Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Scooter Soldering Kit Battery


"S'mee" wrote in message
...
On Feb 13, 11:57 am, "ian field"
wrote:
"S'mee" wrote in message

...
On Feb 12, 1:00 pm, "ian field"
wrote:





"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in
s.net...


"ian field" wrote in message
...


"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in message
. ..


"Who Me?" wrote in message
.. .


"R. LaCasse" wrote


|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!


Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.


You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame"
down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.


The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using
it.


A good flux is often handy too.


The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.


Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.


Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have
to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do
the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands
off
and start all over again!


Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.-


agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.
--
Keith

I use what works - and keeps on working for many years afterward.


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Default Scooter Soldering Kit Battery


"Bob" wrote in message
...


I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular
12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the
other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????

I know most soldering kits, you buy or build, usually require a
standard wall socket 120v/60w soldering iron and some 4AA batteries....

So I was wondering what would happen if I used a 12volt SLA 8 amp
battery, since the wall outlet is a about 90watts and the 12volt SLA
battery
is also some 96 watts although it drops quickly to an easy 11 volts
because
of a burned cell I'm guessing....

The math is there but some other factor is missing, I can't see the
power of a 12volt SLA battery to a mere 4 AAs ...........has anybody ever
tried this with a regular soldering iron for outdoor use???
--
Triad Productions-Fantalla«~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
(http://tarbitch.balder.prohosting.com/htmlconc.html




I know many people have told the OP to get a Butane soldering iorn, but I
think the OP may be confused about one is. He probably thinks you mean a
pencil torch, not an actual butane soldering iorn with a tip and all.

Here is one
http://www.action-electronics.com/so...ons.htm#Butane

Or an Electric solution a 12v soldering iorn

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...C=SO&U=strat15

These were just two random iorns I googled and have no expirence with either
of them. Anyhow your scooter battery should be sufficient to run this for a
while since its only a 30w iorn.

I thikn you were wanting to hack a 120v iorn to work on 12v. That would be
a bit difficult and wouldn't be worth your time. Maybe you have a AA
battery powered iorn. That could work, but I doubt it runs on 12v. Its
probably 6 or less.

Best of luck ot you.

Mike


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"Michael Kennedy" wrote in message
...

"Bob" wrote in message
...


I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular
12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the
other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????

I know most soldering kits, you buy or build, usually require a
standard wall socket 120v/60w soldering iron and some 4AA batteries....

So I was wondering what would happen if I used a 12volt SLA 8 amp
battery, since the wall outlet is a about 90watts and the 12volt SLA
battery
is also some 96 watts although it drops quickly to an easy 11 volts
because
of a burned cell I'm guessing....

The math is there but some other factor is missing, I can't see the
power of a 12volt SLA battery to a mere 4 AAs ...........has anybody ever
tried this with a regular soldering iron for outdoor use???
--
Triad Productions-Fantalla«~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
(http://tarbitch.balder.prohosting.com/htmlconc.html




I know many people have told the OP to get a Butane soldering iorn, but I
think the OP may be confused about one is. He probably thinks you mean a
pencil torch, not an actual butane soldering iorn with a tip and all.


The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come
with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a
blowtorch fitting.

The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd
hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the
pencil blowtorch I have.



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On Feb 15, 11:24*am, "ian field"
wrote:
"Michael Kennedy" wrote in message

...







"Bob" wrote in message
.. .


I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular
12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the
other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????


I know most soldering kits, you buy or build, usually require a
standard wall socket 120v/60w soldering iron and some 4AA batteries.....


So I was wondering what would happen if I used a 12volt SLA 8 amp
battery, since the wall outlet is a about 90watts and the 12volt SLA
battery
is also some 96 watts although it drops quickly to an easy 11 volts
because
of a burned cell I'm guessing....


The math is there but some other factor is missing, I can't see the
power of a 12volt SLA battery to a mere 4 AAs ...........has anybody ever
tried this with a regular soldering iron for outdoor use???
--
Triad Productions-Fantalla«~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
(http://tarbitch.balder.prohosting.com/htmlconc.html


I know many people have told the OP to get a Butane soldering iorn, but I
think the OP may be confused about one is. He probably thinks you mean a
pencil torch, not an actual butane soldering iorn with a tip and all.


The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come
with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a
blowtorch fitting.

The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd
hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the
pencil blowtorch I have.


I can only offer one data point. I bought an Archer branded butane
soldering iron 20 years ago from Radio Shack. It still works fine, yes
you pay attention to where the exhaust is pointed...but like soldering
it is just a matter of paying attention to what is going on. shrug I
dunno, people have told me they don't work well but I just keep using
it and turning out decent work for what I do.

