My trusted Mitsubishi cs-2710ra died, it displays thin horizontal bar
on the middle of the screen. I can see picture elements in the bar .
I'm debating if it makes sense to fix it or just trash it. I'll attemt
to fix it first by myself but I need help to troubleshoot it. Please
help me to troubleshoot it or give me suggestions what to look for.

Thanks!

ladybug wrote:
My trusted Mitsubishi cs-2710ra died, it displays thin horizontal bar
on the middle of the screen. I can see picture elements in the bar .
I'm debating if it makes sense to fix it or just trash it. I'll attemt
to fix it first by myself but I need help to troubleshoot it. Please
help me to troubleshoot it or give me suggestions what to look for.

Thanks!

Check the electrolytic capacitors on the board that the yoke coil plugs
into. Most of the time that is the problem. You may need to replace
more than one.

longman wrote:
ladybug wrote:
My trusted Mitsubishi cs-2710ra died, it displays thin horizontal bar
on the middle of the screen. I can see picture elements in the bar .
I'm debating if it makes sense to fix it or just trash it. I'll attemt
to fix it first by myself but I need help to troubleshoot it. Please
help me to troubleshoot it or give me suggestions what to look for.

Thanks!

Check the electrolytic capacitors on the board that the yoke coil plugs
into. Most of the time that is the problem. You may need to replace
more than one.


Do I need to unsolder caps for checking? How can I see if cap is bad
with multimeter? If you can get a hold of schematics can you tell me
which caps to check?

It's best to use a ESR meter for finding bad caps


"ladybug" wrote in message
oups.com...
My trusted Mitsubishi cs-2710ra died, it displays thin horizontal bar
on the middle of the screen. I can see picture elements in the bar .
I'm debating if it makes sense to fix it or just trash it. I'll attemt
to fix it first by myself but I need help to troubleshoot it. Please
help me to troubleshoot it or give me suggestions what to look for.

Thanks!

"rb" wrote in message
...

It's best to use a ESR meter for finding bad caps

Actually an ESR meter will not identify all or even most of the bad caps in
this set. Some will have high esr, most will be physically leaking
electrolyte, and some will be low in capacitance. This problem may be
caused by leaky caps at the vertical output IC and/or in the 12V supply.
Ther will be at least a dozen more that need to be replaced or more problems
will be occurring soon. The circuit traces that are corroded from the
electrolyte leakage will need to be repaired and all of the residue from the
caps will need to be washed from the board. We fix these all the time and
they are a "pay me now or pay me more later deal." We don't even touch tem
if the client does not want to pay to have all the bad or failing caps
changed. Just fixing the vertical circuit is a sure way to get a recall in
a few weeks or months with an unhappy client.

Leonard


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Does anyone can point me to a repair manual or schematic?

You can get it from Mitsubishi, but it will likely be a waste of $$$. It
will not tell you how to fix the set.

Leonard

"ladybug" wrote in message
ups.com...
Does anyone can point me to a repair manual or schematic?


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"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in
newsBaGg.19447$yO4.5222@dukeread02:

You can get it from Mitsubishi, but it will likely be a waste of $$$.
It will not tell you how to fix the set.

Leonard

He is right, look for the bad caps. Buy an ESR meter and use it, it will be
well worth the money. I think that MCM has a nice one, get the one with the
analog meter on it, much better than those darned LED ones. I think that
Tenma (Really cheap brand.) has one that is actually pretty good. The only
thing that I don't like about it is that the analog meter is not well
damped, the needle swings too freely if you ask me but this is a personal
preference and does not really render the meter less worthy.

To use an ESR meter, unplug the set and then touch the meter leads across
electrolytic caps. A large swing on the needle means that the cap is
probably good. A small swing of the needle or no swing at all means that
the cap is way dried out or open. Small value electrolytic capacitors
(4.7uF or smaller) will give only a small swing on the needle anyway. Learn
how to use the meter and what to expect by testing it on some new caps. Try
a small one, 1uF, a larger one 10uF, and two larger ones 47uF and 100uF so
that you will know what to expect of the meter.

This meter works in circuit with no power on the set. This test will not
positivly indicate bad capacitors. A shorted capacitor or one with a very
low resistance across it, say a coil or low value resistor, will show up
the cap as being good. Remove cap from circuit to double check anything
suspicious.

