Just got a schematic from Pramac - current owner of the Powermate brand.
It's an Italian company. Homelite owned the brand for a while.

Sort of threw me when I looked at the schematic. PWR1 and PWR2 windings are
the output of the generator (110/220V). AVR is the Automatic Voltage
Regulator which may be part of the problem. EX1/EX2 look to be part of the
stator and provide AC to the rectifier / Cap which in turn feeds DC to the
AVR module. Would guess that the field winding (armature) is the coil marked
+/- at the bottom. Not shown but it is fed by brushes. This is not a
brushless generator.

"Module I.C." is the automatic Idle control that drops engine to idle when
there is no load. Commonly used on construction sites when driving only one
large tool.


============
Need to troubleshoot a broken generator.
Powermate Vertex 7500W
Model PM0557523.9

Found owner's manual and parts list but no schematic / wiring diagram.

Anybody have some resources? The usual googling just gave me more of the
same. Tried re-exciting the field to no avail. lead had come off of the
capacitor and looks to have been sparking against something. Trying to make
sense of what might have failed.

On Wed, 30 Nov 2011 17:21:12 -0500, "Oppie" wrote:

Just got a schematic from Pramac - current owner of the Powermate brand.
It's an Italian company. Homelite owned the brand for a while.

Sort of threw me when I looked at the schematic. PWR1 and PWR2 windings are
the output of the generator (110/220V). AVR is the Automatic Voltage
Regulator which may be part of the problem. EX1/EX2 look to be part of the
stator and provide AC to the rectifier / Cap which in turn feeds DC to the
AVR module. Would guess that the field winding (armature) is the coil marked
+/- at the bottom. Not shown but it is fed by brushes. This is not a
brushless generator.

"Module I.C." is the automatic Idle control that drops engine to idle when
there is no load. Commonly used on construction sites when driving only one
large tool.


============
Need to troubleshoot a broken generator.
Powermate Vertex 7500W
Model PM0557523.9

Found owner's manual and parts list but no schematic / wiring diagram.

Anybody have some resources? The usual googling just gave me more of the
same. Tried re-exciting the field to no avail. lead had come off of the
capacitor and looks to have been sparking against something. Trying to make
sense of what might have failed.

---
Customer Service: 1-888-977-2622
Technical Service: 1-800-445-1805
Email:

--
JF

"Oppie" wrote in message
...
Just got a schematic from Pramac - current owner of the Powermate
brand.
It's an Italian company. Homelite owned the brand for a while.

Sort of threw me when I looked at the schematic. PWR1 and PWR2
windings are
the output of the generator (110/220V). AVR is the Automatic Voltage
Regulator which may be part of the problem. EX1/EX2 look to be part of
the
stator and provide AC to the rectifier / Cap which in turn feeds DC to
the
AVR module. Would guess that the field winding (armature) is the coil
marked
+/- at the bottom. Not shown but it is fed by brushes. This is not a
brushless generator.

"Module I.C." is the automatic Idle control that drops engine to idle
when
there is no load. Commonly used on construction sites when driving
only one
large tool.


============
Need to troubleshoot a broken generator.
Powermate Vertex 7500W
Model PM0557523.9

Found owner's manual and parts list but no schematic / wiring diagram.

Anybody have some resources? The usual googling just gave me more of
the
same. Tried re-exciting the field to no avail. lead had come off of
the
capacitor and looks to have been sparking against something. Trying to
make
sense of what might have failed.




What does it not do?

If no output is the first guess, try flashing the field.
Disconnect the EX connection and feed 12V DC into one of them. Will
setup a mag field and allow everything to start up.

Cheers

"Martin Riddle" wrote in message
...

"Oppie" wrote in message
...
Just got a schematic from Pramac - current owner of the Powermate brand.
It's an Italian company. Homelite owned the brand for a while.

Sort of threw me when I looked at the schematic. PWR1 and PWR2 windings
are
the output of the generator (110/220V). AVR is the Automatic Voltage
Regulator which may be part of the problem. EX1/EX2 look to be part of
the
stator and provide AC to the rectifier / Cap which in turn feeds DC to
the
AVR module. Would guess that the field winding (armature) is the coil
marked
+/- at the bottom. Not shown but it is fed by brushes. This is not a
brushless generator.

"Module I.C." is the automatic Idle control that drops engine to idle
when
there is no load. Commonly used on construction sites when driving only
one
large tool.


============
Need to troubleshoot a broken generator.
Powermate Vertex 7500W
Model PM0557523.9

Found owner's manual and parts list but no schematic / wiring diagram.

Anybody have some resources? The usual googling just gave me more of the
same. Tried re-exciting the field to no avail. lead had come off of the
capacitor and looks to have been sparking against something. Trying to
make
sense of what might have failed.




What does it not do?

