Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.

Lab1 .@... wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why
it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts
between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on
my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.



The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised a
stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK and
Japanese kit

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Lab1 .@... wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why
it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts
between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets
on
my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.



The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised a
stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK
and
Japanese kit



I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked for
a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a big
difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a thread
that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what size
they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being funny,
"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the boss's
office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking that
it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and had
called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
same language ... :-)

Arfa

On 1/19/2011 1:00 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:

I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
for a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there
was a big difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the
much more direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the
designers of a piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked
the guy if he could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as
they were a thread that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I
knew exactly what size they were so I replied, quick as a flash,
thinking that I was being funny, "I guess that they are round about
3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
boss's office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this,
thinking that it was a slur on what he considered to be good American
engineering, and had called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to
show how easily offence can be caused between nations, even when they
speak what's basically the same language ... :-)

While on vacation in the Dominican Republic we ran into a really nice
group from the UK who were there for a wedding. We would hang out and
talk with them down at the in-pool bar almost every evening. I never
quite got used to them asking me to bum a fag. I'm from the US and I
smoke cigarettes, not fags.

--
-Scott

Lab1 wrote:


I'm from the US and I smoke cigarettes, not fags.


Michael Terrell's from the US and he smokes fags, not cigarettes.

I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
for
a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a
big
difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
thread
that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what size
they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being funny,
"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
boss's
office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
that
it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and
had
called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
same language ... :-)

It's hard /not/ to interpret such a description as an intentional insult. I
can't imagine what it actually means -- in any innocuous sense, anyway.

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...
I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
for
a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a
big
difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
thread
that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what
size
they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being
funny,
"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
boss's
office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
that
it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and
had
called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
same language ... :-)

It's hard /not/ to interpret such a description as an intentional insult.
I
can't imagine what it actually means -- in any innocuous sense, anyway.



There ya go then ! Anyone from the UK would see it as a quick-fire
throw-away line, and would laugh at it. It's sort of intended to be
'barbed', but not in a malicious way. It's a very hard to describe form of
humour that is quite prevalent over here.

Arfa

On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 18:00:17 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:



"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Lab1 .@... wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why
it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts
between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets
on
my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.



The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised a
stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK
and
Japanese kit



I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked for
a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a big
difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a thread
that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what size
they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being funny,
"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the boss's
office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking that
it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and had
called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
same language ... :-)

Arfa


I think it matters in what part of the U.S. this person resided. I'm
originally from the North East and humor that would be considered mild
there is considered a great affront to some people in the South.
However, racist remarks, that I find offensive, don't seem to bother
their delicate constitutions. Chuck

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 18:00:17 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
wrote:



"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Lab1 .@... wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure
why
it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts
between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets
on
my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.



The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised
a
stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK
and
Japanese kit



I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
for
a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a
big
difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
thread
that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what size
they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being funny,
"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
asked. "American **** Fit", said I ...

Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
boss's
office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
that
it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and
had
called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
same language ... :-)

Arfa


I think it matters in what part of the U.S. this person resided. I'm
originally from the North East and humor that would be considered mild
there is considered a great affront to some people in the South.
However, racist remarks, that I find offensive, don't seem to bother
their delicate constitutions. Chuck

He was in sunny Caffy-lornia ... Costa Mesa in Orange County, a few miles
down the Interstate from LA

Arfa

On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:39:09 -0000, N_Cook wrote:

The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised a
stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK and
Japanese kit

Here in the colonies, whenever I have a piece of unrepairable Made in
Japan, Made in Tiawan, Made in Korea kit, or Made in China POS that is
going to the landfill, I use some of my 'mental health' time to
disassemble the thing and toss all the screws, nuts, washers, shaft nuts
and washers, etc. into a bank of 'metric' jelly jars.
WFM

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised
a stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit.

