The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

In article
,
klem kedidelhopper wrote:

The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

Lots of troubleshooting guides on the net, but the easiest thing to try
first is a 24 hour defrost.

In article
,
Smitty Two wrote:

Lots of troubleshooting guides on the net, but the easiest thing to try
first is a 24 hour defrost.

Klem-

If the 24 hour defrost appears to clear your problem, you may find it
was caused by failure of the automatic defrost.

I had a Frigidaire refrigerator with a defrost timer whose motor stopped
in defrost mode. If yours works like mine, its motor may have stopped
in refrigeration mode, causing a buildup of frost.

My defrost timer was available at a local appliance parts dealer, and
was easy to change.

Fred

klem kedidelhopper wrote in news:dd664d3b-
:

The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny


Could be failure of defrost system, even if compressor is running. You can
check by removing the cover in the back of the freezer section, if that is
how you get to the freezer coill thingies, the aluminium bits.

This causes the ice that is there to slow the flow of air from the fans to
the fridge compartments. Next step is to find out why, if this is
happening.

On Apr 10, 10:08*pm, Geoff wrote:
klem kedidelhopper wrote in news:dd664d3b-
:

The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

Could be failure of defrost system, even if compressor is running. You can
check by removing the cover in the back of the freezer section, if that is
how you get to the freezer coill thingies, the aluminium bits.

This causes the ice that is there to slow the flow of air from the fans to
the fridge compartments. Next step is to find out why, if this is
happening.

My Maytag uses an electronic "Adaptive Defrost Controller". This PC
board is located in the upper right of the refridgerator compartment
and ceased working a couple of years ago with the exact symptoms
described by the OP. I had a tech come in and replace it [$150] but
kept the old one to see what had happened. It turned out that the bulk
filter cap [22uF 50V electrolytic] had gone high ESR, so I replaced it
with a new high ripple cap and put the board away. A week or so ago I
heard a buzzing like a chattering relay from the 'fridge and went a
pressed on the panel in the freezer that covers the evaporator and
felt frost on the coil so I guessed that the replacement board cap was
failing. I went on line to find the instruction on how to access that
board in my model and took it out and to the bench. Indeed tha same
cap was high ESR, so I replaced it and then reinstalled the board into
the 'fridge. Total time from start to finish of the removal, repair
and re-installation was about 30 minutes. Problem seems to be
resolved. So, if you have the same board [it seems to be used across
many brands], you should not need to spend $43 for a new one, just
replace the 22u cap with a better quality one.
Neil S.

On Apr 11, 11:53*am, nesesu wrote:
On Apr 10, 10:08*pm, Geoff wrote:



klem kedidelhopper wrote in news:dd664d3b-
:

The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

Could be failure of defrost system, even if compressor is running. You can
check by removing the cover in the back of the freezer section, if that is
how you get to the freezer coill thingies, the aluminium bits.

This causes the ice that is there to slow the flow of air from the fans to
the fridge compartments. Next step is to find out why, if this is
happening.

My Maytag uses an electronic "Adaptive Defrost Controller". This PC
board is located in the upper right of the refridgerator compartment
and ceased working a couple of years ago with the exact symptoms
described by the OP. I had a tech come in and replace it [$150] but
kept the old one to see what had happened. It turned out that the bulk
filter cap [22uF 50V electrolytic] had gone high ESR, so I replaced it
with a new high ripple cap and put the board away. A week or so ago I
heard a buzzing like a chattering relay from the 'fridge and went a
pressed on the panel in the freezer that covers the evaporator and
felt frost on the coil so I guessed that the replacement board cap was
failing. I went on line to find the instruction on how to access that
board in my model and took it out and to the bench. Indeed tha same
cap was high ESR, so I replaced it and then reinstalled the board into
the 'fridge. Total time from start to finish of the removal, repair
and re-installation was about 30 minutes. Problem seems to be
resolved. So, if you have the same board [it seems to be used across
many brands], you should not need to spend $43 for a new one, just
replace the 22u cap with a better quality one.
Neil S.
Hi everyone
Thank you to everyone who has responded and nice of you to once again
get involved in another one of my problems Neil.
I'm trying to figure out where this board, if my machine uses the
adaptive defrost controller might be on my model..When you open the
refrigerator door and look up sort of on the frame there is this
rectangular panel with separate freezer and refrigerator soft push
button controls The book recommends "4" for each section. Right now we
have the fridge set at 6 and the freezer which my wife set up all the
way is now set back to 4.The fridge runs between 40 and 45 and the
freezer is running at 45 as well. So the fridge is almost OK but we
lost the frozen stuff. My problem is that I don't really understand
the theory behind the operation of this machine so its very hard for
me to try to fix it. I think of thermostats as two wire devices not a
board. And unlike my old GE that came with a service manual and lasted
22 years,(it was still working when I donated it to the Boy Scouts
because my wife complained about the rust on the bottom) I have no
service or even parts layout for this thing.
Can anyone shed any light on the theory part and information perhaps
on where these parts might be located. Thanks, Lenny

