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flipper wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:40:43 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


flipper wrote:

On 9 Jul 2008 09:41:29 GMT, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2008-07-06, flipper wrote:

Having the fuse on the input to the variac provides progressively less and
less protection as the voltage setting is reduced - finally providing none
at all.

Well, even an output fuse isn't 'perfect' because max current at mid
scale is less than at 1-1 so if you 'protect' mid scale you limit the

assuming the device is wound all the way with the same gauge of wire
max current output near mid scale is more than anywhere else (except at
exactly 100%, or 0% where the only limit is the current handling capacity of
the wiper!)

You need to tell these folks about it, then.

http://www.ietlabs.com/Variac/Variac_How_To_Select.html

"An autotransformer cannot supply as much current at midrange settings
as it can at full-voltage setting without overheating. "



Think about it: When the output voltage matches the input voltage,
the transformer isn't even used. It is simply an unloaded transformer
primary connected to the AC line voltage. At any other voltage, the
current is determined by wire size. If the Variac is configured to put
out more than the line voltage, you have the same limit at the highest
voltage as you do at the midpoint.


I suggest that while you're thinking about it you also think about
what was said, which was "max current at mid scale is less than at
1-1." 1-1 is not "more than the line voltage." (The original 'problem'
was someone burring up their "500VA" variac at 50V and that's what all
the discussion was about, not step up.)



What is your problem? I broke it into two prats for clarity. I read
what you wrote, but as alays, you are busy sorting fly turds from
pepper.


The "constant impedance" rating, however, is usually 25-30% higher
than the "contestant current" rating. Constant impedance means it's
down to the constant current rating at 75% line voltage, and less for
lower, but for the top 25% you can pull more current than the
"constant current" rating.

As for above line voltage, it depends on how much. The "constant
current" rating is usually good for 120%, or so, but at 150% line
voltage it's 75% of rated current and if you voltage doubled it would
be 50%.



I have never seen a Variac that put out 150% of the input. The
common Staco trasfomers are 120 VAC in, with either 120 VAC max, or 140
VAC max.


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"John Byrns"


Wrong, think again, at the midpoint the wiper is feed by two "wires"
carrying equal currents, while when set to boost the voltage, only a
single wire is feeding the wiper, so the current capacity at the
midpoint is twice the current capacity in the boost position.



** Can no-body get this *simple* device right ??

1. A variac is rated to supply the SAME current at any setting.

2. At the mid position, the current in the windings is half that in the
load.

3. When set near the minimum or just below the 1:1 position or 10% boosted,
a small fraction of the winding then carries virtually the same current as
the load.

4. When set at the 1:1 position, load current passes through a few turns
only - depending on the design.

In #3, the dissipation *per turn* is for times that in #2 - but the
small number of turns involved are cooled by conduction by the adjacent and
relatively cool core structure.

The result is that the temperature rise of any part of the winding is
closely the same at any setting.

Point #1 is valid.


...... Phil


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"flipper"

http://www.variac.com/staco_variable...rmer_2510_.htm

Model 171

Constant Current rating 1.75A
Constant Impedance Rating 2.2A



** Utter drivel.

Not industry standard terminology or rating method.




..... Phil




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"flipper"


Not true. A normal three wire device has no fuse. The panel breaker
protects it.


The panel breaker does not protect 'devices'. It protects the building
wiring.



** It protects both the installed cabling and any AC supply cabling
associated with appliances.

****WIT.



...... Phil






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"flipper"
"Phil Allison"
"flipper"


Not true. A normal three wire device has no fuse. The panel breaker
protects it.

The panel breaker does not protect 'devices'. It protects the building
wiring.



** It protects both the installed cabling and any AC supply cabling
associated with appliances.

****WIT.


Wrong, "****WIT."



** Nope - it is correct.

There is no requirement for appliances to have AC fuses fitted and a great
many do not.

The only protection is provided by the supply circuit fuse / breaker.

User replaceable ( ie cartridge ) AC supply fuses on appliances protect
NOTHING.


YOU COLOSSAL ****ING IDIOT !!!




