Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get worse.
I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in message
...
OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get worse.
I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above

is
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in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


Beware of leaking electricity.
I'm assuming you don't have access to the problem area. Dependent on how
close it is to a disposal job, I would cut an access hole in the adjascent
outer steel panelling and blank off with something aesthetic afterwards.
Put some of that U cross-section plastic "Flexiform" grommet strip around
the cut edge while playing around inside. I've done that with a washing
machine problem like this in an area behind large lumps of concrete that as
far as I could see were not removable.

Perhaps try query in uk.d-i-y, they like that sort of thing, and UK is no
more USA than water leaks are electronic ;-)

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

On May 24, 1:29 am, "N Cook" wrote:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in message

...





OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?


This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get worse.
I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't rule that out.


Any info appreciated.


Thanks.


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above

is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included

in the
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Beware of leaking electricity.
I'm assuming you don't have access to the problem area. Dependent on how
close it is to a disposal job, I would cut an access hole in the adjascent
outer steel panelling and blank off with something aesthetic afterwards.
Put some of that U cross-section plastic "Flexiform" grommet strip around
the cut edge while playing around inside. I've done that with a washing
machine problem like this in an area behind large lumps of concrete that as
far as I could see were not removable.

Perhaps try query in uk.d-i-y, they like that sort of thing, and UK is no
more USA than water leaks are electronic ;-)

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Sam:

How about a bright light shining under the dishwasher while it is
running and a mirror on a stick and video camera if you can't stay
around long enough to observe.

At that age, if it is used frequently, it may be just plain worn out
around the punp bushings, and these things are not generally easily
repairable, in my experience. I hate to say replace, but that may be
you easiest (and maybe alnmost cheapest) option.

Bob Hofmann

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking


"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.


Could it be from the hose to the sump? I repaired mine with a gasket of
double sided tape.



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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

there is a seal on the pump/motor shaft that disintegrates with time check
it


"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get worse.
I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
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in the
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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"hr(bob) " writes:

On May 24, 1:29 am, "N Cook" wrote:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in message

...





OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?


This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get worse.
I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't rule that out.


Any info appreciated.


Thanks.


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/

Beware of leaking electricity.
I'm assuming you don't have access to the problem area. Dependent on how
close it is to a disposal job, I would cut an access hole in the adjascent
outer steel panelling and blank off with something aesthetic afterwards.
Put some of that U cross-section plastic "Flexiform" grommet strip around
the cut edge while playing around inside. I've done that with a washing
machine problem like this in an area behind large lumps of concrete that as
far as I could see were not removable.

Perhaps try query in uk.d-i-y, they like that sort of thing, and UK is no
more USA than water leaks are electronic ;-)


Sam:

How about a bright light shining under the dishwasher while it is
running and a mirror on a stick and video camera if you can't stay
around long enough to observe.


Actually, that's exactly what I plan to do. I have an "intra-oral"
video camera and LCD monitor. Not sure I'll do it first when it's
running, but will carefully inspect it for evidence of cracks, rust,
loose clamps (unlikely), etc.

At that age, if it is used frequently, it may be just plain worn out
around the punp bushings, and these things are not generally easily
repairable, in my experience. I hate to say replace, but that may be
you easiest (and maybe alnmost cheapest) option.


According to what I've read, the motor/pump thing is not serviceable
and the replacement is $100-150, although a rebuilt one might be
less. Not sure it's worth it for such an old machine. It has been
used regularly, though I wouldn't say it overstressed.

From what I can gather without actually seeing (so far) an exploded
diagram, this uses a horizontal motor driven pump (that I can see!)
which directs its output either to the rotating spray arm assembly,
or to the output hose, using a solenoid operated "butterfly" valve.
Since the leak is present only when the machine is draining, that
does narrow down the location considerably.

Or, since it sounds like the same motor/pump assembly has been used
on many GE/Hotpoint models, perhaps one from a junker could be found
if it isn't something that MacGuyver can repair.

If I can manage to remove the motor/pump assembly for careful inspection
without having to take the entire machine out (and disconnect plumbing)
that would be great. There aren't that many connections to it.

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.


Could it be from the hose to the sump? I repaired mine with a gasket of
double sided tape.


You mean to the drain? I will carefully check that. Hoses looked to be
in very good condition from initial inspection.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking


"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

Could it be from the hose to the sump? I repaired mine with a gasket of
double sided tape.


You mean to the drain? I will carefully check that. Hoses looked to be
in very good condition from initial inspection.


Mine actually leaked from the fill hose connection but it could be the drain
in your case. Not so much the hose but the gasketing to the wash tank.





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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

Could it be from the hose to the sump? I repaired mine with a gasket of
double sided tape.


You mean to the drain? I will carefully check that. Hoses looked to be
in very good condition from initial inspection.


Mine actually leaked from the fill hose connection but it could be the drain
in your case. Not so much the hose but the gasketing to the wash tank.