Have a look in a classic car mag. A few companies sell selections of UNF
and UNC nuts and bolts. Or sell individually.

--
*Proofread carefully to see if you any words out or mispeld something *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised
a stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit.

Have a look in a classic car mag. A few companies sell selections of UNF
and UNC nuts and bolts. Or sell individually.

--
*Proofread carefully to see if you any words out or mispeld something *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


This is a useful resource near me, stainless steel only and tend to be
larger sizes.
One man band , now internet only but no minimum order so worth bookmarking.
http://www.a2a4.com/acatalog/
Last time I talked to him, late 2010, he mentioned he was starting a range
of "classic car" nuts and bolts , whatever that is, cannot find mention on
his site though

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Last time I talked to him, late 2010, he mentioned he was starting a
range of "classic car" nuts and bolts , whatever that is, cannot find
mention on his site though

In the UK, modern cars use metric threads. Ones from about after WW2 to
the '80s mainly UNF and UNC. Pre WW2 BSW and BSF. BA was common for
electrical stuff.

A classic car is really just any which isn't recent and not defined under
the strict headings of vintage etc. It isn't restricted to any make - just
over 20 years old. Although that age isn't agreed by everyone.

--
*Work like you don't need the money. Love like you've never been hurt.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Lab1 wrote:

On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.


Can't afford $5 for a set of security bits?


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On 1/19/2011 2:50 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Lab1 wrote:

On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.


Can't afford $5 for a set of security bits?

Yes, but given the frequency that I run into those I find my punch set
and hammer tend to do the trick - security torx to just torx!


--
-Scott

Lab1 wrote:

On 1/19/2011 2:50 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Lab1 wrote:

On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.

Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.

One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.


Can't afford $5 for a set of security bits?

Yes, but given the frequency that I run into those I find my punch set
and hammer tend to do the trick - security torx to just torx!


As long as there is no liability involved. If someone else opens it
with a 'just torx' tool and is hurt or killed, you could be sued. I
just carry the security tools in my toolbox and and ready for a loot of
different hardware. I even keep Posidrive in the same toolbox.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it
is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between.
I
always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on
my
clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.



Me and white heatsink goo have a very bad working relationship. I only have
to walk into the workshop when there's something on the bench using it, and
all of a sudden, I'm covered in the rotten stuff, without even going near
the bench. At least it seems that way ... :-\

Arfa

Poodles.

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Poodles.

Puddles. Under Poodles. ;-)


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

Packing peanuts.

Probe slips.

People begging me to work on stuff which I used to turn away, but now have
to take in because business is slow.

Mark Z.

On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 05:29:16 -0600 "Mark Zacharias"
wrote in Message id:
om:

Packing peanuts.

There's a good one. Especially when the humidity is very low, and the
peanuts are all broken up in pieces!

JW wrote:

On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 05:29:16 -0600 "Mark Zacharias"
wrote in Message id:
om:

Packing peanuts.

There's a good one. Especially when the humidity is very low, and the
peanuts are all broken up in pieces!


Low humidity is rarely a problem in Florida.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...

JW wrote:

On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 05:29:16 -0600 "Mark Zacharias"
wrote in Message id:
om:

Packing peanuts.

There's a good one. Especially when the humidity is very low, and the
peanuts are all broken up in pieces!


Low humidity is rarely a problem in Florida.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


Yeah.. One time I was going to paint something. The can of spray paint said
to only use it in 50% or less humidity. I laughed when I read that and
thought there must be less than 20 days a year that would have low enough
humidity to paint this thing..

"Mark Zacharias" wrote in message
eb.com...
Packing peanuts.

Probe slips.

People begging me to work on stuff which I used to turn away, but now have
to take in because business is slow.

Mark Z.

Yep. Amen to that one ...

