Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,220
Default Mackie SRM 450 powered speaker

How to separate the 2 main body parts.
I have to get to the speaker and have so far only removed one screw.
They are 2 inch long, twin start, that bite too much in the bulk of the
plastic.
I'm aware of this situation before, in other kit, and the screw shank
snapping due to the excess torque required to undo, not just the first turn
but perhaps half the thread length. Previously I've heated the head of the
screws with a soldering iron to partially soften the plastic , then when
extracted, drill out the plastic a little.
But these are recessed 8 inches down.
So is it a matter of the shaft of a long philips screw driver with the
plastic handle removed , replaced with something metalic and a soldering
iron heater slid over the shaft to heat the recessed screw.
Anyone tried extending an impact driver to break the binding ?
Any other ideas ?


  #2   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,220
Default Mackie SRM 450 powered speaker

N Cook wrote in message
...
How to separate the 2 main body parts.
I have to get to the speaker and have so far only removed one screw.
They are 2 inch long, twin start, that bite too much in the bulk of the
plastic.
I'm aware of this situation before, in other kit, and the screw shank
snapping due to the excess torque required to undo, not just the first

turn
but perhaps half the thread length. Previously I've heated the head of the
screws with a soldering iron to partially soften the plastic , then when
extracted, drill out the plastic a little.
But these are recessed 8 inches down.
So is it a matter of the shaft of a long philips screw driver with the
plastic handle removed , replaced with something metalic and a soldering
iron heater slid over the shaft to heat the recessed screw.
Anyone tried extending an impact driver to break the binding ?
Any other ideas ?



whoops
just as i'd found a soldering iron heater to slide over a long philips I
decided to see if there was access via the front grill, bolts without spring
washers so surprising none were actually loose, accessible from the front.

No apparent reason for failure of the speaker and cold tests of the driver
trannies look ok, not shorted to DC rails.
Was working normally , not overdriven according to the owner . Then next
power up there was horn output but no bass driver, just as though a wire had
come loose, no big thump or noise.




Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Samsung 171MP speaker noise when powered on vpaul Electronics Repair 0 July 3rd 06 01:46 AM
Mackie CR1604-VLZ 16 ch mixer n cook Electronics Repair 0 June 30th 06 03:02 PM
Break-even point for home electric generator powered by natural gas? What about NG-powered AC compressor? Home Repair 0 December 5th 05 09:04 AM
Schematic Mackie 1400 [email protected] Electronics Repair 0 February 28th 05 10:33 PM
RCF/Mackie ART speaker series question Stefan Toftevall Electronics Repair 0 September 30th 04 09:11 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:16 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"