The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

On Dec 23, 9:45*am, wrote:
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

Radio Shack sells various buzzers, also your local hardware store
should have a buzzer in trhe doorbell area. You just have to wire up
the power supply for the buzzer to the circuit that turns on the
lights.

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin



Unfortunately these usually operate at mains voltage, no isolation
transformer, like the electronics in a lamp dimmer.
You would need some sort of relay or small transformer added in to isolate
for a buzzer etc.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

OK, Thank you for your input.
cuhulin

wrote:
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

If it's *in addition* to the bulbs lighting,
a separate photosensitive system could run the noise maker.

JeffM wrote:
wrote:
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

If it's *in addition* to the bulbs lighting,
a separate photosensitive system could run the noise maker.

Here you can buy a unit that runs on AA batteries and has a noise maker.
You could open it up, remove/disconnect the speaker and run a set of wires to
a remote speaker and a "wall wart" for power.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM

"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
@news.motzarella.org:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.




--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.


Too complicated.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block'
power connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).
[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always
'on' when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between
the Live In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.

Note that many newer motion detectors have don't need the additional
switch for the override function. This is cunningly provided by
switching 'on'-'off'-'on' within 2 seconds. If you do this, the light
stays on. To restore the sensor function, you switch 'off', wait about
10 seconds, and then switch 'on'. However, the principle is the same. As
described above, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live
Out connections.

I've never actually done this, but it just HAS to work!
--
Ian

"Ian Jackson" wrote in message
...
In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so
that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with
the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.


Too complicated.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block' power
connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).
[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always 'on'
when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between the Live
In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.

Exactly as I've done it, several times. The system is mounted under an eave
on my detached workshop, and the buzzer is under an eave near my back door,
mounted on a 1/4" plywood 'sounding board', so that I'm aware of activity.
The worst part of the project was aiming the sensor to avoid false alarms,
as the front sidewalk is kinda close.

1D10T wrote:
"Ian Jackson" wrote in message
...
In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
@news.motzarella.org:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so
that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with
the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.

Too complicated.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block' power
connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).
[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always 'on'
when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between the Live
In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.

Exactly as I've done it, several times. The system is mounted under an eave
on my detached workshop, and the buzzer is under an eave near my back door,
mounted on a 1/4" plywood 'sounding board', so that I'm aware of activity.
The worst part of the project was aiming the sensor to avoid false alarms,
as the front sidewalk is kinda close.


All doable with off-the-shelf X10 hardware...plug it in and play. They
have motion sensor outdoor lights which send an X10 signal when
triggered. That signal can enable any one of dozens of modules,
including a sounding unit which simply plugs into any convenient outlet.
Other modules plug into the wall and provide a switched outlet
controlled by the same signal--by which any sort of sounder, light or
any other 120v device can be triggered. An unlimited number of modules
can be simultaneously switched.

AIRC, one even includes a wired or wireless TV camera.

Someone steps on the porch; voila'! a dedicated video monitor comes on
at the same time as the light on the porch, showing the caller (or
intruder, as it were) at the same time a beeper sounds. The video
signal can be routed to a computer and trigger an email alert, with
recorded video...or viewed live from any web-connected computer.

jak

In article , wrote:
JeffM wrote:
wrote:
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin

If it's *in addition* to the bulbs lighting,
a separate photosensitive system could run the noise maker.

Here you can buy a unit that runs on AA batteries and has a noise maker.
You could open it up, remove/disconnect the speaker and run a set of wires to
a remote speaker and a "wall wart" for power.

Geoff.



Try here

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93068

DRIVEWAY ALERT SYSTEM


Never be caught off guard again with this completely wireless infrared alert
system.

Place the sensor anywhere on your property and the receiver anywhere in your
house up to 400 ft away
Receiver chimes when sensor is crossed
Weather resistant

Requires one 9 volt and three C batteries

ITEM 93068-2VGA

$16.99

www.amazing1.com sells a Telespy Telephone Intrusion Notification
System, telephone.
www.amazing1.com/security3.htm

$74.50 The telephone looks like my cheap Slimline corded telephone I
bought for about $8.00 at a Wal Mart store a few years ago, but the
buttons are on the handset thingy.I don't tote a cell phone though.If I
did, I would probally buy one of those Telespy telephones, I think.
I had forgotten about www.x10.com I think I will look at their
website.
cuhulin

In article ,
Ian Jackson in
sci.electronics.repair wrote:

In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.


Too complicated.


Dunno, that sort of lamp is usually mounted outdoors, in a high and
inaccessible position. Stick the ct indoors, at the feed end of the
supply cable, save on weatherproofed glands, cable, etc. I do it that
way, any old tiny mains transformer with a 1V ish tap on the secondary
will do. Or wind a couple of turns over the bobbin and slot between
bobbin and core. Feeds a 12V postage stamp sized relay, so two sets
of isolation to keep that nasty, spikey 240VAC stuff away from my ttl.

