Someone donated this UPS and I was fully expecting the SLA batteries to be
sulphated and scrap, but they were in fact reasonably charged and a session
on the Optimate gave each battery the green light "good indicator".

With the batteries fully charged and the mains connected the UPS remains
dead as a dodo - no LEDs lit, nothing!

A look on the website reveals that the unit can be shut down via software (I
don't have the serial cable) but I would have expected at least 1 LED lit on
the front panel, I've opened it up and confirmed both mains & battery
voltage actually reach the PCB.

Any suggestions?

TIA.

Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

"ian field" wrote in message
...
Someone donated this UPS and I was fully expecting the SLA batteries to be
sulphated and scrap, but they were in fact reasonably charged and a
session on the Optimate gave each battery the green light "good
indicator".

With the batteries fully charged and the mains connected the UPS remains
dead as a dodo - no LEDs lit, nothing!

A look on the website reveals that the unit can be shut down via software
(I don't have the serial cable) but I would have expected at least 1 LED
lit on the front panel, I've opened it up and confirmed both mains &
battery voltage actually reach the PCB.

Any suggestions?

TIA.

"Dario" wrote in message ...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no "battery
only mode".

As yet I've not put a load on it (I have to make up a O/P lead) as no LEDs
on the front panel light, its supposed to do a self test when the "ON"
button is held for a few seconds and its supposed to beep to indicate
status, it doesn't do that either.

On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:36:57 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


"Dario" wrote in message ...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no "battery
only mode".

As yet I've not put a load on it (I have to make up a O/P lead) as no LEDs
on the front panel light, its supposed to do a self test when the "ON"
button is held for a few seconds and its supposed to beep to indicate
status, it doesn't do that either.


Hold the power button in for several seconds and see if it turns on in
battery mode.

Most likely it's just broken. I personally haven't heard of many
people having good luck repairing APC's. There is no documentation
available to troubleshoot them.
NewsGuy.Com - $19.95 Unlimited Bandwidth

"UHF" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:36:57 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


"Dario" wrote in message
...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no "battery
only mode".

As yet I've not put a load on it (I have to make up a O/P lead) as no LEDs
on the front panel light, its supposed to do a self test when the "ON"
button is held for a few seconds and its supposed to beep to indicate
status, it doesn't do that either.


Hold the power button in for several seconds and see if it turns on in
battery mode.

An instruction label on the case says hold the button for several seconds to
activate self test - so obviously (and as I've already stated in an earlier
post) I already tried that!

ian field wrote:

"UHF" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:36:57 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


"Dario" wrote in message
...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no "battery
only mode".

As yet I've not put a load on it (I have to make up a O/P lead) as no LEDs
on the front panel light, its supposed to do a self test when the "ON"
button is held for a few seconds and its supposed to beep to indicate
status, it doesn't do that either.


Hold the power button in for several seconds and see if it turns on in
battery mode.

An instruction label on the case says hold the button for several seconds to
activate self test - so obviously (and as I've already stated in an earlier
post) I already tried that!


The newer units will not function without a load. A 150 watt
incandescent light bulb will do.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...
ian field wrote:

"UHF" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:36:57 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


"Dario" wrote in message
...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no
"battery
only mode".

As yet I've not put a load on it (I have to make up a O/P lead) as no
LEDs
on the front panel light, its supposed to do a self test when the "ON"
button is held for a few seconds and its supposed to beep to indicate
status, it doesn't do that either.


Hold the power button in for several seconds and see if it turns on in
battery mode.

An instruction label on the case says hold the button for several seconds
to
activate self test - so obviously (and as I've already stated in an
earlier
post) I already tried that!


The newer units will not function without a load. A 150 watt
incandescent light bulb will do.

When I looked on their website for the user manual the current offering of
that unit has a choice of serial or USB, mine only has serial so I'm
guessing it isn't all that new.

Just in case I plugged a domestic fan in as a load, it didn't even twitch,
the outputs are a row of flush IEC plugs - I thought it possible that these
might have embedded switches to disable it if nothings plugged in, but this
turned out not to be the case.

There's no LEDs lit on the front panel, no feed through power, no bleeps and
no sign of life from the inverter, although as I rested my hand on the
chassis I'm sure I could feel it humming.

Are there any fuses on the board?
Most UPS have a fuse for AC input, another for the output and another
for battery, check all them.
The battery one might look like the fuses found in cars. Otherwise you
will have to troubleshoot and see where the current gets or doesn't
get. Keep an eye that if the battery fuse is gone there might be
something else wrong like shorted transistors, etc. I would try to
supply with a 12V current limited source after replacing the fuse.

ian field wrote:
When I looked on their website for the user manual the current offering of
that unit has a choice of serial or USB, mine only has serial so I'm
guessing it isn't all that new.

Just in case I plugged a domestic fan in as a load, it didn't even twitch,
the outputs are a row of flush IEC plugs - I thought it possible that these
might have embedded switches to disable it if nothings plugged in, but this
turned out not to be the case.

There's no LEDs lit on the front panel, no feed through power, no bleeps and
no sign of life from the inverter, although as I rested my hand on the
chassis I'm sure I could feel it humming.