...... Phil






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"flipper"
"Phil Allison"
http://www.variac.com/staco_variable...rmer_2510_.htm

Model 171

Constant Current rating 1.75A
Constant Impedance Rating 2.2A



** Utter drivel.

Not industry standard terminology or rating method.


That *is* the "industry standard terminology."



** ********.

The standard terminology is to quote a VA figure and an Amp figure that can
be drawn at any setting.

The example you quote has NOTHING to do with any point previously made by
you.



....... Phil




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"flipper"


** **** off !!!!

- you know nothing DAMN TROLL




..... Phil





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flipper wrote:

"Phil Allison" wrote:
"John Byrns"

Wrong, think again, at the midpoint the wiper is feed by two "wires"
carrying equal currents, while when set to boost the voltage, only a
single wire is feeding the wiper, so the current capacity at the
midpoint is twice the current capacity in the boost position.



** Can no-body get this *simple* device right ??

1. A variac is rated to supply the SAME current at any setting.


http://www.variac.com/staco_variable...rmer_2510_.htm

Model 171

Constant Current rating 1.75A
Constant Impedance Rating 2.2A


Nit-picking.

Graham

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On 2008-07-09, flipper wrote:
On 9 Jul 2008 09:41:29 GMT, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2008-07-06, flipper wrote:

Having the fuse on the input to the variac provides progressively less and
less protection as the voltage setting is reduced - finally providing none
at all.

Well, even an output fuse isn't 'perfect' because max current at mid
scale is less than at 1-1 so if you 'protect' mid scale you limit the


assuming the device is wound all the way with the same gauge of wire
max current output near mid scale is more than anywhere else (except at
exactly 100%, or 0% where the only limit is the current handling capacity of
the wiper!)


You need to tell these folks about it, then.

http://www.ietlabs.com/Variac/Variac_How_To_Select.html

"An autotransformer cannot supply as much current at midrange settings
as it can at full-voltage setting without overheating. "


my statement is in full agreement with theirs

At full (100%) setting the autotransformer is simply acting as a shunt
choke, it's not participating in the load current at all.

But, I now see that even though the lowest currents are flowing
in the windings with the wiper in the middle, total I-squared-R peaks
there, so although that gives the most even distribution of heat it
also gives the most heat.

So even though the individual turns are putting out nearly 4 times as much
heat when the knob is at 95% than they do at 50% that localised
heating isn't an issue as it's only 5% of the turns?

I had assumed that with a variac, given that it has a single layer of
turns most of the cooling would be from the indiidual turns straight
to the air. and that localised heating would be more significant than
total heat. Was I wrong?

Bye.
Jasen
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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:51:52 +0100, Eeyore
wrote:



StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
flipper wrote:
Patrick Turner

The fuse didn't blow though.
The fuse is on the input.
But it was rated for 500VA, you'd think that'd mean that for
50Vout, Iout could be up to 10A.

I can see why you'd think so but they don't work that way. The VA
rating is at the nominal '100%' line voltage but many brands won't
even give you that VA number because the limiting factor is current.

Simple.

In that case it should be AMPERE rated NOT VA rated.

IEC basics.

Graham

The amperage required to blow a fuse does not change because one
changed the operating voltage of a circuit. It is an inline fuse, it
does not care about a voltage ever, and the current required to blow it
is based on the type and construction of the fusing element it uses.

Fuses and breakers are two different animals.


I believe the correct response is 'whoooosh'.

Graham


You're an idiot. When a fuse blows, it goes "pop".


Its a rocket fuse.




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StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt writes
On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:51:52 +0100, Eeyore
wrote:


I believe the correct response is 'whoooosh'.

Graham


You're an idiot. When a fuse blows, it goes "pop".


Oh, I don't know. I once blew a 100A fuse. I recall that it went ever so
slightly louder than a "pop".
--
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Ian Jackson wrote:

Oh, I don't know. I once blew a 100A fuse. I recall that it went ever so
slightly louder than a "pop".



There is a 60A 7200V fuse a block from here that sounds like a
shotgun when it bl;ows.


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On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 22:38:51 -0500, flipper wrote:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 12:36:08 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


"flipper"


Not true. A normal three wire device has no fuse. The panel breaker
protects it.

The panel breaker does not protect 'devices'. It protects the building
wiring.



