://www.cyberguys.com/product-det...oss=SEARCH_SKU


You can also get cheap AC extender cables.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

If you have not yet discovered Monoprice, do so. It has all kinds of
cheap-but-good stuff.

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.

What about Dremel cut-off disks?

(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:06:34 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:00:34 -0600, "Mark Zacharias" wrote":
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote:
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias" wrote:

Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.

I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.

Yeah - I know. Still a pain.

I feel your pain. I feel more pain when I throw away something that
can be repaired. When I visit the local recycler, I'm often shocked
at all the easily repairable stuff that gets tossed.

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along the
glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer. The glue joint is
quite brittle. With luck, you'll hear it crack open. If that fails,
a hack saw will always work. However, that's a mess to re-glue, and I
have to cover the damage with some decorative trim tape.

Always check under any paper or mylar label for a recessed screw holding
the clam shell halves together.

Too, placing the wall wart in a freezer for 10-15 minutes will make the
solvent-glued seam even more brittle and readily crack-able-open-able.
I employ a used 3/4" wood chisel bought at a second-hand store -- found
in the ever present used-and-abused tools bins.

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:41:16 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
.. .

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.

What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)

I've used those. A few problems. The big one for me is that the disk
often turns into a mini fragmentation bomb, spraying disk parts
everywhere. Just twist the tool even slightly, and it will break the
disk. I wear safety glasses *AND* a face shield when I use a hand
grinder or Dremel tool.

Another problem is a tendency to cut too deep, resulting in component
damage. The hack saw has the same problem, but I can usually feel
when I've broken through. There's also a problem of going to slowly
and melting the plastic case instead of cutting it. Lastly, I don't
like cleaning up the mess from the Dremel. It creates a fine abrasive
dust over a wide area, while the hack saw just creates comparatively
larger plastic dust over a smaller area.

One trick I've used is with an ultrasonic scaler.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ultrasonic+scaler
These are normally used to chip off plaque from teeth, but work
equally well cracking the glue line on wall warts. I use a tip shaped
like a small spatula. The down side is that the ultrasonics are fully
capable of breaking the wire bonds inside some chips and xsistors.
I've only had one such failure, but it pays to be careful with this
method.

I just watched some really awful YouTube videos on power supply and
charger repair. Everything from beat on it with a hammer to using a
hot knife. You're on your own if you want to experiment.

On the other foot, there are some wall warts which just will not
cooperate. One memorable failure was after pounding on the case
repeatedly, and resorting to the hack saw, it still would not come
apart. In frustration, I cracked the plastic case, only to find that
it had two screws hidden under the label. I just hate it when that
happens.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote in
:

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:41:16 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
. ..

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.

What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)

I've used those. A few problems. The big one for me is that the disk
often turns into a mini fragmentation bomb, spraying disk parts
everywhere.

use the fiberglass reinforced discs,or the heavy-duty discs.
You can also find small diameter sawblades for the Dremel,very thin kerf.

Just twist the tool even slightly, and it will break the
disk. I wear safety glasses *AND* a face shield when I use a hand
grinder or Dremel tool.

Another problem is a tendency to cut too deep, resulting in component
damage. The hack saw has the same problem, but I can usually feel
when I've broken through. There's also a problem of going to slowly
and melting the plastic case instead of cutting it. Lastly, I don't
like cleaning up the mess from the Dremel. It creates a fine abrasive
dust over a wide area, while the hack saw just creates comparatively
larger plastic dust over a smaller area.

I LOVE my Dremel. (OLD model 270,no built-in speed control)
I have a speed controller made from a lamp dimmer and junction box,with a
duplex outlet tha thte Dremel plugs into.It makes the Dremel much more
versatile.

maybe one of the new oscillating multifunction tools,HF was selling one for
$20,but cutter discs are extra. they cut slow.


One trick I've used is with an ultrasonic scaler.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ultrasonic+scaler
These are normally used to chip off plaque from teeth, but work
equally well cracking the glue line on wall warts. I use a tip shaped
like a small spatula. The down side is that the ultrasonics are fully
capable of breaking the wire bonds inside some chips and xsistors.
I've only had one such failure, but it pays to be careful with this
method.

I just watched some really awful YouTube videos on power supply and
charger repair. Everything from beat on it with a hammer to using a
hot knife. You're on your own if you want to experiment.

On the other foot, there are some wall warts which just will not
cooperate. One memorable failure was after pounding on the case
repeatedly, and resorting to the hack saw, it still would not come
apart. In frustration, I cracked the plastic case, only to find that
it had two screws hidden under the label. I just hate it when that
happens.




checking under labels for screws is the first thing I do,although I hate
messing up the labels.

