MiTAC 3026E Laptop Can't make it on
 

Max Rating:11V-2.8A
S/N:002J1A3773
R043D
FCC ID:EJH3026E


I worked on my laptop by connecting its AC Adapter(Model3026A-ADA)
through wall outlet.
AC Input:100-240V,1.0A,50/60Hz
DC Output:11V-2.8A
Laptop failed to open,does not shows Power light on its front
cover.After minutes of connection to Power Socket,I touched cord from
Adapter to Laptop which became hot,I feel smell of burning not sure
from where exactl.I checked underside of Laptop where Power Cord
connected was also warm.
On Power Cord Cable(showing 10 Wires) to Laptop following is written:
AWM E101344 STYLE 2464 VW-1 300V 80 Centigrade Space Shuttle
Its wonder why it failed to make my laptop working as reading above
shows that it can withstand 80 Celcius.
Any help/suggestion pls.
Will I open the adapter to check it's Protection fuse T1A/250V?
In an effort to take out fuse,I have totally broken fuse glass,it was
still intact with it's right/left terminals fixed in a metal cap with
strong soldered legs.I have taken these remains of fuse legs to see If
I can buy the same and solder it on it's previous pads.
Can I run laptop without fixing fuse for Adapter?

"Thaqalain" wrote in message
oups.com...
Max Rating:11V-2.8A
S/N:002J1A3773
R043D
FCC ID:EJH3026E


I worked on my laptop by connecting its AC Adapter(Model3026A-ADA)
through wall outlet.
AC Input:100-240V,1.0A,50/60Hz
DC Output:11V-2.8A
Laptop failed to open,does not shows Power light on its front
cover.After minutes of connection to Power Socket,I touched cord from
Adapter to Laptop which became hot,I feel smell of burning not sure
from where exactl.I checked underside of Laptop where Power Cord
connected was also warm.
On Power Cord Cable(showing 10 Wires) to Laptop following is written:
AWM E101344 STYLE 2464 VW-1 300V 80 Centigrade Space Shuttle
Its wonder why it failed to make my laptop working as reading above
shows that it can withstand 80 Celcius.
Any help/suggestion pls.
Will I open the adapter to check it's Protection fuse T1A/250V?
In an effort to take out fuse,I have totally broken fuse glass,it was
still intact with it's right/left terminals fixed in a metal cap with
strong soldered legs.I have taken these remains of fuse legs to see If
I can buy the same and solder it on it's previous pads.
Can I run laptop without fixing fuse for Adapter?

Sounds like the initial problem is in the laptop, not the power adapter.
The adapter will not function without a correct fuse.

JMK

Before I read your post , I have broken fuse to take it out as it was
strongly soldered to legs of it's protective capping.I don't know why
chinese designed it like this.For monitors/Tvs we can easily remove it
and replace it.But for this adapter,it can only be removed in pieces.

Can I run adapter and Laptop without fuse?As I don't think so fuse with
another protective capping with legs for soldering is available in
Market.

Thaqalain wrote:
Before I read your post , I have broken fuse to take it out as it was
strongly soldered to legs of it's protective capping.I don't know why
chinese designed it like this.For monitors/Tvs we can easily remove it
and replace it.But for this adapter,it can only be removed in pieces.

It can be removed in one piece by unsoldering it.

Thaqalain wrote:

Can I run adapter and Laptop without fuse?As I don't think so fuse with
another protective capping with legs for soldering is available in
Market.


No, you cannot run the adapter without the fuse. It will not function.
It is difficult to solder wires to a fuse. Look for a fuse OF THE
SAME RATING of the "pigtail" type. These have the wires already
soldered to the end caps. Then remove the board from the adapter,
unsolder the broken fuse and solder in the new fuse.

Damage is being already committed,I can do only solder from newly
purchased gun,not sure how to unsolder if situation require in future.
An

My foot and palm injured due to glass remains of fuse stuck to skin.
Can I unsolder the same fuse from a printer adapter and fix it to
laptop adapter,what should be looked in laptop as a first step?

After opening laptop,I found AA size,3.6V,one Tadiran Lithium
Inorganic Battery.I need to check this is working or failed.

The fuse from a printer adapter can only be used safely if it
has the exact same ratings as the one its replacing.

Thaqalain wrote:
My foot and palm injured due to glass remains of fuse stuck to skin.
Can I unsolder the same fuse from a printer adapter and fix it to
laptop adapter,what should be looked in laptop as a first step?

There is no way,I can open Printer Adapter made in Mexico,I don't why
they designed it to be locked.
I have used a different monitor fuse and loosely connected it's
terminals via soldering,but adapter did'nt worked,its dead.
Right tpye of fuse is not available in Canadian famous electronics
shops(Future,Circuit City/Radio Shack,Canada Tyre,Wall Mart etc).

That's right, it's not a really common fuse to find in
stores since it's not replaceable by the average consumer.
Try a TV service shop, or mail order one.