** It protects both the installed cabling and any AC supply cabling
associated with appliances.

****WIT.


Wrong, "****WIT."


---
LOL, Phil's right, as usual :-)

Consider:

If a premises' and an appliance's wiring have conductors sized to
carry the normal load current of that appliance with no problem, then
the power that wiring will be required to dissipate will result in a
temperature rise in either which won't present a hazard as far as risk
of fire is concerned.

If, however, because of a fault in the appliance the current through
them (and their attendant rise in temperature) rises to the point
where a fire hazard could become imminent, it's the circuit breaker's
job to disconnect the mains from whatever's causing the problem.

If it's the toaster, or whatever, then the circuit breaker opening up
will disconnect the appliance from the mains and allow the premises
wiring and the appliance's power input cable to cool down to the point
where danger from a fire will be averted.

So, Phil's:

"** It protects both the installed cabling and any AC supply cabling
associated with appliances."

is spot on, wouldn't you agree?

JF
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"John Fields"
"Phil Allison"

** It protects both the installed cabling and any AC supply cabling
associated with appliances.


---
LOL, Phil's right, as usual :-)

Consider:

If a premises' and an appliance's wiring have conductors sized to
carry the normal load current of that appliance with no problem,



** Installed wiring has to comply with safety codes and regulations - so
their temp rise is *well within* safe limits while ever the breaker holds
onto the load.

Plug-in appliance leads are also subject to safety codes and regulations,
there is a minimum copper cross section requirement that covers all but a
few special cases ( eg shavers where the appliance must have internal
protection for the flimsy lead).

So, even quite low VA appliances will have AC leads well capable of carrying
large enough currents to trip the AC supply breaker under fault conditions.

AC line fuses installed INSIDE appliances provide energy limiting and * some
* fire hazard protection for whatever is inside the appliance plus the
connecting in some cases too.

Despite this fuse protection, internal component parts of the appliance can
still catch fire and ignite PCBs and plastic cases. TV sets and PC monitors
are notorious for this hazard and many house fires have been started this
way and people have lost their lives.

If OTOH, a maker fits a user accessible AC line fuse to an appliance- that
is no fire safety protection at all. Reason being, that Mr or Mrs consumer
will typically replace any blown AC fuse with a BIGGER one and remove all
damage and fire protection.

Now:

In the case of a bench variac ( fitted with AC outlet socket and supply
lead ) - this is not a regular appliance as sold to Joe public. What it IS
a piece of electrical test equipment - so not subject to the same
restrictions as domestic appliances.

All bench variacs I have seen come in sturdy, earthed steel cases with a
pattern of ventilation slots to allow cooling - there is usually a fuse
holder on the front next to the AC outlet socket and the fuse is wired in
series with the outlet wiring to PROTECT the variac from overload damage !!

Of course, you can put any damn size fuse you like in there - but as the
intended operator is technically trained person, they take responsibility
for the outcome onto themselves.

Far as an additional fuse in the AC line goes, fine by me, but not essential
for safety nor fire hazard reasons.

Why?

If due to abuse or whatever, the winding on a variac's core develops shorted
turns, the AC current drawn from the supply will suddenly rise and keep on
rising as more turns burn and form a copper mass.

Then one of following things happens:

1. The temperature at the site of the burning is high enough to melt the
copper wire and open the winding = game over.

3. With multi kVA models, case #1 may not be reached before the AC current
draw is so high it trips the breaker in the premises' AC supply.

If the winding insulation flames, the fire is contained inside the *steel
box* and so cannot spread beyond - very soon case #1 or case #2 will
follow, thereby removing the source of energy and the fire will self
extinguish.



...... Phil






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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt"

Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall outlet
as "The AC Mains".

The AC Mains is a reference to the MAINS entry point, ie the breaker
panel.



** But an AC wall outlet connects an appliance to the MAINS !

So it is often referred to the supply of MAINS power.

Appliances are said to be MAINS powered as opposed to wall wart or battery
powered.

Restricting the word " MAINS " to the entry panel is a mindset adopted by
electrical engineers & electricians only.

Usage defines meaning and usage VARIES with different groups of people.