Arfa

heat sink goop

cars with both metric and english fasteners

bristol spline srews

Ron D. wrote in message
...
heat sink goop

cars with both metric and english fasteners

bristol spline srews


Could you describe a "bristol spline screw" Google-images no help other than
they are used on 30KV rated relays

N_Cook wrote:

Ron D. wrote in message
...
heat sink goop

cars with both metric and english fasteners

bristol spline srews

Could you describe a "bristol spline screw" Google-images no help other than
they are used on 30KV rated relays


Bristol was used in electronic equipment build by the US during
W.W.-II.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench, almost half way down the page.

http://www.bristolwrench.com/ still makes them.

http://www.bristolwrench.com/spline.pdf

They are availible from a lot of industrial tool dealers.

A lot of people called them 'Spline Wrenches' instead of Bristol
Wrenches.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 14:54:35 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not
sure why it is even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact
and bolts between. I always wipe away with paper etc on first parting
but always some gets on my clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for
many a year.

Overuse of that stuff is worse for thermal conductivity than none at all.
I've clean up gobs of it since they started using it decades ago.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On 1/19/2011 2:25 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive surfaces.

Overuse of that stuff is worse for thermal conductivity than none at all.
I've clean up gobs of it since they started using it decades ago.

This is something I'm currently wondering about. I have a fridge-like
thermo-electric cooler than has two sections, top and bottom, with
different temperatures. The top suddenly stopped getting cool at all, so
I took it apart to figure out why. The fans and voltages were all there
so I broke down the heat sinks on the bad one to get to the Peltier
device. With it isolated, I powered it up briefly and much to my
surprise the Peltier device got hot real quickly with the opposite side
getting cooler. So the device works, it has to be something with the
heat sinks?
They did use white goop on both sides, but very little and it was
already dried. The heat sinks are milled flat where they make contact
with the Peltier device, so my thinking is they need new goop.
Looking around I found that Star heat sink compound is about the best
you can get, so I ordered some. It just arrived the other day so I'm
planning to clean up the old goop, put on some new goop and hope for the
best. I don't think too much would be an issue in this case, I want it
as cold as possible.





--
-Scott

"Lab1" .@... wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2011 2:25 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive surfaces.

Overuse of that stuff is worse for thermal conductivity than none at all.
I've clean up gobs of it since they started using it decades ago.

This is something I'm currently wondering about. I have a fridge-like
thermo-electric cooler than has two sections, top and bottom, with
different temperatures. The top suddenly stopped getting cool at all, so I
took it apart to figure out why. The fans and voltages were all there so I
broke down the heat sinks on the bad one to get to the Peltier device.
With it isolated, I powered it up briefly and much to my surprise the
Peltier device got hot real quickly with the opposite side getting cooler.
So the device works, it has to be something with the heat sinks?
They did use white goop on both sides, but very little and it was already
dried. The heat sinks are milled flat where they make contact with the
Peltier device, so my thinking is they need new goop.
Looking around I found that Star heat sink compound is about the best you
can get, so I ordered some. It just arrived the other day so I'm planning
to clean up the old goop, put on some new goop and hope for the best. I
don't think too much would be an issue in this case, I want it as cold as
possible.





--
-Scott



Too much of the stuff will be a problem whether you are trying to heat or
cool. I have some major doubts that a thin coating of that stuff would be
enough to make any major difference in the performance of peteler junction.
Now on the other hand, if the heatsink is loose... That could give you some
real issues.

In article ,
Michael Kennedy mike@com wrote:

They did use white goop on both sides, but very little and it was already
dried. The heat sinks are milled flat where they make contact with the
Peltier device, so my thinking is they need new goop.

Too much of the stuff will be a problem whether you are trying to heat or
cool. I have some major doubts that a thin coating of that stuff would be
enough to make any major difference in the performance of peteler junction.
Now on the other hand, if the heatsink is loose... That could give you some
real issues.

Michael is quite correct.

The thing about heatsink compound, is that you should only use a
*very* thin layer, and use it between surfaces which are already flat
and well-fitting. Adding a thicker layer of heatsink compound than is
necessary, will actually reduce thermal conductivity.

