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Tube TV damaged during move - Help!
I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped
out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came with it. I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!! See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it. http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg |
wrote: I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came with it. I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!! See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it. http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg Hi... It's called an so59 or so259 - my old mine forgets which, so someone else? Pick one up at Radio Shack or equivalent where you live... though seeing as the can has been ripped a little you may need a couple of washers as well. The red wire seen sticking out of your chassis connects to the center terminal on the new socket; the mounting itself provides the ground. Take care. Ken |
On 1 Jun 2005 13:51:18 -0700, "b" wrote:
wrote: I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came with it. I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!! See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it. http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg look at picture 2. there seems to be a metal prog/pin protruding slightly from within the hole where the coax jack used to be. if you are lucky, soldering a new piece of coax cable with a coax socket on it (to plug your aerial into) may be all that is needed. You'd solder the centre pin of the coax lead to that protrusion, and the braid to the metal can's shielding. And if the live chassis protection has been compromised? Maybe unlikely given the look of this picture, but if that blocking capacitor has shorted, you'll blow a fuse or two. Tom good luck, Ben |
You simply need to order and replace the antenna isolation block. Between $7.00 and $20. Looks like the one you have solders to the main board with 4 large tabs. MCM Electronics has several as well as MAT electronics. I would not bother with trying to repair the broken block due to the low cost, easy availability, and safety aspects of the part. David wrote: I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came with it. I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!! See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it. http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg |
Good advice. Best to replace a broken isolation block unless you clearly
understand its function. Even then it is hardly worth the effort. Leonard wrote in message oups.com... You simply need to order and replace the antenna isolation block. Between $7.00 and $20. Looks like the one you have solders to the main board with 4 large tabs. MCM Electronics has several as well as MAT electronics. I would not bother with trying to repair the broken block due to the low cost, easy availability, and safety aspects of the part. David wrote: I just moved and in doing so my TV was damaged. The cable was ripped out of the back and part of the TV (where you screw in the cable) came with it. I have pictures of the part that was damaged but I don't know what it is or where to buy a part to replace it. Help!! See pictures below - it's the shiny silver box with a hole in it. http://207.54.123.12/TV_1.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_2.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_3.jpg http://207.54.123.12/TV_4.jpg |
The old “F’ fitting was just press fitted into place…not to mechanically stable against a hard cable YANK.
At least the disc ceramic input capacitor is still intact with adequate wire length. If you are proficient at soldering you can get this F-61 connector: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=278-212 and unsolder the 4 \2 tabs mounting the isolation block to the chassis and straighten out the deformed hole and install that fitting without its control nut…[unless there is some remote chance that there is enough room to install that retainer nut internally if the cap leaves enough room inside ] and then the caps wire is soldered to the connectors center pin terminal. If it requires soldering the ground shell into the exposed hole, you pre-tin both pieces joining surfaces separately and then do a reflow soldering, it requires a heavy iron or soldering station due to the heat being carried off. Also, done as a quick operation to keep from melting the plastic pellet inside that is retaining the center pin connector. An immediate blast of freeze spray or inverted “canned air” on completion (the solder joints non-plastic state), suffices. You’re certainly lucky that this intermediate isolation block averted your yanking a “F ‘ fitting out of the tuner proper …sitting back at the end of the RCA plugs link….the way most other sets are built. 73’s de Edd |
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