....... Phil






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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt"


Tell us, idiot... How many REAL WORLD applications in a test lab call
for hooking up a variac, yet keeping it set to 1:1. Isolation needs?
Nope, one uses an isolation transformer for that.

Even when testing an auto-switching power supply, one swings from 85 V
thru 265 V, and only stops at 1:1 momentarily to glance at the working
performance parameters at that set point.

Most folks use a variac at nearly any setting except 1:1, and even
though that maker might make some lame declaration of a slightly higher
capacity when set at 1:1, the fuse will still blow at its rated break
point.



** An audio repair workshop will typically use a medium size ( like 500
VA or 1kVA ) variac to bring items like power amplifiers that are known to
be faulty OR have just undergone repairs up to AC line voltage - watching
for smoke or other signs of trouble as they go.

IF all is well, then the variac is set to exactly 1:1 - so the item
under test can be put through its paces with the variac's windings causing
the LEAST possible increase in AC supply impedance.

The reason is, few if any variacs have a bypass switch and it is tedious to
keep removing the AC plug from the variac and moving it onto an AC wall
outlet in order to get a low impedance AC source - essential for measuring
the power output of a large audio amplifier with accuracy.



...... Phil


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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt"
"Phil Allison"

Usage defines meaning and usage VARIES with different groups of people.


Yes. Like little loops placed where two wires intersect but do not
touch (which would be a node) on a schematic... or not.

I say it is archaic. At best.



** Have to disagree there.

Some time back, I purchased a service manual for a 2000 watt stereo power
amplifier ( the EV 2.0 kW ) which includes a pair of switching PSUs.

To my total horror, I found that throughout the many pages of schematics,
not one black dot was to be seen where any lines crossed.

The manual was produced in Korea - as was the amplifier and sold under the
EV brand round the world. When I complained to the people who supplied the
manual to me and was told all copies of the manual were like that.

Took many hours to figure out where black dots needed to be and insert them.


....... Phil




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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt"
"Phil Allison"

Usage defines meaning and usage VARIES with different groups of
people.

Yes. Like little loops placed where two wires intersect but do not
touch (which would be a node) on a schematic... or not.

I say it is archaic. At best.



** Have to disagree there.

Some time back, I purchased a service manual for a 2000 watt stereo power
amplifier ( the EV 2.0 kW ) which includes a pair of switching PSUs.

To my total horror, I found that throughout the many pages of schematics,
not one black dot was to be seen where any lines crossed.

The manual was produced in Korea - as was the amplifier and sold under
the
EV brand round the world. When I complained to the people who supplied
the
manual to me and was told all copies of the manual were like that.

Took many hours to figure out where black dots needed to be and insert
them.



With the key reference being "some time back..."



** God you are one dumb, insightless, literal ass.

Looping all the line crossovers would have avoided the problem - ab initio.




...... Phil


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"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt Total ****wit "

Most folks use a variac at nearly any setting except 1:1, and even
though that maker might make some lame declaration of a slightly higher
capacity when set at 1:1, the fuse will still blow at its rated break
point.



** An audio repair workshop will typically use a medium size ( like 500
VA or 1kVA ) variac to bring items like power amplifiers that are known to
be faulty OR have just undergone repairs up to AC line voltage


( snip drivel)


- watching
for smoke or other signs of trouble as they go.


Bad move. Watch for high input current.



** So this dumb as dog **** cretin cannot read.


Actually, the best way to
"watch" is with a thermal imager.



** ROTFLMAO !!!!!!!!!


IF all is well, then the variac is set to exactly 1:1



( snip more drivel)



- so the item
under test can be put through its paces with the variac's windings causing
the LEAST possible increase in AC supply impedance.



( snip more asinine drivel)


The reason is, few if any variacs have a bypass switch and it is tedious
to
keep removing the AC plug from the variac and moving it onto an AC wall
outlet in order to get a low impedance AC source - essential for
measuring
the power output of a large audio amplifier with accuracy.


Actually, the output should be charted at various line voltages,



** ********.

This cretin has not got the tiniest clue.


The
difference is that most audio amps cannot handle the swing from 85 to 265
VAC like switcher fed devices.



** Ya don't say ???

Totally wipes all of your asinine opinions out.