But note that this is only leaking when it is pumping out. Thus all the
seals that need to be intact during fill, wash, and rinse, are not leaking.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics
is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the
Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It has
an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.

The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it only
has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.

The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn bearing)
in it's movement.

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub, which
was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft seal,
this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass pump
housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is not that
expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not too
hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw whitch
holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to turn off
the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing since it should
be hard wired, does not have a power cord.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in the
field at the time of installation.

R!!


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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking


"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

But note that this is only leaking when it is pumping out. Thus all the
seals that need to be intact during fill, wash, and rinse, are not
leaking.


If that's for sure then yes, looks like a pump seal and it's on the outflow
side.



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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as electronics
repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the area
near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics
is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the
Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It has
an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it only
has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn bearing)
in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub, which
was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft seal,
this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass pump
housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not too
hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw whitch
holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to turn off
the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing since it should
be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in the
field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

But note that this is only leaking when it is pumping out. Thus all the
seals that need to be intact during fill, wash, and rinse, are not
leaking.


If that's for sure then yes, looks like a pump seal and it's on the outflow
side.


The same pump is used for all functions. There was another reply that
seemed to make the most sense - a seal on the valve that switches between
wash and drain.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?


I dont know if parts are still available for the wastegate repair, but
the hole that the shaft goes through gets larger and the screws that
hold the plate of the valve to the shaft are peened to prevent them from
falling out, rather tedious job to remove them. There was a kit at one
time new shaft, screws , nut, plate and bearing seal and reamer and of
course instructions.


Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?


See above, just getting the thing apart to try something is tough...


I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?


Yes!

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.


Yes, kinda tight under there, they may also be a couple of ground wires
under screws that are quite clumsy to get at.

You will be greatly assisted with a small mirror.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



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Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



Try this site...

http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispatcher?
REQUEST=ACCESSORY&mainFrameUrl=POPUP&modelNumber=G SD2800&title=Repair%
20Parts

note line wrap...

http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet/Dispatcher?
REQUEST=IPCNETGETPDF&file=00000000/00003100/00003175.p03.pdf

Pdf of a sample model parts list...

http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispa...QUEST=HOMEPAGE

if all else fails...

R!!


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
R! R! is offline
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Posts: 39
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate

SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75

Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...

SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25

Housing with valve is NLA

PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00

Complete Pump assembly...

MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50

Hope this is helpfull...

R!!
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 142
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
| http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate

SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75

Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...

SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25

Housing with valve is NLA

PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00

Complete Pump assembly...

MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50

Hope this is helpfull...


Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about
$100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire
thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what
this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now......

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
  #18   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,236
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

On May 25, 7:00 pm, Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"R!" writes:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


"R!" writes:


Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?


This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.


Any info appreciated.


Thanks.


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.


Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?


Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?


I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.


The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?


expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.


Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.


Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!


Thanks!


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate


SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75


Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...


SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25


Housing with valve is NLA


PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00


Complete Pump assembly...


MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50


Hope this is helpfull...


Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about
$100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire
thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what
this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now......

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


it's a real pain to do anything unless you remove the dishwasher.
Once you do that, a totally new machine isn't that much more than the
entire pump replacement sots, and you get a new machine. I like to
repair stuff, but if this were mine, I probably would replace the
whole machine.

Bob Hofmann

  #19   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,236
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

On May 25, 7:00 pm, Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"R!" writes:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


"R!" writes:


Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?


This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.


Any info appreciated.


Thanks.


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.


Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?


Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?


I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.


The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?


expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.


Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.


Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!


Thanks!


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate


SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75


Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...


SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25


Housing with valve is NLA


PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00


Complete Pump assembly...


MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50


Hope this is helpfull...


Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about
$100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire
thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what
this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now......

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Please, keep us posted as to what you find and what you decide.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

  #20   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 107
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"hr(bob) " writes:

On May 25, 7:00 pm, Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"R!" writes:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


"R!" writes:


Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:


OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?


This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.


Any info appreciated.


Thanks.


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or
electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact
me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.


Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?


Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?


I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.


The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?


expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.


Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.


Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!


Thanks!


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info:
|http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html


Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate


SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75


Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...


SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25


Housing with valve is NLA


PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00


Complete Pump assembly...


MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50


Hope this is helpfull...


Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about
$100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire
thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what
this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now......

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:http://www.repairfaq.org/


Please, keep us posted as to what you find and what you decide.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann


Absolutely! (Though I doubt it's going to end up being a Tom Clancy
trhiller!).

I still can't figure out exactly where the leak is. It does NOT appear to
be at the shaft of the butterfly valve, but closer to the back of the motor.
might the higher pressure in the pump chamber when draining due to the
much smaller diameter connector result in a leak through a marginal
motor/pump seal?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.



  #21   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 107
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Just an update. No, I haven't dug into the leak yet. Still appears to be
coming from the shaft seal area since the water drips off of the back of
the motor (the sheet metal flange).