Oh, I found the cheap meter for you at MCM electonics, here is a link:
http://tinyurl.com/qa447

It cost $125 and is actually quite good. Buy this meter, it is worth it.
Just to show you, MCM has two other ESR meters prices at $549 and $769 so
for the $125 that they want for this very much working ESR meter, you can
see that it is well worth it and comes with an analog meter. What could be
better? Go for it.

--
~Ohmster

Why dont you read what people have posted for you.

kip
"ladybug" wrote in message
ups.com...
Does anyone can point me to a repair manual or schematic?

kip wrote:
Why dont you read what people have posted for you.

kip
"ladybug" wrote in message
ups.com...
Does anyone can point me to a repair manual or schematic?



I did read. I just don't want to replace every single cap "on the board
that the yoke coil plugs
into". I want to be more specific because I need to get new caps
first.

"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in
news:zg7Gg.19427$yO4.2699@dukeread02:

Actually an ESR meter will not identify all or even most of the bad
caps in this set. Some will have high esr, most will be physically
leaking electrolyte, and some will be low in capacitance. This
problem may be caused by leaky caps at the vertical output IC and/or
in the 12V supply. Ther will be at least a dozen more that need to be
replaced or more problems will be occurring soon. The circuit traces
that are corroded from the electrolyte leakage will need to be
repaired and all of the residue from the caps will need to be washed
from the board. We fix these all the time and they are a "pay me now
or pay me more later deal." We don't even touch tem if the client
does not want to pay to have all the bad or failing caps changed.
Just fixing the vertical circuit is a sure way to get a recall in a
few weeks or months with an unhappy client.

Leonard

Leonard is right. Old Mitsubishi televisions have a gorgeous picture tube
and last a long time, but after 10 years, the electrolytic caps go bad by
the pound. You have to replace a lot of them, clean up all the crap on the
board around where they leaked, repair the traces of foil where they
corroded, and replace any parts that got wiped by the leakage, if there is
any. But if you do all of that, the television will come out really nice
and you will have a good TV. The only sets really worth this much trouble
are the really big picture tube ones like 35" and larger (They made a super
fantastic 40" CRT set.). A 27" set might not be worth this much trouble
unless you are doing it as a hobby and have plenty of time to kill.

--
~Ohmster

I got new caps but TV seems to be completely dead now. I don't have
power on the main high voltage transformer so tube gets nothing. No
cathode light, no high voltage... I checked the fuses, no problems
there.. I can hear power relay clicking when I press power button on
the remote, so controls are good. Any ideas?

"ladybug" wrote in news:1156809810.350898.9610
@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

I got new caps but TV seems to be completely dead now. I don't have
power on the main high voltage transformer so tube gets nothing. No
cathode light, no high voltage... I checked the fuses, no problems
there.. I can hear power relay clicking when I press power button on
the remote, so controls are good. Any ideas?

Gosh I tried like hell to get you away from this thing, Ladybug. After all
the work you put into it, now this. (And it is STILL just an old 27" TV
set!) ...sigh.

"Any ideas?" ...yeah, pitch the set and be done with it already. But I
assume that is still not an option, yet?

Is horizontal output transistor shorted? This is a large, usually black
transistor (Black plastic, maybe metal back on it, with three legs on it,
attached to a large metal plate of some kind to dissipate the heat.) over
near the flyback transformer. If you put an ohmmeter probe on the collector
(Center leg) and the other probe on the emitter (leg on the left side) does
it read a very high value of ohms or is it shorted (Very low ohms, usually
1 ohm or less.)?

If shorted then you have opened up something in the power supply circuit
that feeds the B+ to the horizontal output circuit, could be a resistor or
fuse (Some fuses look like small resistors, attached with wires to the
board.) and the horizontal output transistor will have to be replaced.
Could also have been caused when you put the CRT board back on with bent
pins on the CRT. Now that they are straightened out, the set might work if
you find out what happened to your B+ for the horizontal output circuit.

Seriously though, if the set is not fixed really soon with just a few last
things to do, consider cutting your losses and running on this. How much
more kicking can your heiny stand on this job?
--
~Ohmster