........ Phil



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On 2008-07-12, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and "the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live calls
the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that stupid
****, boy.


Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall outlet
as "The AC Mains".


So you've taken over the whole world in only 2 days?

It started off as as a term of apparenly only local signifigance, but
now "NOBODY" speaks different to your way?

Bye.
Jasen


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In article ,
flipper wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 14:30:00 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


"StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt"
"Phil Allison"

Usage defines meaning and usage VARIES with different groups of people.

Yes. Like little loops placed where two wires intersect but do not
touch (which would be a node) on a schematic... or not.

I say it is archaic. At best.



** Have to disagree there.

Some time back, I purchased a service manual for a 2000 watt stereo power
amplifier ( the EV 2.0 kW ) which includes a pair of switching PSUs.

To my total horror, I found that throughout the many pages of schematics,
not one black dot was to be seen where any lines crossed.

The manual was produced in Korea - as was the amplifier and sold under the
EV brand round the world. When I complained to the people who supplied the
manual to me and was told all copies of the manual were like that.

Took many hours to figure out where black dots needed to be and insert them.


I don't know if they did it correctly (would seem not if you had to
add dots) but the 'new' style is to not have any connections that
appear as line crossings. 'Connections' should always terminate into
the line so a line crossing is, by the 'new' definition, never a
connection. I.E. if the old version would appear as two lines crossing
with a dot indicating a connection then the 'new' way is to split and
offset the opposing ends of one line so they terminate into the (now)
third and do not appear as a continuous line crossing it.

I.E. (in fixed font)

|
|
|
-----------o
|
o------------
|
|
|


The following is always 'no connection' whether a smudge or poor copy
makes it 'appear' to have a 'dot'.

|
|
|
|
-----------|------------
|
|
|
|
|



While I'm aware of this 'new way' I still do it like you, with line
crossings and a dot, if connected.


Are you sure this is the "new way", I thought it has been "the standard"
for at least 40 years. Then there is the European way with those funny
angled connections.


Regards,

John Byrns

--
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In message ,
StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt writes
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 05:08:20 -0500, flipper wrote:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 22:43:01 -0500, flipper wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 19:42:05 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 21:28:39 -0500, flipper wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jul 2008 18:32:34 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 03:28:23 -0500, flipper wrote:

Cos by then, it has already burned out.

So you might as well set fire to everything back to the mains breaker,
eh?


Can you really be so stupid as to think that would or could ever happen?

Take the hot from ANY US AC feed. Ground it... ANYWHERE. To the fault
return, to the neutral, or to a hard concrete slab, it is STILL going to
pop the panel breaker!

Fire? The breaker would blow within milliseconds.

Just because one plugs a variac in, doesn't mean that the device
suddenly negates all the protections that are inherent in a US AC power
distribution system.

I took a literary license in saying "back to the mains breaker." A
shorted winding would be a potential hazard in the variac and it's
wiring to the mains.

No, it would not.

Yes, it would.

The wiring in the wall has a breaker that is rated
to protect it, whether from instantaneous short or long term excessive
current heating, and keep said wiring below any flash point temperatures.

"In the variac and it's wiring to the mains" is not "in the wall."

You are right that the main breaker is designed to protect the
building wiring but that is a 2kVA, or higher, circuit, not 500VA.

No, one does NOT plug a ten amp variac into a 2kVA source. One only
needs to use a standard 15 Amp circuit branch.

A 500VA Variac is not "a ten amp variac."


Other countries don't use individually breakered star connections and
the mains ring kVA is even higher.

ALL installed lines are still protected from instantaneous shorts
causing wire heating or flash point temperatures from being generated.
That is the whole purpose of the breaker in the panel. You could not
show me a situation where you take three conductors from a wall outlet
and configure them to cause a wiring flare-up in the wall. Sorry.

English must be your second language. I didn't say "in the wall." I
said "potential hazard in the variac and it's wiring to the mains."


Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and "the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live calls
the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that stupid
****, boy.


"Mains" is the term for AC power 'in the wall' (so you can grasp the
meaning), as in the AC mains.


Essentially, because of YOUR poor grasp of the language of the
industry, nobody knows what the **** you are spewing about.


