Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like
Friedrick don't seem to have anything at all.

And I did spell Friedrich right when I searched for them.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

Home Cheapo or LoweBalls


"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message
...
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like
Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

PC Richards carries Amana, and occasionally another brand.
I have two. So far so good. About $350.
Newspaper ads show others, about the same price.

But even the salesguy was hemming and hawing, as they supposedly get a lot
of returns, due to high expectations.
The EER is very low, the BTUs proly not what the label says (about 8K), but,
for excellent dehumidification (buckets of water, also will throw the
condensate out with the heat (a misting process--nice), which might even
help efficiency), and passable A/C, if the space is not too big, or
enclosed, like a basement.

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.
--
------
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Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
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all d'numbuhs

"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message
...
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like
Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R

On Jun 27, 3:40 pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"

wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R

Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
delivered to
it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

J

On Jun 27, 4:09 pm, wrote:
On Jun 27, 3:40 pm, RicodJour wrote:

On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"

wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.


Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
delivered to
it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

I understand your point. Let me rephrase what I'm trying to say and
maybe you can clarify my thinking. A resistance heater is adding the
full load to the room and the relative humidity would stay more or
less the same. A dehumidifier would remove humidity, and add the full
heat load initially. After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
the sensible heat be lower?

R

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 20:24:18 -0000, RicodJour
wrote:

On Jun 27, 4:09 pm, wrote:
On Jun 27, 3:40 pm, RicodJour wrote:

On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"

wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.


Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
delivered to
it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

I understand your point. Let me rephrase what I'm trying to say and
maybe you can clarify my thinking. A resistance heater is adding the
full load to the room and the relative humidity would stay more or
less the same. A dehumidifier would remove humidity, and add the full
heat load initially. After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
the sensible heat be lower?

R

No. How are you going to turn water vapor into water by
extracting the heat from it, reject that heat into the room, and have
the rom cool down ???

Your sensible heat will be 'what is was before' + 'the latent
heat of condensation of the water vapor condensed' out + 'the
inefficiency / waste heat of the device'.


--
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"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...

After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
the sensible heat be lower?

No

RicodJour wrote:

"Proctologically Violated=A9=AE" wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800
watt heater.

... I think you're a bit on the high side in your heat output estimate.
I think 400 watts for a residential unit would be more realistic. You're
dropping the relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat pumps,
since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured a 1.6 COP with
a power meter and a measuring cup.

Nick

wrote in message
...
RicodJour wrote:

"Proctologically Violated=A9=AE"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800
watt heater.

... I think you're a bit on the high side in your heat output estimate.
I think 400 watts for a residential unit would be more realistic. You're
dropping the relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the
units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat
pumps,
since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured a 1.6 COP with
a power meter and a measuring cup.


So you're saying a dehumidifier that consumes 800 watts of energy is
providing more than 800 watts of heat?

BULL****!!!!

your far better off buying several window units, more efficent, no
moving hassles, quieter, since at least some of the noise is outside.

and small window units are cheap.

So you're saying a dehumidifier that consumes 800 watts of energy is
providing more than 800 watts of heat?

Yep. Think of it as a swamp cooler in reverse. An unswamp heater.

Psychrometrics are not so favorable, however. It's a dry heat.

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat
pumps, since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured
a 1.6 COP with a power meter and a measuring cup.

So you're saying a dehumidifier that consumes 800 watts of energy is
providing more than 800 watts of heat?

Yes. If it's like the one I measured, it would provide 1.6x800 = 1280 watts.

BULL****!!!!

Do you believe a 500 watt air conditioner can move 1500 watts of heat? :-)

It's time to admit you are wrong and apologize for your arrogance.

Nick

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...

Even a heating element isn't 100% efficient.

Since when?

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...

Even a heating element isn't 100% efficient.

Since when?

Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

Devil made me do it

Take care.

Ken

Ken Weitzel wrote:
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...

Even a heating element isn't 100% efficient.

Since when?

Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

But both of those are eventually absorbed and dissipated as heat...

--

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 21:24:09 GMT, Ken Weitzel
wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...

Even a heating element isn't 100% efficient.

Since when?

Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

Devil made me do it

Take care.

Ken

Both of which ( light and vibration ) are forms of energy
released into the room, which become heat, thus it IS 100 %
efficient :-)

Dog made me do it :-)


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RicodJour writes:

On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated=A9=AE"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 wa=
tt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

How so?

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Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
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subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800
watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R


Dehumidifiers don't use heating elements, they just pass the chilled
dehumidified air through the condenser which heats it back up. There's some
net gain, since the power consumed by the compressor (about 400W) becomes
heat.

On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:57:51 GMT, "James Sweet"
wrote:


"RicodJour" wrote in message
roups.com...
On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800
watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts.

What would be realistic is :

The total power consumption of the unit
plus
The latent heat of condensation of any water it takes out.

100 % of the above will be sensible heat in the space.


Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R


Dehumidifiers don't use heating elements, they just pass the chilled
dehumidified air through the condenser which heats it back up. There's some
net gain, since the power consumed by the compressor (about 400W) becomes
heat.


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:PsFgi.6295$pT4.1951@trndny06...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 27, 3:04 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800
watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.


Not another one...

Since when is electric heat not 100% efficient?

On Jun 27, 11:31 am, "Tom Del Rosso" wrote:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

My 2 cents on a portable AC:

1) Get a model with two hoses - the two hose models use outside air to
cool the condenser and will be more effecient. You will not be
sucking the cooled air out of the room to blow it outside - this is
what the models with one hose do (the condenser air comes from
somewhere.
2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time. They
seem to be able to blow some condensate out the air hose, but unless
you are in a dry area you will probably get more condensate than what
it can evaporate out the air hose. (If you want to pump water out the
window you will probably need a condensate pump and some
3) They are for the most part pretty quiet. It seems most of the
noise is what you can hear through the thin walls of the air hoses
leading to the window (these hoses connect to the area the condenser
fan and compressor live in - most of the noise is in there).

I personally have had a PAD-121 running every night for 3 years
without any issues. That model is no longer available, but the
successor is: http://www.heatcontroller.com/series...ca&sid=15&c=17

There are plenty of options out there though, so do your research...

J

"Jensington" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 27, 11:31 am, "Tom Del Rosso" wrote:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

My 2 cents on a portable AC:

1) Get a model with two hoses - the two hose models use outside air to
cool the condenser and will be more effecient. You will not be
sucking the cooled air out of the room to blow it outside - this is
what the models with one hose do (the condenser air comes from
somewhere.
2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time. They
seem to be able to blow some condensate out the air hose, but unless
you are in a dry area you will probably get more condensate than what
it can evaporate out the air hose. (If you want to pump water out the
window you will probably need a condensate pump and some
3) They are for the most part pretty quiet. It seems most of the
noise is what you can hear through the thin walls of the air hoses
leading to the window (these hoses connect to the area the condenser
fan and compressor live in - most of the noise is in there).

I personally have had a PAD-121 running every night for 3 years
without any issues. That model is no longer available, but the
successor is: http://www.heatcontroller.com/series...ca&sid=15&c=17


Wish I had known about the two hose units!
Now that I think back, I seem to recall two hose units, but didn't realize
the purpose.
Unfortunately, never saw any two-hose units when I was ready to buy, and
likely the PC Richards people wouldna known what they were for, either.

Good link, but website wasn't that informative--no price, EER. Any ideas?
Other observations good as well. Prodigious condensate. I "prefer" to empty
buckets/use the water, but it is a chore.
A pump to a storage barrel would be better.
The 850 watt Amana can readily fill a 5 gal pail in 24 hrs.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

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all d'numbuhs



There are plenty of options out there though, so do your research...

J

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in
message ...

I "prefer" to empty
buckets/use the water, but it is a chore.


What are you using the water for?

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote
in
message ...

I "prefer" to empty
buckets/use the water, but it is a chore.


What are you using the water for?


From elsewhere, I know he's also a machinist--and so probly he uses it ( as
do I ) to mix with water soluble cutting oil or synthetic instead of buying
DI water...just need to add an anti-microbial..

--

"Jeffrey Lebowski" wrote in message
newsqGdnS8qsrC9pB7bnZ2dnUVZ_oupnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote
in
message ...

I "prefer" to empty
buckets/use the water, but it is a chore.


What are you using the water for?


From elsewhere, I know he's also a machinist--and so probly he uses it (
as
do I ) to mix with water soluble cutting oil or synthetic instead of
buying
DI water...just need to add an anti-microbial..

I'm flattered... you didn't insert the adjective "wannabee".
Ahma haveta tell the group....

Indeed, soluble oil, but the output is too prodigious even for that (on a
maintenance basis), so I basically pour it around the plants/lawn/house.

I tried draining it right into the Fadal resevoir tank, figgered it'd be
good as "makeup water", and boy was I surprised to see the tank overflow
(30-35 gal!), not to mention the coolant getting awfully thin in the
meantime.

So I had to stop that, and do the 5 gal bucket thing.
Somewhat the pita.
Each 5 gal bucket is 40 lbs, made more difficult by pulling it from an
awkward location, and then tryna not spill it, and then for some distance.
sheeesh.....
I think NYC water is about .00001 c per gallon.

Oh well... .
But, you know what they say:
00001 penny saved is .00001 penny earned.

--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs





--

On Jun 27, 5:45 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:
Wish I had known about the two hose units!
Now that I think back, I seem to recall two hose units, but didn't realize
the purpose.

Good link, but website wasn't that informative--no price, EER. Any ideas?
Other observations good as well. Prodigious condensate. I "prefer" to empty
buckets/use the water, but it is a chore.
A pump to a storage barrel would be better.
The 850 watt Amana can readily fill a 5 gal pail in 24 hrs.

