Have been having an ever increasing start problem with my well pump.
Noticed that sometimes it would start OK if jiggled the on off switch.
Will add that we have mainly been using the on off switch by the pump
control panel because we have been trying to clean the water storage
tank.

Was surprised when removed the switch because it was a Hubbell 15A
120-277V AC only. Since the circuit breaker is 20A 240V thought it
would be at least the same or larger.

Since I will be replacing the switch am wondering if it is cost
effective to go to a 30A or higher switch under the assumption that
there will be a longer life expectancy since it will be operating more
conservatively. The "Real World Aspect" cost for a 20A is ~ $6.77
while a 30A is ~ $10.47

Have done a couple searches but have not really found
anything.http://www.google.com/search?q=life+...&start=10&sa=N
Am guessing the switch mfrs have done a cost benefit analysis but do
not know if they have published anything.

Appreciate any comments!

Gene OHara

Have been having an ever increasing start problem with my well pump.
Noticed that sometimes it would start OK if jiggled the on off switch.
Will add that we have mainly been using the on off switch by the pump
control panel because we have been trying to clean the water storage
tank.

Was surprised when removed the switch because it was a Hubbell 15A
120-277V AC only. Since the circuit breaker is 20A 240V thought it
would be at least the same or larger.

Since I will be replacing the switch am wondering if it is cost
effective to go to a 30A or higher switch under the assumption that
there will be a longer life expectancy since it will be operating more
conservatively. The "Real World Aspect" cost for a 20A is ~ $6.77
while a 30A is ~ $10.47

Have done a couple searches but have not really found

anything.http://www.google.com/search?q=life+...+switches&hl=e
n&lr=&start=10&sa=N
Am guessing the switch mfrs have done a cost benefit analysis but do
not know if they have published anything.

Appreciate any comments!

Gene OHara

The correct switch should be a single phase motor starting switch. Normal
household switches are not rated for the full load starting current of a
motor. The contacts will wear out sooner. Also these motor switches are 2
pole. They disconnect both wires from the load. If I couldnt find a motor
switch I would use a higher current 2 pole switch ,like the 30 amp.
Hope that helps
Roy

" bravely wrote to "All" (23 Aug 05 14:23:41)
--- on the heady topic of "Weak Link in Well Pump Electrical Chain?"

ge From:
ge Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:340473

ge Have been having an ever increasing start problem with my well pump.
ge Noticed that sometimes it would start OK if jiggled the on off switch.
ge Will add that we have mainly been using the on off switch by the pump
ge control panel because we have been trying to clean the water storage
ge tank.

ge Was surprised when removed the switch because it was a Hubbell 15A
ge 120-277V AC only. Since the circuit breaker is 20A 240V thought it
ge would be at least the same or larger.

ge Since I will be replacing the switch am wondering if it is cost
ge effective to go to a 30A or higher switch under the assumption that
ge there will be a longer life expectancy since it will be operating more
ge conservatively. The "Real World Aspect" cost for a 20A is ~ $6.77
ge while a 30A is ~ $10.47

ge Have done a couple searches but have not really found
ge anything.http://www.google.com/search?q=3dlif...n+off+switches
ge &hl=3den&lr=3d&start=3d10&sa=3dN Am guessing the switch mfrs have done a cost
ge benefit analysis but do not know if they have published anything.

ge Appreciate any comments!

ge Gene OHara


I think any switch contacts would benefit from a snubber network.
This keeps the spark down, from inductive loads such as motors, and
prolongs contact life by a large margin. Perhaps even the reason your
original contacts burned is because the existing snubber is open
circuit to begin with! A 30A switch might be harder to burn out but
not impossible with the right inductive kickback and no snubber.
In theory at least...

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... You mean 15" sparks are SUPPOSED to come out of this thing?!?