Thaqalain wrote:
There is no way,I can open Printer Adapter made in Mexico,I don't why
they designed it to be locked.
I have used a different monitor fuse and loosely connected it's
terminals via soldering,but adapter did'nt worked,its dead.
Right tpye of fuse is not available in Canadian famous electronics
shops(Future,Circuit City/Radio Shack,Canada Tyre,Wall Mart etc).

Mike Berger wrote:
That's right, it's not a really common fuse to find in
stores since it's not replaceable by the average consumer.
Try a TV service shop, or mail order one.

Thaqalain wrote:

There is no way,I can open Printer Adapter made in Mexico,I don't why
they designed it to be locked.
I have used a different monitor fuse and loosely connected it's
terminals via soldering,but adapter did'nt worked,its dead.
Right tpye of fuse is not available in Canadian famous electronics
shops(Future,Circuit City/Radio Shack,Canada Tyre,Wall Mart etc).

Just get the current correct. Almost any 'type' of fuse will work if
you get it connected. Do I correctly surmise from the above that you
got a fuse connected, but the adaptor still didn't work?

In that case you're barking up the wrong tree. Something else is wrong.
A new fuse is only either going to A) blow again, or; B) not blow, but
the adaptor won't work, either.

jak

I feel either fuse was failed or soldering having voids inside.I will
retouch adapter at coming weekend.

Can I solder normal fuse cap terminals(without wire legs)directly to
previous solder spots.

Yes, but not easily. The ends are plated, and you won't be able
to solder to them without filing off some of the plating. Then
you'll have to be careful that the heat from soldering doesn't
damage the fuse wire or its own connections to the terminals.

Thaqalain wrote:
Can I solder normal fuse cap terminals(without wire legs)directly to
previous solder spots.

Despite being warned not to use other fuse,I have successfully solderd
pigtail type fuse 125V-4A taken out from an old TV to old soldered
spots instead of 250V T1A specified
But as in past I took out AA size,3.6V,Tadiran Lithium
Inorganic Battery for atleast 24 hr,it seems that BIOS data is
disturbed and Laptop showing configuration error due to coprocessor.
Why this time performance of Adapter is very well as in past the
adapter in it's original shape has heated supply cord to Laptop.This
time cord is not hot,its looking miracle.Why adapter running very well
except one of LED is not lighted?
Is there any future failure expected?Will I go ahead fixing LAptop
configuration setting based on this adapter's durability if it favors
during Laptop life?

Thaqalain wrote:
Despite being warned not to use other fuse,I have successfully solderd
pigtail type fuse 125V-4A taken out from an old TV to old soldered
spots instead of 250V T1A specified
But as in past I took out AA size,3.6V,Tadiran Lithium
Inorganic Battery for atleast 24 hr,it seems that BIOS data is
disturbed and Laptop showing configuration error due to coprocessor.
Why this time performance of Adapter is very well as in past the
adapter in it's original shape has heated supply cord to Laptop.This
time cord is not hot,its looking miracle.Why adapter running very well
except one of LED is not lighted?
Is there any future failure expected?Will I go ahead fixing LAptop
configuration setting based on this adapter's durability if it favors
during Laptop life?


fire ... burning ... conflagration ...

:-)

--
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minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

If it is ,chances were likely more in the past when power supply cord
was heated moments after Adapter connection to Laptop?

Support your response with technical reasoning.

Thaqalain wrote:

If it is ,chances were likely more in the past when power supply cord
was heated moments after Adapter connection to Laptop?

Support your response with technical reasoning.

It's never a good idea to replace a fuse with the wrong size.

You may have jostled something while working on it, making it appear
to be ok, but it could fail again, this time with compromised safety
components.

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The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Thanks CJT,topic still open for technical reasoning!

How technical do you have to get to realize that replacing a 1A fuse with a
4A fuse can lead to problems? The unit was designed to be protected with a
1 amp fuse. If something shorts in the unit that draws more current, you
may damage other components before the large fuse opens.

Higher current produces more heat. Very simple concept.

You could easily have an intermittent component or connection that cused the
excessive current that heated the cord. If it draws excessive current again
you could easily damage the device or even cause a fire.

Just put the correct fuse in the unit. The T1 is a time delay or slow blow
fuse, BTW, so a normal action 1A may blow prematurely if the device has a
large inrush current or sees a surge.

Leonard

"Thaqalain" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks CJT,topic still open for technical reasoning!

Thaqalain:
Heck with the "technical reasoning"..... how about COMMON SENSE. Logic
would dictate that you should be looking for the fault that makes the
specified proper value fuse blow.

As in most of your recent past postings you have demonstrated that you
SHOULD NOT be working on electrical devices...
.... particularly when you don't understand why you shouldn't replace SAFETY
related components like fuses with a higher rating than the manufacturer
specified. Doing this can easily result in fire, smoke, electrical shock
hazard, collateral damage, etc.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Thaqalain" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks CJT,topic still open for technical reasoning!

Daniel u right,I am sorry for not caring safety.Last night I have seen
same adapter some time blinks sometimes solid green.Meanwhile my note
book is not getting on power after closing it's case.