If no output is the first guess, try flashing the field.
Disconnect the EX connection and feed 12V DC into one of them. Will setup
a mag field and allow everything to start up.

Cheers


Owner's manual describes how to re-energize the field (leave a residual
magnetism that will bootstrap up to full output with the generator
spinning). It recommends a 6V lantern battery. I would suspect that using a
higher voltage might stress components on the voltage regulator board.

No output so far. As described in original posts, found a wire had come
loose from the capacitor and had evidence or arc marks. Going to take a
closer look today to see what might have been killed.

"Oppie" wrote in message
...
"Martin Riddle" wrote in message
...

"Oppie" wrote in message
...
Just got a schematic from Pramac - current owner of the Powermate
brand.
It's an Italian company. Homelite owned the brand for a while.

Sort of threw me when I looked at the schematic. PWR1 and PWR2
windings are
the output of the generator (110/220V). AVR is the Automatic
Voltage
Regulator which may be part of the problem. EX1/EX2 look to be part
of the
stator and provide AC to the rectifier / Cap which in turn feeds DC
to the
AVR module. Would guess that the field winding (armature) is the
coil marked
+/- at the bottom. Not shown but it is fed by brushes. This is not a
brushless generator.

"Module I.C." is the automatic Idle control that drops engine to
idle when
there is no load. Commonly used on construction sites when driving
only one
large tool.


============
Need to troubleshoot a broken generator.
Powermate Vertex 7500W
Model PM0557523.9

Found owner's manual and parts list but no schematic / wiring
diagram.

Anybody have some resources? The usual googling just gave me more of
the
same. Tried re-exciting the field to no avail. lead had come off of
the
capacitor and looks to have been sparking against something. Trying
to make
sense of what might have failed.




What does it not do?

If no output is the first guess, try flashing the field.
Disconnect the EX connection and feed 12V DC into one of them. Will
setup a mag field and allow everything to start up.

Cheers


Owner's manual describes how to re-energize the field (leave a
residual magnetism that will bootstrap up to full output with the
generator spinning). It recommends a 6V lantern battery. I would
suspect that using a higher voltage might stress components on the
voltage regulator board.

No output so far. As described in original posts, found a wire had
come loose from the capacitor and had evidence or arc marks. Going to
take a closer look today to see what might have been killed.

If it’s the cap off the EX windings, then there would be no voltage for
the regulator to run.
I guess EX is for 'Exciter', which basically needs the residual
magnetism in the armature? to generate the startup voltages.
It should work once you fix that cap.

It is interesting that they only regulate off of the PWR 1 winding. PWR
2 does not go back to the regulator.
Unless it's just a power takeoff for the regulator and they use the EX
windings for regulation.

The Craftsman I have has a resonant transformer for the exciter to
regulate the output. Not as complicated as the powermate.

Cheers

"Martin Riddle" wrote in message
...

If it's the cap off the EX windings, then there would be no voltage for
the regulator to run.
I guess EX is for 'Exciter', which basically needs the residual magnetism
in the armature? to generate the startup voltages.
It should work once you fix that cap.

It is interesting that they only regulate off of the PWR 1 winding. PWR 2
does not go back to the regulator.
Unless it's just a power takeoff for the regulator and they use the EX
windings for regulation.

The Craftsman I have has a resonant transformer for the exciter to
regulate the output. Not as complicated as the powermate.

Cheers


Would guess the power output windings are bifilar wound so the outputs
should match rather well... except for winding resistance. Then again, I
believe some of the cheaper units use aluminum wire for the windings. This
would have a higher resistance.

Not certain but thought that Sears private labeled Powermates.

"Jim Thompson" wrote in
message ...

Don't buy GM products and it'll never be an issue ;-) Magnetized
rotors and headlights-always-on... so GM could save one piece of wire
from ignition switch to regulator.

...Jim Thompson

Only time this was ever a problem was on the 1 wire marine alternator on a
friends boat (Ford 351M). Because everything has to be flame arrested so a
spark in the engine compartment won't ignite any fumes, they often use only
the rectified output as a single terminal connected to the battery. The
idiot light connection and battery sense are tied together inside the case.
Problem was that you practically had to red-line the engine to get the
alternator to start outputting. I finally gave up and put another
feedthrough in the case for the idiot lamp. Connected it conventionally
through a pilot lamp (and diode) to the + igniiton coil (switched battery).
From then on it would generate at idle.
Adding the diode is an old trick dating back to the '70 when 'engine run
on' was a big problem. Jim knows this since he designed automobile
regulators. Diode keeps the idiot light from turning on when you shut down
the engine. Without it, current flows through the idiot lamp from the field
supply to the ignition coil. Gives just enough spark to make the engine keep
running (poorly) or even backwards depending on how much basic spark advance
there was.