Usual caveat forthe unwary when playing with cts, watch out for high
voltage if you open circuit the secondary winding.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block'
power connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).

Lucky you! Take a look at the modern ones, value engineered until the
last penny is shaved off the kit.

[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always
'on' when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between
the Live In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.


Not if the bulb is broken, I've a couple of dozen or so security
lights on my warehouses, that log onto an pee-cee alarm system, so get
a broken bulb alert.

Note that many newer motion detectors have don't need the additional
switch for the override function. This is cunningly provided by
switching 'on'-'off'-'on' within 2 seconds. If you do this, the light
stays on. To restore the sensor function, you switch 'off', wait about
10 seconds, and then switch 'on'. However, the principle is the same. As
described above, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live
Out connections.

I've never actually done this, but it just HAS to work!

It does, that's a feature! Light is on for some tens of seconds after
power-on, gives confirmation to user, provided he can see the lamp.
My lights are powered on when the alarm system is set, so illumination
to exit the property, and a log of unlit ones.

Regards

David P.

In message , 1D10T
writes

"Ian Jackson" wrote in message
...
In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so
that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with
the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.


Too complicated.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block' power
connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).
[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always 'on'
when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between the Live
In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.

Exactly as I've done it, several times. The system is mounted under an eave
on my detached workshop, and the buzzer is under an eave near my back door,
mounted on a 1/4" plywood 'sounding board', so that I'm aware of activity.
The worst part of the project was aiming the sensor to avoid false alarms,
as the front sidewalk is kinda close.

I'm glad to know that I'm not talking total ******** (which, I must
confess, I occasionally do). Apart from carefully pointing the sensor in
the correct direction, the usual method of restricting the 'field of
vision' of the sensor is to stick some pieces of preferably black PVC
tape on the critical places on the 'lens'. It does seem to work.
--
Ian

In message , David Powell
writes
In article ,
Ian Jackson in
sci.electronics.repair wrote:

In message 39, bz
writes
"N_Cook" wrote in news:gir6od$b71$1
:

wrote in message
...
The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
cuhulin


Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with the
outdoor lights.
Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
wind your own transformer.

You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
protect it from too much voltage.


Too complicated.


Dunno, that sort of lamp is usually mounted outdoors, in a high and
inaccessible position.

True, true. Oh course, if you're using a stand-alone sensor (which is
what I was really talking about), this can be mounted relatively low
down (where it will be more selective in what triggers it), with the
light being mounted higher in order to give a wider coverage of
illumination.

Stick the ct indoors, at the feed end of the
supply cable, save on weatherproofed glands, cable, etc. I do it that
way, any old tiny mains transformer with a 1V ish tap on the secondary
will do.

There are not many transformers with a 1V tap on the secondary.

Or wind a couple of turns over the bobbin and slot between
bobbin and core.

Yes, you'll probably need to do this. Of course, you'll probably need to
do a bit of experimenting to determine the number of turns required.

Feeds a 12V postage stamp sized relay, so two sets
of isolation to keep that nasty, spikey 240VAC stuff away from my ttl.

Usual caveat forthe unwary when playing with cts, watch out for high
voltage if you open circuit the secondary winding.

Indeed. The current transformer is a good idea, but is much more of a
home-construction project than a bit of simple DIY. Of course, if the
light bulb blows, you won't get any alarm. However, you would usually
notice if the light wasn't working.

Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block'
power connector. These enable you to connect:
Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
Live In (power in from switch).
Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).

Lucky you! Take a look at the modern ones, value engineered until the
last penny is shaved off the kit.

My experience with these things is limited, but surely there is always
some form of connection block? You can't get much cheaper than a bit of
'chocolate block'.

[Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always
'on' when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between
the Live In and Live Out connections.]
To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
whenever the light is lit.


Not if the bulb is broken, I've a couple of dozen or so security
lights on my warehouses, that log onto an pee-cee alarm system, so get
a broken bulb alert.

A blown (and therefore unlit) bulb won't stop the alarm (as I described)
from working. The 'alarm' voltage will still be fed to the wall-wart
transformer. Of course, except for not lighting up, you won't get any
indication that the bulb is not working. For a completely
'comprehensive' system, would need to use a combination of current
sensing and voltage sensing.

Note that many newer motion detectors have don't need the additional
switch for the override function. This is cunningly provided by
switching 'on'-'off'-'on' within 2 seconds. If you do this, the light
stays on. To restore the sensor function, you switch 'off', wait about
10 seconds, and then switch 'on'. However, the principle is the same. As
described above, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live
Out connections.

I've never actually done this, but it just HAS to work!

It does, that's a feature!

Thank heavens for that!

Light is on for some tens of seconds after
power-on, gives confirmation to user, provided he can see the lamp.
My lights are powered on when the alarm system is set, so illumination
to exit the property, and a log of unlit ones.

--
Ian