I am certain there are better ones available now.
--
keith
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On Feb 14, 10:58*am, "ian field"
wrote:
"S'mee" wrote in message

...
On Feb 13, 11:57 am, "ian field"
wrote:





"S'mee" wrote in message


....
On Feb 12, 1:00 pm, "ian field"
wrote:


"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in
s.net...


"ian field" wrote in message
...


"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in message
. ..


"Who Me?" wrote in message
.. .


"R. LaCasse" wrote


|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!


Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.


You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame"
down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.


The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using
it.


A good flux is often handy too.


The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.


Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.


Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have
to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do
the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands
off
and start all over again!


Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith


Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.


In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.-


agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.
--
Keith

I use what works - and keeps on working for many years afterward.


Okay, I just go by what I was taught by a radio station engineer in
the 70's. He'd been doing it since the late 50's.
--
Keith


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On 2/14/2009 9:58 AM ian field spake thus:

"S'mee" wrote in message
...

agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.

I use what works - and keeps on working for many years afterward.


Remind me *never* to even consider having you make any electrical
repairs for me.

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/14/2009 9:58 AM ian field spake thus:

"S'mee" wrote in message
...

agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.

I use what works - and keeps on working for many years afterward.


Remind me *never* to even consider having you make any electrical repairs
for me.

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device soldering
and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can short-circuit device
where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair


I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it wrong.


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On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device soldering
and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can short-circuit device
where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.


I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it wrong.


You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.


That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.


I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it
wrong.


You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.


That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--



He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got so much
corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like this plenty of
times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use cripms on this kind
of job, but acid flux also works.



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"Michael Kennedy" wrote in
:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for
wiring connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here
is totally ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.

I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it
wrong.


You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.


That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--



He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got
so much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like
this plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use
cripms on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.





Idea;
use one those anti-fluxes first to block acid flux from getting up where it
can't be cleaned off,before soldering. Like the Tix anti-flux.

I still would try Tarn-X first to clean the corrosion off the wire.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


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"Michael Kennedy" wrote in message
...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.

I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it
wrong.


You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.


That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--



He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got so
much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like this
plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use cripms
on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.


Actually I doubt the plumbers flux I use is acid.

UK building regulations are also affected by the dreaded RoHS so things like
corrosive fluxes aren't allowed any more. It was some years ago that
building suppliers stopped stocking Fry Fluxite (zinc chloride) I still find
uses for this flux in certain jobs and finally found a power tool supplier
that could order it..



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"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
"Michael Kennedy" wrote in
:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for
wiring connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here
is totally ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.

I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it
wrong.

You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--



He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got
so much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like
this plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use
cripms on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.





Idea;
use one those anti-fluxes first to block acid flux from getting up where
it
can't be cleaned off,before soldering. Like the Tix anti-flux.

I still would try Tarn-X first to clean the corrosion off the wire.


I think Tarn-X is a good idea. I've never thought to use it.
I hate working on wire in this condition, but sometimes you have to. So next
time I'll try the tarn-x and see if it works.


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On 2/16/2009 8:55 AM ian field spake thus:

"Michael Kennedy" wrote in message
...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for wiring
connections. The fact that we're even talking about it here is totally
ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.

I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting it
wrong.

You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got so
much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like this
plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually use cripms
on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.


Actually I doubt the plumbers flux I use is acid.


So you actually don't know what is or isn't in it. (I don't either.)
Might be worthwhile rooting around to try to find its contents (either
online, in a MSDS or from a supplier). My guess is that it is, in fact,
an acid flux.

UK building regulations are also affected by the dreaded RoHS so
things like corrosive fluxes aren't allowed any more. It was some
years ago that building suppliers stopped stocking Fry Fluxite (zinc
chloride) I still find uses for this flux in certain jobs and finally
found a power tool supplier that could order it..


I think you misunderstand RoHS and other regs; they don't seek to ban
anything corrosive, just regulate substances that are hazardous. I
seriously doubt that acid fluxes have been banned outright, or that they
ever will.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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I think Tarn-X is a good idea. I've never thought to use it.
I hate working on wire in this condition, but sometimes you have to. So next
time I'll try the tarn-x and see if it works.


Fine-grade sandpaper, or scraping, are also good alternatives...
mechanical removal of the oxidation/corrosion works well in many cases.

I've even learned to give the leads of resistors and capacitors a
quick scrape with the blade of a pair of diagonal cutters, before
soldering them to a PC board or to other component leads when doing
"ugly" construction. Few things are easier to solder than
just-scraped copper/tin/lead.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
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"Michael Kennedy" wrote in
:


"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
"Michael Kennedy" wrote in
:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/15/2009 12:36 PM ian field spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

For chrissakes, everyone *knows* not to use acid-core solder for
wiring connections. The fact that we're even talking about it
here is totally ridiculous.

But don't take my word for it:
http://www.scienceprog.com/reliable-...ng-with-fluxes

They say "You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device
soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can
short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small."

