Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD

When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any buttons.
No lights, no fan, no sound.
It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
this.

It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard. There's
a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets dangling on
wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of connectors. Could
the grease cause the connectors to fail?

I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers, lights,
fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the controller board
is where I want to start debugging since it houses the LCD display and hooks
up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get the controller board's
schematic?

BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by a
do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this device
should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get personal?

On Fri, 15 Oct 2010 10:56:04 -0700, james wrote:

Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD

When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any
buttons. No lights, no fan, no sound.
It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
this.

Uh Huh.

It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard.
There's a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets
dangling on wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of
connectors. Could the grease cause the connectors to fail?

Yep

I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers,
lights, fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the
controller board is where I want to start debugging since it houses the
LCD display and hooks up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get
the controller board's schematic?

Controllers are usually replaced not serviced.

BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by
a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this
device should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get
personal?


Because your health depends on you knowing what you are doing. What price
are you willing to see yourself and others possibly pay for a more
friendly message?


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
person". But why get personal?

"I don't get no respect!"

Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
other electronic components.

On Oct 15, 1:37*pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
person". But why get personal?

"I don't get no respect!"

Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
other electronic components.

I would suggest some naptha and a soft brush to dissolve the grease
and clean the board. Do NOT use soap and /or water!!!! After
everything looks clean and nice, let it sit overnoght before you plug
it back in. That gives time for things to dry out reasonably well.

wrote in message
...
On Oct 15, 1:37 pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
person". But why get personal?

"I don't get no respect!"

Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
other electronic components.

I would suggest some naptha and a soft brush to dissolve the grease
and clean the board. Do NOT use soap and /or water!!!! After
everything looks clean and nice, let it sit overnoght before you plug
it back in. That gives time for things to dry out reasonably well.

Surely, the most fundamental first move is to take a meter to the power
supply, and see if there is at least some supply to the system control micro
etc ? The fact that it's covered in grease may well be neither here nor
there as far as the fault goes. Oils and greases are not known for being
particularly conductive or corrosive. Dead is a positive problem, and one to
which basic faultfinding techniques should be first applied, before going
off on an 'if-then-maybe' exercise ...

Arfa

Surely, the most fundamental first move is to take a meter to the power
supply, and see if there is at least some supply to the system control
micro etc ? The fact that it's covered in grease may well be neither here
nor there as far as the fault goes. Oils and greases are not known for
being particularly conductive or corrosive. Dead is a positive problem,
and one to which basic faultfinding techniques should be first applied,
before going off on an 'if-then-maybe' exercise ...

I'd normally agree, but the fact the unit /slowly/ declined suggests that
something other than a voltage loss is going on.

Of course, it takes just a few seconds to check the voltages. Couldn't hurt.

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...
Surely, the most fundamental first move is to take a meter to the power
supply, and see if there is at least some supply to the system control
micro etc ? The fact that it's covered in grease may well be neither here
nor there as far as the fault goes. Oils and greases are not known for
being particularly conductive or corrosive. Dead is a positive problem,
and one to which basic faultfinding techniques should be first applied,
before going off on an 'if-then-maybe' exercise ...

I'd normally agree, but the fact the unit /slowly/ declined suggests that
something other than a voltage loss is going on.


Well, not really. Analogue power supplies, such as the ones in microwave
ovens usually are, will die gracefully as a result of bad electrolytics
getting worse.

Arfa

james wrote:
Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD

When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any buttons.
No lights, no fan, no sound.
It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
this.

It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard. There's
a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets dangling on
wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of connectors. Could
the grease cause the connectors to fail?

I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers, lights,
fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the controller board
is where I want to start debugging since it houses the LCD display and hooks
up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get the controller board's
schematic?

BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by a
do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this device
should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get personal?

That is an odd warning. Microwaves should just state "you will die if you
open this, even if it's unplugged.