"Jeroni Paul" wrote in message
ups.com...
Are there any fuses on the board?
Most UPS have a fuse for AC input, another for the output and another
for battery, check all them.
The battery one might look like the fuses found in cars. Otherwise you
will have to troubleshoot and see where the current gets or doesn't
get. Keep an eye that if the battery fuse is gone there might be
something else wrong like shorted transistors, etc. I would try to
supply with a 12V current limited source after replacing the fuse.

The battery fuse is an inline fuse between the 2 batteries (its a 24V
inverter) this is visibly intact and I checked the 24V is getting to the
transistors, the mains fuse is a button type circuit breaker and I checked
240V is reaching the board, can't see any other fuses but it isn't easy to
lift the board out because of the heavy cables to the heatsinks and a very
fragile flexiprint to the front panel.

"Yuki" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:36:57 GMT, "ian field"
wrote:


"Dario" wrote in message
...
Does it work on battery mode only, or completly dead?

AFAIK it can't be started unless mains was previously supplied and
subsequently failed, if that is so then there is effectively no "battery
only mode".

If it's one of the models with a rocker switch in the back then you can
start it
without mains supply holding the front on button while switching it on at
the
back.


No rocker switch.

UHF wrote:

Most likely it's just broken. I personally haven't heard of many
people having good luck repairing APC's. There is no documentation
available to troubleshoot them.


http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&newwindow=1&rls=GWYA%2CGWYA%3 A2006-31%2CGWYA%3Aen&q=APC+schematics&btnG=Search


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"ian field" wrote in message
...
Someone donated this UPS and I was fully expecting the SLA batteries to be
sulphated and scrap, but they were in fact reasonably charged and a
session on the Optimate gave each battery the green light "good
indicator".

With the batteries fully charged and the mains connected the UPS remains
dead as a dodo - no LEDs lit, nothing!

A look on the website reveals that the unit can be shut down via software
(I don't have the serial cable) but I would have expected at least 1 LED
lit on the front panel, I've opened it up and confirmed both mains &
battery voltage actually reach the PCB.

Any suggestions?

TIA.

I just fixed mine -- shipped from APC -- it had a constant alarm buzzer when
plugged in and turned on.
APC internet support -- could not help.

The APC Smart-UPS 1000 uses a number of "QC" (Quick Connect) terminals.
It is not uncommon for these to become loose during shipments or moves with
this model.

On my unit, found one of the transformer's secondary wires from transformer
not fully seated on the PC board -- that was it -- working like a champ.

When these APC units fail --- the top 3 reasons / problems:

1. Bad lead-acid batteries
2. Charger circuit bad (can not properly charge battery)
3. Internet circuit (can not produce 120 VAC from good battery).

gb

"w9gb" wrote in message
...
"ian field" wrote in message
...
Someone donated this UPS and I was fully expecting the SLA batteries to
be sulphated and scrap, but they were in fact reasonably charged and a
session on the Optimate gave each battery the green light "good
indicator".

With the batteries fully charged and the mains connected the UPS remains
dead as a dodo - no LEDs lit, nothing!

A look on the website reveals that the unit can be shut down via software
(I don't have the serial cable) but I would have expected at least 1 LED
lit on the front panel, I've opened it up and confirmed both mains &
battery voltage actually reach the PCB.

Any suggestions?

TIA.

I just fixed mine -- shipped from APC -- it had a constant alarm buzzer
when plugged in and turned on.
APC internet support -- could not help.

The APC Smart-UPS 1000 uses a number of "QC" (Quick Connect) terminals.
It is not uncommon for these to become loose during shipments or moves
with this model.

On my unit, found one of the transformer's secondary wires from
transformer not fully seated on the PC board -- that was it -- working
like a champ.

When these APC units fail --- the top 3 reasons / problems:

1. Bad lead-acid batteries
2. Charger circuit bad (can not properly charge battery)
3. Internet circuit (can not produce 120 VAC from good battery).

gb



Thanks for the suggestions, the Optimate battery conditioner pronounced both
batteries good - I'll check the other points.

w9gb wrote:
On my unit, found one of the transformer's secondary wires from transformer
not fully seated on the PC board -- that was it -- working like a champ.

It is likely many UPS have been dumped for just that.

When these APC units fail --- the top 3 reasons / problems:

1. Bad lead-acid batteries
2. Charger circuit bad (can not properly charge battery)
3. Internet circuit (can not produce 120 VAC from good battery).

Inverter circuit?

"Jeroni Paul" wrote in message
oups.com...
w9gb wrote:
On my unit, found one of the transformer's secondary wires from
transformer
not fully seated on the PC board -- that was it -- working like a champ.

It is likely many UPS have been dumped for just that.

This is the first UPS I've ever acquired that didn't have totally f****d
batteries.

Sorry to be so late I just subscribed to the group. Did U get unit
working, sounds to be dead power supply poss the switchmode. U could
try heating it with a hairdryer to see if it starts when hot, don't
cook it tho. Is poss the caps have dried out and won't allow it to
start when cold, if it starts when hot caps will need replacing.
--
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