It's your ignorance that's the problem and if you didn't understand it
you could have asked instead of being a jackass. So
StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt


Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall outlet
as "The AC Mains".

The AC Mains is a reference to the MAINS entry point, ie the breaker
panel.

"Power outlet" or "Wall outlet" or "AC Receptacle" is the reference for
the place where we attach our AC powered devices. So I still contend
that it is you that caused the "confusion".

You're the goddamned jackass


Be aware that, in the UK, the thing on the wall (where you plug your AC
powered devices) is usually referred to as a 'mains socket' and, on
occasions, a 'wall socket'.
--
Ian
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On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:08:33 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:

subj: you are

On 2008-07-12, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and "the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live calls
the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that stupid
****, boy.


Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall
outlet
as "The AC Mains".


So you've taken over the whole world in only 2 days?

It started off as as a term of apparenly only local signifigance, but now
"NOBODY" speaks different to your way?

Bye.
Jasen


We call him ProngTard. He came to one group bragging about his 32" LCD tv,
his copy of Windows Vista and Microsoft Office and his big pool stick.
I haven't seen someone made fun of like he was made fun of in a long time.


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Default What is wrong here ?


"Napoleon Blownapart" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:08:33 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:

subj: you are

On 2008-07-12, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and "the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live calls
the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that stupid
****, boy.


Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall
outlet
as "The AC Mains".


So you've taken over the whole world in only 2 days?

It started off as as a term of apparenly only local signifigance, but now
"NOBODY" speaks different to your way?

Bye.
Jasen


We call him ProngTard. He came to one group bragging about his 32" LCD tv,
his copy of Windows Vista and Microsoft Office and his big pool stick.
I haven't seen someone made fun of like he was made fun of in a long time.



Prongo the drongo IIRC.


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Default What is wrong here ?

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 13:58:18 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 14:28:55 -0400, Napoleon Blownapart
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:08:33 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:

subj: you are

On 2008-07-12, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and
"the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live
calls the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that
stupid ****, boy.

Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall
outlet
as "The AC Mains".

So you've taken over the whole world in only 2 days?

It started off as as a term of apparenly only local signifigance, but
now "NOBODY" speaks different to your way?

Bye.
Jasen


We call him ProngTard. He came to one group bragging about his 32" LCD
tv, his copy of Windows Vista and Microsoft Office and his big pool
stick. I haven't seen someone made fun of like he was made fun of in a
long time.

You're an idiot. You were an idiot then, you're an idiot now, and you
will always have a pathetic existence, "making fun of people".


I didn't brag about my huge 32" LCD tv, my copy of Vista and Office, my 10
dollar bottle of beer or my huge pool stick. You however did and were made
an obvious and complete fool for doing so.



  #106   Report Post  
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Default What is wrong here ?

On Sun, 13 Jul 2008 01:05:32 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 19:03:33 -0400, Napoleon Blownapart
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 13:58:18 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 14:28:55 -0400, Napoleon Blownapart
wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jul 2008 12:08:33 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:

subj: you are

On 2008-07-12, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 02:38:04 -0700, StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
wrote:

Where I live "the mains" ARE the ****ing breakers, dip****, and
"the
outlet" is what one plugs into at the wall. NOBODY where I live
calls the goddamned wall outlet "the mains". So **** off with that
stupid ****, boy.

Look, dumb****, I DO understand it. NOBODY refers to their wall
outlet
as "The AC Mains".

So you've taken over the whole world in only 2 days?

It started off as as a term of apparenly only local signifigance, but
now "NOBODY" speaks different to your way?

Bye.
Jasen

We call him ProngTard. He came to one group bragging about his 32" LCD
tv, his copy of Windows Vista and Microsoft Office and his big pool
stick. I haven't seen someone made fun of like he was made fun of in a
long time.

You're an idiot. You were an idiot then, you're an idiot now, and you
will always have a pathetic existence, "making fun of people".


I didn't brag about my huge 32" LCD tv, my copy of Vista and Office, my
10 dollar bottle of beer or my huge pool stick. You however did and were
made an obvious and complete fool for doing so.



You're an idiot.


Hi Kettle this is Pot. You're black!

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