I did find a few other minor probably unrealted issues.

The spring cutter (#432 in the diagram at: http://tinyurl.com/2gno7q )

is broken and I've only found the straight piece so far, or perhaps the
spring part is still attached.

I'm also getting intermittent "Wash Arm Blocked" errors. The reed switch
and magnet seem to be fine in that a voltmeter across the reed switch
shows appropriate behavior, and I've cleaned out all debris from the screen and
wash tower and cleaned them up as best I can. Unfortunately, it's really
hard to watch the arm spinning when it's running!

But I have a question: On the bottom section of part #550, there is a
hole and slot. The hole is visible in the diagram but there is what
looks like a post sticking out where the slot is. Should there be
something in that hole that has magically disappeared? In the
diagram, there is a part #557 near it which could be related but has
no accompanying description. It's not shown in the parts diagram that
came with the dishwasher.

Thanks for any info!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/


I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.


The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.


The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.


This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that


But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.


Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.


Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:


Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate

SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75

Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...

SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25

Housing with valve is NLA

PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00

Complete Pump assembly...

MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50

Hope this is helpfull...

R!!

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R! R! is offline
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Posts: 39
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

Just an update. No, I haven't dug into the leak yet. Still appears
to be coming from the shaft seal area since the water drips off of the
back of the motor (the sheet metal flange).

I did find a few other minor probably unrealted issues.

The spring cutter (#432 in the diagram at: http://tinyurl.com/2gno7q )

is broken and I've only found the straight piece so far, or perhaps
the spring part is still attached.

I'm also getting intermittent "Wash Arm Blocked" errors. The reed
switch and magnet seem to be fine in that a voltmeter across the reed
switch shows appropriate behavior, and I've cleaned out all debris
from the screen and wash tower and cleaned them up as best I can.
Unfortunately, it's really hard to watch the arm spinning when it's
running!

But I have a question: On the bottom section of part #550, there is a
hole and slot. The hole is visible in the diagram but there is what
looks like a post sticking out where the slot is. Should there be
something in that hole that has magically disappeared? In the
diagram, there is a part #557 near it which could be related but has
no accompanying description. It's not shown in the parts diagram that
came with the dishwasher.

Thanks for any info!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics
is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the
Feedback Form in the FAQs.


snip

Blue plastic housing, reed switch sometimes will lean away from the tub
when hot and cause a blocked wash arm message. Check to be sure it is
firmly aginst the side of the tub.

Spring cutter is no real problem, comes in the complete seal kit.

The stem on item 550 that holds the wash arm is the only thing I have
had problems with, check inside the washarm and see if the magnet has
come unglued...

I think this dishwasher is saying, replace me before the wife gets to
upset...like yesterday.

R!
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Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 142
Default GE GSD2800 Dishwasher Leaking

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

Just an update. No, I haven't dug into the leak yet. Still appears
to be coming from the shaft seal area since the water drips off of the
back of the motor (the sheet metal flange).

I did find a few other minor probably unrealted issues.

The spring cutter (#432 in the diagram at: http://tinyurl.com/2gno7q )

is broken and I've only found the straight piece so far, or perhaps
the spring part is still attached.

I'm also getting intermittent "Wash Arm Blocked" errors. The reed
switch and magnet seem to be fine in that a voltmeter across the reed
switch shows appropriate behavior, and I've cleaned out all debris
from the screen and wash tower and cleaned them up as best I can.
Unfortunately, it's really hard to watch the arm spinning when it's
running!

But I have a question: On the bottom section of part #550, there is a
hole and slot. The hole is visible in the diagram but there is what
looks like a post sticking out where the slot is. Should there be
something in that hole that has magically disappeared? In the
diagram, there is a part #557 near it which could be related but has
no accompanying description. It's not shown in the parts diagram that
came with the dishwasher.

Thanks for any info!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/


snip

Blue plastic housing, reed switch sometimes will lean away from the tub
when hot and cause a blocked wash arm message. Check to be sure it is
firmly aginst the side of the tub.

Spring cutter is no real problem, comes in the complete seal kit.

The stem on item 550 that holds the wash arm is the only thing I have
had problems with, check inside the washarm and see if the magnet has
come unglued...

I think this dishwasher is saying, replace me before the wife gets to
upset...like yesterday.


Good time for an update.

No, I haven't fixed the leak yet.

But I did completely disassemle and clean the washtower assembly and checked
the "blocked wash arm" magnet and sensor. For whatever reason, that problem
seems to have gone away. It's even possible that there is a bad connection
at the connector for the sensor since it really went away after sticking a
multimeter in there to monitor the reed switch signal. "I'm being monitored,
better start working."

I'm still procrastinating on attacking the leak since that almost certainly
requires removing the entire thing and it would be out of service for awhile!

As far as replacement. From my point of view, that would be a shame.
With some cleaning, everything really is in very good condition.

Thanks for your interest.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
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