LCD "zebra strip" repair for large displays?
 

I've read several descriptions of renovating zebra connectors, but they've
all been for small LCD's.

Has this been done successfully for large displays, such as laptops & desktop
monitors?

And yes, I'm sure it's the zebra and not a driver signal issue.

Thanks.

LCD "zebra strip" repair for large displays?
 

Gone Fishin' wrote in message
...
I've read several descriptions of renovating zebra connectors, but they've
all been for small LCD's.

Has this been done successfully for large displays, such as laptops &
desktop
monitors?

And yes, I'm sure it's the zebra and not a driver signal issue.

Thanks.


Are you talking about traditional rubber/metal sub-mm sandwich zebra strip
or the newer micron scale anisotropically conductive tape?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

LCD "zebra strip" repair for large displays?
 

On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 02:15:39 -0700, N_Cook wrote
(in article ):

Are you talking about traditional rubber/metal sub-mm sandwich zebra strip
or the newer micron scale anisotropically conductive tape?

Hmm... don't know. 8-year-old laptop 14.1-inch tft xga lcd display. I
presumed alternating insulator/conductor rubberized strip. How "new" is the
tape technology?

LCD "zebra strip" repair for large displays?
 

On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 07:52:46 -0700, notme wrote
(in article ):

don't know.

That is to say, I haven't opened it up yet to look.

What is the likelihood that this age display will be zebra type?

Thanks.

LCD "zebra strip" repair for large displays?
 

notme wrote:
On Mon, 3 Aug 2009 02:15:39 -0700, N_Cook wrote
(in article ):

Are you talking about traditional rubber/metal sub-mm sandwich zebra strip
or the newer micron scale anisotropically conductive tape?

Hmm... don't know. 8-year-old laptop 14.1-inch tft xga lcd display. I
presumed alternating insulator/conductor rubberized strip. How "new" is the
tape technology?

I'd bet that it's not a zebra.

If you've got lines out, you can try to press it down with
a thumbnail or something similar to get the flexible circuit board
stuck back to the glass. Then shim behind it to keep the pressure on.
I've had some luck reducing the number of lines out, but rarely
fixed 'em all. The second attempt always resulted in making it worse.

I think removing and replacing the whole connected section is not practical
without fixturing. Sideways alignment is critical.