Sheesh.

I never said acid - that's you jumping to conclusions and getting
it wrong.

You said, and I quote:

I keep a tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

That stuff is acid flux. Wrong flux for wiring.


--


He means for ****ty 20 year old automotive or marine wire thats got
so much corrosion on it you can't brush it up. I've seen wire like
this plenty of times and rosin core flux won't touch it. I usually
use cripms on this kind of job, but acid flux also works.





Idea;
use one those anti-fluxes first to block acid flux from getting up
where it
can't be cleaned off,before soldering. Like the Tix anti-flux.

I still would try Tarn-X first to clean the corrosion off the wire.


I think Tarn-X is a good idea. I've never thought to use it.
I hate working on wire in this condition, but sometimes you have to.
So next time I'll try the tarn-x and see if it works.



back when TEK tube scopes were common,I used to use Tarn-X in a spray
bottle to clean the silver switch contacts,then wash the entire scope,then
3 days in the drying oven.It saved having to replace some complex switch
assemblies.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


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"ian field" wrote in message
...

"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in message
.. .


"ian field" wrote in message
...

"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in message
...


"Who Me?" wrote in message
...

"R. LaCasse" wrote

|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and
do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined
strands off and start all over again!




Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the
road the joint will fail.

46 years of soldering and still learning new "Tricks".

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On Feb 14, 2:02*am, R. LaCasse wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 21:56:56 -0800 (PST), "S'mee"

wrote:

| * * * * Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter for all the
| use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....
|
|You sure don't know what you are talking about that's for damn sure.
|But hey do it the hard way, if that's what you want. I mean what would
|I know, just because I've done if for a long damn time.

* * * * What CRACK?????...no **** heh!


What ever, I was just trying help. But hey, do what you want...it
ain't my wiring. I either clean it and solder or crimp.
--
Keith
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On Feb 16, 6:15*pm, "Steven Sea Gull"
drunkenly slurred:

What ever (snip)


Nothing to see here folks, just a *stupid* thread that's gone on so
long it's attracted bottom feeders like Keith.

Move along, move along.
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On Feb 16, 7:22 pm, "." wrote:
On Feb 16, 6:15 pm, "Steven Sea Gull"
drunkenly slurred:

What ever (snip)


Nothing to see here folks, just a *stupid* thread that's gone on so
long it's attracted bottom feeders like Keith.


Hmm, this coming from a liar, psychopath and all around idiot? High
compliments indeed. Tell me oh font of arcane knowledge how could a
reject, racist, liar, idot, pursuer of under age mexicans and all
around lonely, unemployed loser with no family possibly know anything
about what I do or do not do? Hmm...then again you are an internet
stalker who mines other peoples info. Much as you've attempted to do
to me and use like the sick ******* you are.

Funny thing Krusty...it doesn't scare me. Nothing you could do scares
me. Lie all you want...nobody believes you. You to can be found just
like everyone else.

For that matter you've contributed NOTHING to this thread...as usual
for a loser of your high caliber.
--
Keith
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On Feb 17, 6:12´┐Żam, "Steven Sea Gull" hung
over from last night's drunken debauchery, scribbled:

Hmm, this (snip)


Nothing to see here folks. Just some typical sea gull crap.

Move along, move along.


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On Feb 17, 10:05*am, "." wrote:
On Feb 17, 6:12 am, "Steven Sea Gull" hung
over from last night's drunken debauchery, scribbled:

Hmm, this (snip)


Nothing to see here folks. Just some typical sea gull crap.

Move along, move along.


Ah...still scared of me I see. Trying to push everyone away...too late
the world left you behind goober. Now take your inbred white trash act
somewhere else like antarctica.
--
Keith
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On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
R. LaCasse wrote:
|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.


Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


How so?


--
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Many of the world's greatest runners come from Kenya because they have a unique training program there -- it's called a lion.
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On Feb 22, 10:46*am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


How so?


Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?


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On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:31:00 -0000, . wrote:

On Feb 22, 10:46*am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


How so?


Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?


I see you don't know the answer.

--
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Hot Tub Tips for Women

It is not lady like to straddle a water jet, moan in ecstasy, then
scream at the top of your lungs, "Oh yes baby!"

Washing your partners back is sexy. Washing your pantyhose
is not!

Group nude bathing with strangers can be a pleasant experience,
but don't spoil things by making snide remarks like "I've seen bigger
wangs on Hamsters"

It's OK to pass a joint while tubbing. It's not OK to pass gas.

Don't think you're fooling anybody by trying to pass off your vibrator
as a toy submarine!
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"." wrote in message
...
On Feb 22, 10:46 am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


How so?


Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?

