On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.


The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you will
need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX. Tin-lead stuff with activated flux,
greater than about 0.5% halides (if you can buy it now) will produce a
better result in a home DIY environment. If the description says
"non-corrosive flux" then that's the wrong type. You need the slightly
corrosive action of the halides to remove the oxide from from the nickel
so that the solder will alloy with the nickel.
Practice if first on a similar material.
Dave
--
Blow my nose to email me

john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? G

Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

In message , J Burns
writes
Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.

That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.

Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.

Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
just purchased

"Temperature of the soldering tip

High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
the component sensitive with temperature

Cleaning

The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
week so the soldering tip can keep the function

After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"


so now you know ...

--
geoff

In message ,
Kellerman "kellerman writes
On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.


The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.

No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
to the base copper underneath just before soldering

Simples

FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it

you lot are turning this into a major project

--
geoff

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:15:59 -0400, jeff_wisnia wrote:

john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? G

Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

I claim only four decades You be there before flux cored solder?

Wonder when that came out?

I remember my father wanted to replace the needle and cartridge in
the record player (over 40 years ago, one of old things that stacked
several LPs). So he bought the new cartridge, a roll of rosin cored
solder and a small solid copper iron one heated on the gas stove...

Worked too! He used to be a TV serviceman, up until the splat off a
picture tube threw him across a room, a career changing moment.

Grant.

On 2010-08-17, geoff wrote:

After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"


I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.

--
David TAylor

On Aug 16, 6:43*pm, "john hamilton" wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. *Thanks.

If you really cant solder it, wrap the wire through the tags, then
round them a couple of times, then slide a bit of stretched rubber
tube over it. Solder's best though.


NT

David Taylor wrote in news:slrni6lvng.r7s.davidt-
:

On 2010-08-17, geoff wrote:

After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"


I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.



you're FEEDING THE TROLL. stop that.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:47:25 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message ,
Kellerman "kellerman writes
On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.


The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.

No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
to the base copper underneath just before soldering

Simples

FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it

you lot are turning this into a major project

But those cheapie battery holders are difficult to solder, the plating
doesn't 'wet' easily. So cleaning it up first with emery paper, or
scratching it up is necessary so it will easily 'wet' and the solder
job work first time. Experience people know this, but beginners have
yet to learn which metals and surface conditions are easy to solder,
and which require more effort.

Sure, task at hand is easy, but promoting the larger picture might
help newbie get far more enjoyment from electronics, because they
learn some basic skills. Soldering is one of those basic skills.

Grant.

On Aug 18, 3:15 am, jeff_wisnia
wrote:
john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? G

Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

I used to have trouble with bigger soldering jobs. I could never get
enough heat into the objects being soldered.
I have no problem now that I made a solder pot:
http://i47.tinypic.com/2yyqq6w.jpg
It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
so we don't poison too many people with lead!

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:40:26 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message , J Burns
writes
Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.

That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.

Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.

Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
just purchased

"Temperature of the soldering tip

High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
the component sensitive with temperature

Cleaning

The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
week so the soldering tip can keep the function

After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"


so now you know ...
Technical Chinglish at it's best.

On 8/17/2010 6:00 PM, Matty F wrote:
It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
so we don't poison too many people with lead!

Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside.
Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an
extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation. Lead
melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute
amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased.
Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated
temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between
700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most
melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much
above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the
lowest temperature that gives good results.

Unless you've got your solder pot cranked up well over 800 F I don't
think you're going to be sucking up any lead vapors.

Jeff

Grant wrote:

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:

I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.

To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.


That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.

I'm surprised nobody mentioned cleaning up the battery tab first,
some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
IPA should be safe for the plastic?


Some are plated to make them look good, but then require an acid
flux. A small (4") 'Mill *******' file is handy to expose the base
metal. Pre tin the wire first, then wrap a turn around the terminal.
This will reduce the soldering time, and give you a better joint.



The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
and try again later.

Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
surrounds.

Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
down between the attempts.

And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together.

Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.

Grant.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.


File off the chrome.


Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
is about the best answer I can find.