You want as much direct metal-to-metal or metal-to-ceramic contact as
you can get - enthusiasts who "overclock" their PCs will often flatten
and polish the top of the CPU and the bottom of the heatsink to
increase direct contact. A *thin* smear of heatsink compound is
appropriate... just enough to fill the remaining gaps between the
heatsink and the heat-sunk :-). You almost want to smear it on, and
then wipe most of it off gently with a single-edged razor blade, so
that there is no excess buildup between the two surfaces.

And, yes, if the heatsink actually comes loose from the Peltier
junction (e.g. if it was originally spring-clipped in place, and the
clips are loose or have fatigued and lost pressure) then you've got
problems... you'll get a layer of air between the two surfaces, and
thermal conductivity will become quite poor. Adding a thicker layer
of goop to try to fill the gap isn't the right thing to do - instead,
fix whatever caused the devices to become loose, clean the surfaces,
reapply a *thin* layer of compound, and secure the devices back
together with the proper amount of pressure.

If there was (apparently) nothing holding the two surfaces together -
no clips or retainers - then you're probably dealing with a "thermally
conductive adhesive". Some of these are good, some are poor... and
you'll have to strip off all of the remains, and then reapply (again)
a very thin layer of a suitable thermal adhesive, and fasten the parts
back together with appropriate pressure until the adhesive cures.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

On 1/20/2011 2:03 AM, Dave Platt wrote:

And, yes, if the heatsink actually comes loose from the Peltier
junction (e.g. if it was originally spring-clipped in place, and the
clips are loose or have fatigued and lost pressure) then you've got
problems... you'll get a layer of air between the two surfaces, and
thermal conductivity will become quite poor. Adding a thicker layer
of goop to try to fill the gap isn't the right thing to do - instead,
fix whatever caused the devices to become loose, clean the surfaces,
reapply a *thin* layer of compound, and secure the devices back
together with the proper amount of pressure.

I agree. The assembly goes like this:
Small heat sink (cold side) - square plastic gasket with embedded rubber
seal that doesn't physically touch anything - square block of Styrofoam
with a square cutout in the middle - Peltier device - foam tape around
the styrofoam - large heat sink. To screws go through everything on
either side of the Peltier to sandwich it all together.
And oddly they hot-glued the ends of the screws and nuts.

This is obviously made in China, everything is pretty crudely
manufactured and assembled, heat sink fins were mashed together in
spots. I didn't think to check the tightness of those two screws when I
took it apart, but I bet you are right and they weren't nearly tight
enough. I'm going to rebuild the 2nd one while I'm at it and will check
the tightness after I pry off all the hot glue...


--
-Scott

On Jan 19, 6:54*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces.

Worse, hotmelt glue or cyanoacrylate on a solder joint. Hit it with
the iron,
and the tip seems like it'll NEVER get clean again.

On 1/19/2011 5:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Jan 19, 6:54 am, wrote:
Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
surfaces.

Worse, hotmelt glue or cyanoacrylate on a solder joint. Hit it with
the iron,
and the tip seems like it'll NEVER get clean again.

Oh yeah, GM delco car radios, IMPOSSIBLE to work on those circuit boards
due to some resin/glue coating on everything.

--
-Scott

"Nutcase Kook "

Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
conductive
surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it
is
even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between.


** Err - because there are always large areas between fasteners that have
air gaps.

I always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on
my
clothing


** When you separate the metal parts - cover them both with " Glad Wrap".

It later peels off easily and leaves almost all the white grease behind.

Anyone here remember the Bose 1800 /1801 amplifiers ??

Discovered this trick when servicing those horrible POS.



...... Phil

On 19/01/2011 23:05, Phil Allison wrote:


Anyone here remember the Bose 1800 /1801 amplifiers ??


Remember them! I've still got one, still works too. Not that I would use
it for anything other than a door stop mind.

Ron