They are all pretty ineffecient. Better effeciency can be had by
spending more money on central A/C (higher SEER) or a mini-split (for
example Fujitsu's run up to a whopping 21 SEER). In both of those
cases you would need a professional install.

That being said, a dinky little A/C like that, even running at 8 SEER
or something crappy like that, is not going to break the bank just
because it's not big anyhow, and you probably don't run it 24/7.
Additionally, depending on your situation, wasting some electricity
dollars may be ok if the alternatives (putting central A/C in your
rental unit or something) don't make sense. This "ineffeciency" may
add up to something like $10 a month (guessing here) so it may not
matter.

Jensington

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:

Wish I had known about the two hose units!
Now that I think back, I seem to recall two hose units, but didn't realize
the purpose.
Unfortunately, never saw any two-hose units when I was ready to buy, and
likely the PC Richards people wouldna known what they were for, either.


So you got hosed!

years ago i got into a heated argument with the fellow in charge of
building maintence where i worked. the window AC unit was ineffective
having been vented into a compressor machine room. in the summer the
temperature in there must of been near 200 degrees. the jerk claimed
that had no effect on the ac operation...

clearly he was wrong, and either too stupid to realize it or plain
lazy and didnt want to move the unit. worse the company wanted us
looking professional in long sleeve dress shirts and ties, in a
office near 90 degrees..........

heck they really wanted us in suits.........

wrote in message
oups.com...
years ago i got into a heated argument with the fellow in charge of
building maintence where i worked. the window AC unit was ineffective
having been vented into a compressor machine room. in the summer the
temperature in there must of been near 200 degrees. the jerk claimed
that had no effect on the ac operation...

clearly he was wrong, and either too stupid to realize it or plain
lazy and didnt want to move the unit. worse the company wanted us
looking professional in long sleeve dress shirts and ties, in a
office near 90 degrees..........

heck they really wanted us in suits.........



Yikes

I've observed that head pressure is more or less directly related to
condenser temperature, if it was 200 degrees in there the pressure must have
been through the roof. No wonder it quit working.

Jensington writes:

2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time.

Or you can add a condensate pump for about $40.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
.. .
Jensington writes:

2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time.

Or you can add a condensate pump for about $40.

I got one for $.99 + free shipping.

Ebay ...doh !!!

--

On Jun 27, 1:31 pm, "Tom Del Rosso" wrote:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.

--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

Get one with two hoses, the single hose ones cause a fair bit of
outside air to infiltrate in

"Abby Normal" wrote in message
ups.com

Get one with two hoses, the single hose ones cause a fair bit of
outside air to infiltrate in

Thanks everyone, especially to those who pointed out that some have 2 hoses.
I was wondering before if the single hoses were split.

--

Reply in group, but if emailing add another
zero, and remove the last word.

On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 13:50:47 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
wrote:

"Abby Normal" wrote in message
oups.com

Get one with two hoses, the single hose ones cause a fair bit of
outside air to infiltrate in

Thanks everyone, especially to those who pointed out that some have 2 hoses.
I was wondering before if the single hoses were split.

Hi Tom,

FWIW, this article appeared in today's Plain Dealer:

http://www.cleveland.com/living/plai...780.xml&coll=2

Cheers,
Paul

Fry's Electronics has been advertising them.



On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 14:31:06 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
wrote:

Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.

"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message
...
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like
Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.



They're all pretty much the same, there's virtually no difference at all
between the small rotary compressors they use, and they're all about the
same efficiency (not very) due to mandated standards. Buy one that has the
features and cosmetic design you like.

Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.



Don't waste your money on one. I had an 8000 BTU model. It was a
worthless piece of junk. They have a *very* serious design flaw - the
air the gets blown across the condensing coils (high side, the hot part)
on normal a/c units comes from outside, blows across the high side, and
is vented to the outside. Works great. With the portable units, the air
that blows across the condensing coils comes from the room your are
trying to cool, and is vented to the outside. This causes a relatively
high volume of air to be vented to the outside - and hot air to be
sucked into the room. IOW, it is constantly sucking in a lot of hot air
from outside, and trying to cool it along with the hot air that is
already in the room. Because of this, they will not cool as much space
as a window mount 8000 BTU unit will.

Bite the bullet and get a window mount unit.

On Jun 27, 4:11 pm, Ook wrote:
Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.

Don't waste your money on one. I had an 8000 BTU model. It was a
worthless piece of junk. They have a *very* serious design flaw - the
air the gets blown across the condensing coils (high side, the hot part)
on normal a/c units comes from outside, blows across the high side, and
is vented to the outside. Works great. With the portable units, the air
that blows across the condensing coils comes from the room your are
trying to cool, and is vented to the outside. This causes a relatively
high volume of air to be vented to the outside - and hot air to be
sucked into the room. IOW, it is constantly sucking in a lot of hot air
from outside, and trying to cool it along with the hot air that is
already in the room. Because of this, they will not cool as much space
as a window mount 8000 BTU unit will.

Bite the bullet and get a window mount unit.

or get one with two hoses, that draws in its condenser air from the
outside