Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A

Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC
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Default Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A

Archon wrote:
Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC

OK, No matter, fixed it, new chip was duff, wtf, lucky I ordered 2.
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Default Duff chips (was Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A)

On Thu, 11 Sep 2008 20:15:08 GMT, Archon
wrote:

Archon wrote:
Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC

OK, No matter, fixed it, new chip was duff, wtf, lucky I ordered 2.


Are duff chips a common problem? I recently bought a frame output
chip for a Hitachi TV that was shorted across two pins.

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Default Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A

In looking ahead, to answer your question I myself have had bad IC's
that were new.

Because the drive IC had to be changed, it would be a good idea to see
if there is anything unusual that could have caused it to fail in the
first place. I have had everything from a CRT that arcs intermittantly
to components becoming defective in the circuit area that works with
the IC.


Jerry G.

--


On Sep 11, 3:10*pm, Archon wrote:
Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC


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Default Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A

Jerry G. wrote:
In looking ahead, to answer your question I myself have had bad IC's
that were new.

Because the drive IC had to be changed, it would be a good idea to see
if there is anything unusual that could have caused it to fail in the
first place. I have had everything from a CRT that arcs intermittantly
to components becoming defective in the circuit area that works with
the IC.


Jerry G.

--


On Sep 11, 3:10 pm, Archon wrote:
Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC


For parts to be defective from new is unbelievable, this was a Philips
part made in Thailand from a reputable parts dealer. Where is the
quality control? God help us when they start making chips in china.

From researching this fault on the web it seems this tube/tv has a
history of flashovers and early tube failure. Flashovers usually occur
when switching from cable input to component video. In fact this is the
third flashover that I have seen (heard) on this, the chip surviving the
previous two.
I have seen modification bulletins for other brands using the TDA6108JF
involving extra earth bonding between the CRT board and aquadag/tube
bonding but on this crt board the amount of ground copper is almost nil.
In fact the board is of such poor quality the tracks lift as soon as
they see an iron, very bad for Philips but typical of the decline in
quality of domestic electronics, one reason I got out of the TV/video
repair scene in the late 80's and went to medical/test equipment
servicing where quality was still in evidence.


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Default Duff chips (was Philips Widescreen TV EM1.2UAA / 30PW850H37A)

Graz wrote:
On Thu, 11 Sep 2008 20:15:08 GMT, Archon
wrote:

Archon wrote:
Hi , any TV repair folks help out here.

This widescreen TV had a flashover, took out the red output on the
TDA6108JF Video Output Amp on the crt board.

I bought replacement chip and fitted it, now instead of a bright red
screen with flyback lines I get a very bright white screen reduced in
size with flyback lines.

Previously I had Vin of 2.8Vdc, Vout(Cathode) 139Vdc on the dud chip
(remaining working parts)
Now I have 0.8Vdc input and 18Vdc output (Cathodes)

Black current measurement output pin 5 old chip 0.8Vdc, new chip 7.5Vdc

I don't have a schematic, any ideas where to buy ? I'm not in the TV
servicing business anymore, prefer watching them than fixing them but
this is my own TV and I guess I have to fix the sucker.

I don't see any adjustments in this set, is there anything I need to do
to set up/ recalibrate the black level? Isn't this automatic on these
fangled new sets? Is the new chip duff? It did arrive in a polybag,
guess its not that static sensitive. Nothing else reads as out of spec
and using the duff chip, disabling the red output and shorting the red
and green cathodes at the tube gives a reasonable picture.

TIA for any help,

JC

OK, No matter, fixed it, new chip was duff, wtf, lucky I ordered 2.


Are duff chips a common problem? I recently bought a frame output
chip for a Hitachi TV that was shorted across two pins.

In the field I work in now, test equipment/medical no, but domestic
repairs I couldn't say. I did replace the Lopt in a projection TV along
with all the associated stuff that fails with it and that lasted only 12
months where the previous had run for 10 years without problem. That got
binned, just couldn't be bothered with it.
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