PHucker is a well known troll who bull****s in groups on topics he knows
absolutely nothing about - he's already been laughed out of all the
sci.electronics groups for spouting BS to guys who design chips and
aerospace gear - his "home haunt" is alt.binaries.chatter .





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ian field wrote:

"." wrote in message
...
On Feb 22, 10:46 am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


How so?


Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?

PHucker is a well known troll who bull****s in groups on topics he knows
absolutely nothing about - he's already been laughed out of all the
sci.electronics groups for spouting BS to guys who design chips and
aerospace gear - his "home haunt" is alt.binaries.chatter .



He's busy making a fool of himself in a thread crossposted to the
news:rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup, too.


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Michael A. Terrell wrote:

He's busy making a fool of himself in a thread crossposted to the
news:rec.crafts.metalworking newsgroup, too.


He and Krusty are well suited as a team, then.


--
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Buy one instead of asking where the free PDFs are
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On Feb 12, 2:16*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *R. LaCasse wrote:

|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.
* *Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too. *


Only on cold days...cold being UNDER 35F. Well that's my definition,
what would I know I've installed AC compressor units when it was 25F.
Getting the torch lit was the hardest part as the winds were a good
bit over 25mph that day. 8^(

Electric soldering irons shouldn't be bothered on windy days unless
it's damn cold.
--
Keith
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"Schiffner" wrote in message
...
On Feb 12, 2:16 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
R. LaCasse wrote:

|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.
Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


Only on cold days...cold being UNDER 35F. Well that's my definition,
what would I know I've installed AC compressor units when it was 25F.
Getting the torch lit was the hardest part as the winds were a good
bit over 25mph that day. 8^(

Electric soldering irons shouldn't be bothered on windy days unless
it's damn cold.
--
Temperature controlled soldering irons should cope unless its *BLOODY* cold,
the cheaper ones with no thermostat are regulated (of sorts) by a positive
temperature coefficient in the resistance wire the element is wound with. As
the element heats up it's resistance increases so the current draw levels
off, conversely if its cooled the resistance reduces increasing the current
draw.



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In article [email protected], "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:31:00 -0000, . wrote:

On Feb 22, 10:46*am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)

wrote:

Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.

How so?


Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?


I see you don't know the answer.

Wind cools the tip??? m-kay!


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On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 20:49:08 -0000, GMAN wrote:

In article [email protected], "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:31:00 -0000, . wrote:

On Feb 22, 10:46*am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)

wrote:

Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.

How so?

Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?


I see you don't know the answer.

Wind cools the tip??? m-kay!


Only a piddly 18W Antex. Temp-controlled ones don't have wind problems.

--
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Why are they called buildings, when they're already finished? Shouldn't they be called builts?
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"Peter Hucker" wrote in message news[email protected]...
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 20:49:08 -0000, GMAN
wrote:

In article [email protected], "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:31:00 -0000, . wrote:

On Feb 22, 10:46 am, "Peter Hucker" wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:16:25 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.

How so?

Next time you two clowns have a thought, just let it go, m'kay?

I see you don't know the answer.

Wind cools the tip??? m-kay!


Only a piddly 18W Antex. Temp-controlled ones don't have wind problems.


PHucker has a hot air problem!



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"Schiffner" wrote in message
...
On Feb 12, 2:16 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
R. LaCasse wrote:

|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.
Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Wind is a problem with an electric soldering iron too.


Only on cold days...cold being UNDER 35F. Well that's my definition,
what would I know I've installed AC compressor units when it was 25F.
Getting the torch lit was the hardest part as the winds were a good
bit over 25mph that day. 8^(



IME the butane pencil irons aren't well suited to outdoor automotive work.

It was cold and windy at the time and by the time I'd turned the gas up high
enough to make acceptable joints, it overheated when idle and ruined the
tinning on the tip.

Also for some unknown reason the catalyser gauze only glows round one side
of the burner since.



Electric soldering irons shouldn't be bothered on windy days unless
it's damn cold.
--
Keith



I've had even 60W temperature controlled irons struggle indoors in a bloody
cold workshop.

The OP might not find it easy to obtain a TC iron rated at 12V (there were
the 24V Weller TCP-1 irons - if you can still get them) so the choices are
along the lines; 12V (not temcont), 2 batteries in series to run a 24V iron
(if you can still get them) -or- a small mains voltage from 12V inverter
(probably less than 50% efficient - so much increased current draw for a
given wattage).

Another option is a computer backup UPS - but most types have a 'safety
feature', you can't just activate them and get mains from them - you have to
simulate a power outage by first plugging it into a wall socket and then
unplugging it with the load connected and running.

In my garage there's an old salvaged UPS with faked mains - a blocking
oscillator/inverter wired to the charging transformer to make the circuit
board think it had mains.

When the 'U' lock securing my motorcycle refused its key one morning I was
able to run the angle grinder away from any mains socket, long enough to cut
the lock.


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