Oh,and instead of a hacksaw,try a X-acto "razor" saw,they have blades with
very fine kerfs,fits into a large X-acto handle. Hobby stores should have
them,there's 3 different blades,with various teeth/inch.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:52:05 -0600, Jim Yanik
wrote:

use the fiberglass reinforced discs,or the heavy-duty discs.

I'll look into those. Sounds interesting.

You can also find small diameter sawblades for the Dremel,very thin kerf.

Bad idea. I tried those. If I just lightly hit the transformer or
shield inside a typical laptop power supply, the blade becomes
instantly dull. One mistake and it's time to buy a new saw blade. No
thanks.

checking under labels for screws is the first thing I do,although I hate
messing up the labels.

That's why I usually don't check first.

Oh,and instead of a hacksaw,try a X-acto "razor" saw,they have blades with
very fine kerfs,fits into a large X-acto handle. Hobby stores should have
them,there's 3 different blades,with various teeth/inch.

Hmmm... I haven't tried those. Looks promising.
http://www.xacto.com/Product/X75300

I did try a narrow coping saw. It worked but the blade was too easily
bent into an arc. A hack saw blade won't do that.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:00:34 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.
Mark Z.

I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.

Yeah - I know. Still a pain.
mz

I feel your pain. I feel more pain when I throw away something that
can be repaired. When I visit the local recycler, I'm often shocked
at all the easily repairable stuff that gets tossed.

One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along the
glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer. The glue joint is
quite brittle. With luck, you'll hear it crack open. If that fails,
a hack saw will always work. However, that's a mess to re-glue, and I
have to cover the damage with some decorative trim tape.


Here is a tiny table saw that would give you a fixed depth & straight
cut:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 01:05:26 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Here is a tiny table saw that would give you a fixed depth & straight
cut:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html

Cute. That might work. I have a 3.375" dia blade on my Makita 5090D
http://media.toolking.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/i/circ_4.jpg
which also has adjustable cut depth. Clamp the wall wart in a bench
vice, set the cut depth, and try to cut in a straight line. Looks
like the mini table saw has the advantage of a rip fence. Still,
cutting a straight line may be a problem with odd shaped wall warts.

Incidentally, when I cut with a hack saw, I try NOT to cut all the way
through the plastic. The joint usually consists of two overlapping
plastic tongues. It's only necessary to cut through the upper tongue
in order to break the joint. That also leaves a neat grove with which
to fill for reassembling the wall wart.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_wart

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
(...)

This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html
What a waste.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Monday, January 9, 2012 7:13:00 PM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:20:48 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

Those are wall warts that are not attached to specific pieces of
equipment. The cardboard boxes on the right are full of sorted and
tested wall warts. There are two more boxes ... another 4 large
boxes at home and a small box in the vehicle.

Time for a purge.

NO! The first one you discard, is the next one you need!
.... nothing but an original unit will ever connect to some
devices (my old HP-34C calculator comes to mind).

Sorting by output voltage, though, would improve the utility
of the boxes. And you can paint those boxes in bright colors
so they do double duty as decoration...

spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Jan 9, 6:20 pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_2012...
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.

On a slight tangent: Does anyone make a power strip with outlets
spaced to hold multiple wallwarts?

I have some older Curtis strips with top and two sides with outlets, surge
and filtering. The only thing that remotely resembles them is these...

http://gizmodo.com/once-upon-a-time/

Greg

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
(...)

This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html
What a waste.


years ago, i would have taken a mess like that to a hamfest and sold
all of it. I currently have about 500 warts & external power supplies,
sorted by voltage. I picked up several hundred at one hamfest, from a
silent key's widow. I had to come home and get my trailer, to haul off
everything I picked up, that day. I used to trash pick after the Dayton
hamfest every year and could fill my long wheelbase van with no
problem. I'd take damaged or dead equipment that either looked
repairable, or was worth salvaging. Once, it was close to a ton of
power transformers, for the copper.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 13:31:20 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
(...)

This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html
What a waste.


years ago, i would have taken a mess like that to a hamfest and sold
all of it. I currently have about 500 warts & external power supplies,
sorted by voltage. I picked up several hundred at one hamfest, from a
silent key's widow. I had to come home and get my trailer, to haul off
everything I picked up, that day. I used to trash pick after the Dayton
hamfest every year and could fill my long wheelbase van with no
problem. I'd take damaged or dead equipment that either looked
repairable, or was worth salvaging. Once, it was close to a ton of
power transformers, for the copper.

I spent my first 50 years collecting all that junk. I plan to spend
the next 50 years getting rid of it.

Here's my pile in the office:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/wall-warts.jpg
The boxes to the right are full of more wall warts. There are also
two more big boxes in the closet, several boxes of just power cords,
and about 5 more boxes of wall warts at home. Time for a purge.

The local recycler clips off the power cords from the wall warts. The
transformer and copper windings are classified at "mixed metal waste"
for which they get about $175/ton (2000 lbs). The copper cords yield
about $65/lb.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558