On Apr 11, 5:20*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:
On Apr 11, 11:53*am, nesesu wrote:



On Apr 10, 10:08*pm, Geoff wrote:

klem kedidelhopper wrote in news:dd664d3b-
:

The refrigerator section is running at about 46 degrees and the
freezer is at 42. We cleaned all the dust out of the back and there
doesn't seem to be any improvement. I am an electronics technician
however I don't know too much about refrigerators. All the food is
spoiling and I' hope that someone can please point me in the right
direction to troubleshoot this thing. We had a GE for 22 years and
against my better judgment had to get rid of it because my wife didn't
like the rust on the bottom. Now we're stuck with this non functioning
pos. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

Could be failure of defrost system, even if compressor is running. You can
check by removing the cover in the back of the freezer section, if that is
how you get to the freezer coill thingies, the aluminium bits.

This causes the ice that is there to slow the flow of air from the fans to
the fridge compartments. Next step is to find out why, if this is
happening.

My Maytag uses an electronic "Adaptive Defrost Controller". This PC
board is located in the upper right of the refridgerator compartment
and ceased working a couple of years ago with the exact symptoms
described by the OP. I had a tech come in and replace it [$150] but
kept the old one to see what had happened. It turned out that the bulk
filter cap [22uF 50V electrolytic] had gone high ESR, so I replaced it
with a new high ripple cap and put the board away. A week or so ago I
heard a buzzing like a chattering relay from the 'fridge and went a
pressed on the panel in the freezer that covers the evaporator and
felt frost on the coil so I guessed that the replacement board cap was
failing. I went on line to find the instruction on how to access that
board in my model and took it out and to the bench. Indeed tha same
cap was high ESR, so I replaced it and then reinstalled the board into
the 'fridge. Total time from start to finish of the removal, repair
and re-installation was about 30 minutes. Problem seems to be
resolved. So, if you have the same board [it seems to be used across
many brands], you should not need to spend $43 for a new one, just
replace the 22u cap with a better quality one.
Neil S.

Hi everyone
Thank you to everyone who has responded and nice of you to once again
get involved in another one of my problems Neil.
I'm trying to figure out where this board, if my machine uses the
adaptive defrost controller might be on my model..When you open the
refrigerator door and look up sort of on the frame there is this
rectangular panel with *separate freezer and refrigerator soft push
button controls The book recommends "4" for each section. Right now we
have the fridge set at 6 and the freezer which my wife set up all the
way is now set back to 4.The fridge runs between 40 and 45 and the
freezer is running at 45 as well. So the fridge is almost OK but we
lost the frozen stuff. My problem is that I don't really understand
the theory behind the operation of this machine so its very hard for
me to try to fix it. I think of thermostats as two wire devices not a
board. And unlike my old GE that came with a service manual and lasted
22 years,(it was still working when I donated it to the Boy Scouts
because my wife complained about the rust on the bottom) I have no
service or even parts layout for this thing.
Can anyone shed any light on the theory part and information perhaps
on where these parts might be located. Thanks, Lenny- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Basically, a two section type refrigerator has the refrigeration
system consisting of a compressor, a condenser outside the box to
condense the high pressure Freon into a liquid state by radiating the
heat, a capilliary to control the flow of liquid to the evaporator and
an evaporator inside the box [usually the freezer section or betwixt
the freezer and 'fridge sections] that does the actual cooling, and
some fans. In my side by side the evaporator is behind a panel in the
back of the freezer. The evaporator is very cold when running so it
accumulates any moisture in the inside air as frost on the fins, and
since it is located in the freezer, that frost will never melt on it's
own. To get rid of the frost there is a heater [usually a flexible
cable], of typically about 500W, around the evaporator and this is
turned on about every 24 hours to melt the frost and the water runs
down into a tray outside under the unit where heat from the condenser
evaporates it into the room air.
If the frost is not removed regularly, airflow is blocked through the
evaporator and proper cooling of the 'fridge/freezer stops.

Have a look at this site and see if it has information on your unit.
The link is to the adaptive controller for my fridge along with a
video of how to access it. Look for similar info on yur model.
http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail...&SourceCode=12

Good luck!
Neil S.

On Sun, 10 Apr 2011 16:42:38 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
put finger to keyboard and composed:

FWIW, here are service manuals for LG fridges sold on the Australian
market:
http://www.jordansmanuals.com/Defaul...New%20F older

Exploded diagrams and parts lists for your model series:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...-model/LBN2251

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.