From 1978 , does anyone other than me repair these beasts ?
Only ever perished rubber problems but what a work up to get to a position
to be able to just change belts.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
From 1978 , does anyone other than me repair these beasts ?
Only ever perished rubber problems but what a work up to get to a position
to be able to just change belts.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




I think I've worked on one or two - didn't enjoy it either...those old
Aiwa's are some of the worst.

Mark Z.

N_Cook wrote:
From 1978 , does anyone other than me repair these beasts ?
Only ever perished rubber problems but what a work up to get to a position
to be able to just change belts.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



Well,

I'll agree there. They are a royal pain to change the rubber parts in,
though when working they are nice decks. I now worry about the quality
of parts available, as Aiwa no longer supports these machines, and a lot
of the aftermarket belts are awful. Some of them look like they were
cut from used tire (tyre) inner tubes.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics

Tim Schwartz wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
From 1978 , does anyone other than me repair these beasts ?
Only ever perished rubber problems but what a work up to get to a
position
to be able to just change belts.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



Well,

I'll agree there. They are a royal pain to change the rubber parts in,
though when working they are nice decks. I now worry about the quality
of parts available, as Aiwa no longer supports these machines, and a lot
of the aftermarket belts are awful. Some of them look like they were
cut from used tire (tyre) inner tubes.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics

At least I'm not alone, in touching these and in thinking they are right
pigs.
To get to anything, you have to disassemble something else and some you have
to jiggle around blind, before they line up again.

Got the manuals this time, for 2 to do, and the first I went through
dissassembly as per manual, which involves demounting the mains transformer
and like everything else the loom lengths are not enough to stow this big
lump out the way. Then a horrendous rat's nest of wiring to negotiate, and
managed to strain the deck light wires and of course broke at the bulb.

I think the second one I will do as I've done before, to get to the deck.
Remove the front and sub-front to free it. You have to wrap up the meters to
protect them and you cannot totally free the panel because the 1/4 inch
sockets are one-time fitted, and other end of cables inaccessible, so the
whole subpanel dangles, but easier to tie it up, out the way. That is
preferable to a dangling transformer and the rat's nest.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Yes, dismantle via the front sub panel. More bits to remove but when you get
the panel removed , just held by those annoying 1/4 inch socket cables; the
deck , solenoid, other motor and mains and ps are all bolted to the chassis
so can work on and test out the motive functions without having to
re-assemble anything/dis-assemble/reassemble.

I will have another go at trying to fathom how to remove the 1/4 inch
sockets.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Had to revert to my previous technique of grinding 2 flats into the domed
heads and then 2 could be undone with a small 3.5mm open ender screwdriver.
This time used an 1/8 inch cylinder centride burr in a Dremmel instead of
small grind stone. The other 2 I could get to with a pipe wrench, of all
things, because of the good leverage and right angle action.

So perhaps a sight no one has seen since production of Aiwa 6900 tape decks
in 1978. Trying to sort out a brakes problem otherwise totally enclosed and
impossible to glimpse any sort of view, only rather confusing exploded views
in the manual. B = brakes, S = their activation solenoid.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:gra...500_deck_a.jpg
the hidden jockey assembly and its activation lever train
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:gra...500_deck_b.jpg
with secondary motor under the rubber pulley and mounting plate

So it is possible to work on the deck without half taking the m/c to bits
first. So you have to reassemble before checking it out and so often you put
something back in the wrong position. But you do have to wrestle with those
glued screws. As one of them has nearly straight action with long handle
screwdriver but would not undo, then still a problem with the deck removed
and a straight attack to all 4 screws to get apart.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/