Fred McKenzie wrote:

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?


How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?

On Aug 18, 12:45*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

* *How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?

If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.

In sci.electronics.repair john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

crimp, swage or weld?

soldering is as easy as it's going to get for something like a battery
holder.

On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

TDD

In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?


--
geoff

"hr(bob) " wrote:

On Aug 18, 12:45 am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Fred McKenzie wrote:

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?

If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.


That depends on how well sealed the cheap batteries are.

On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

TDD

On 18/08/2010 23:20, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)

Dave

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:45:44 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Fred McKenzie wrote:

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?


How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
corrosion.

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:20:26 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

TDD

Cockney rhyming slang - septic tank = yank.

On 8/18/2010 5:34 PM, Dave wrote:
On 18/08/2010 23:20, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)

Dave

Howdy cousin! 8-)

TDD

In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials


--
geoff

In message ,
writes
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:20:26 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

TDD

Cockney rhyming slang - septic tank = yank.

Hardly cockney, universal ex-pat speak

or would one prefer ...

merkin

and if you don't know what a merkin is, look it up


--
geoff

geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials


Yeah, but at least we had the stones to tell the monarchy to bugger off.
Not that we don't do a lot of stupid stuff as well, but at least we
haven't kept a clan of figureheads on the public dole for the last N
centuries.

On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials



Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)

TDD

On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials



Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)

TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

wrote:

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:45:44 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Fred McKenzie wrote:

What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?


How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
corrosion.


If you say so.

Paul wrote:

On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials



Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)

TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..


Yes. All the way to your mail box. Of course, that may require you
to get out of your chair and actually walk.

On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
In message , The Daring Dufas
writes
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I
have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I
would be
gratefull. Thanks.



If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:

http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?



I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials



Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)

TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

TDD

On 8/19/2010 2:23 AM, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:

TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

I'd have thought both the battery holder and the tabs would be available
at Maplins - small electronic parts.


Here's the Maplin link to what Brits call Lucar terminals:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725

The terminals are the same as what are called Faston (fast on) terminals
in The U.S. which slip on to a rectangular metal tab. The oval shaped
solder tabs on the battery holder can be squared off in order to accept
a Faston/Lucar terminal. Trim the solder tab to look like the end of a
male Faston/Lucar terminal and you can make a quick connect.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42727

I hope this makes it clearer and easier to understand the concept.

TDD

In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

and too soft.

On 8/19/2010 6:03 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
The Daring wrote:

I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks man! It's
for experimentation and playing around! It's not for the next great
military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 8/19/2010 2:23 AM, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:

TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US
replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

I'd have thought both the battery holder and the tabs would be available
at Maplins - small electronic parts.


Here's the Maplin link to what Brits call Lucar terminals:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725

The terminals are the same as what are called Faston (fast on) terminals
in The U.S. which slip on to a rectangular metal tab. The oval shaped
solder tabs on the battery holder can be squared off in order to accept
a Faston/Lucar terminal. Trim the solder tab to look like the end of a
male Faston/Lucar terminal and you can make a quick connect.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42727

I hope this makes it clearer and easier to understand the concept.

TDD

FastOn is AMP's trade name for push-on terminals. I believe Lucar
describes them as spade connectors.

Frederick Lucas started a car company by 1914. It went out of business
in 1921. It produced the Lucar. Maybe that's the origin if the trade name.

It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks
man! It's for experimentation and playing around! It's not for
the next great military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND
IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!

This thread is one of the worst examples I've seen of a simple question
turning into a hyper-elaborated megillah.

Several people (myself included) said that the terminals should/must be
soldered, and if you felt uncomfortable soldering, find someone who can do
it. That was all that was required, and the exchange should have ended
there.

I don't blame anyone who contributed for trying to help. It's good to help.

But other than the desire for social interaction, why is all this necessary?

In article , "john hamilton" wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).

http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.

If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.

Considering that a good solder joint has good mechanical connection
your method should would work fine, but you should use quick epoxy instead.
The slow epoxy is best however.

greg