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#1
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned
open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al |
#2
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
I would venture to say that the inside wall of the tank has galvanic
corrosion and will fail shortly. Most folks don't bother to drain off a few gallons of water from the faucet on the bottom of the heater much less replace the Zinc anodes. Draining off the water removes sediment that forms from heating water that contains dissolved minerals. Minerals precipitate out and eventually coat over the heating elements. This causes a hot spot that accelerates failure. There are usually two heaters in the tank. the one that failed is the lower one? Zinc anodes should be replaced or checked at 5 years or so. They are generally accessed by screwing out a plug on the top of the tank. I heard that some are attached to (can't remember) the water inlet or outlet pipe. Got to disconnect the plumbing and screw out the fitting. "Al" wrote in message ... Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al |
#3
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
In article K79Qi.1215$pl2.654@trndny09, "oppie"
wrote: I would venture to say that the inside wall of the tank has galvanic corrosion and will fail shortly. Most folks don't bother to drain off a few gallons of water from the faucet on the bottom of the heater much less replace the Zinc anodes. Draining off the water removes sediment that forms from heating water that contains dissolved minerals. Minerals precipitate out and eventually coat over the heating elements. This causes a hot spot that accelerates failure. There are usually two heaters in the tank. the one that failed is the lower one? Zinc anodes should be replaced or checked at 5 years or so. They are generally accessed by screwing out a plug on the top of the tank. I heard that some are attached to (can't remember) the water inlet or outlet pipe. Got to disconnect the plumbing and screw out the fitting. "Al" wrote in message ... Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al Sorry, but I forgot to mention that the unit is just over a year old. I do admit it must be a cheap unit. However, my son, whose unit it was, said that there have been no other failures in his condo of 35 units. All of which are less than 2 years old. Al |
#4
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
"Lynn Richardson" wrote in message ... On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 19:22:27 GMT, Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al The main parameter that controls electric heater element lifetime is power vs surface area and mineral accretion depth. As the mineral depth increases (adding to the thermal resitance to the water) the heater wire temp goes up, eventually to the point it either breaks (potentially creating a disastrous temporary electric arc) or melts the insulating tube it runs through allowing water to hit the hot wire, making for a nice steam explosion in the tube. Cheapy water heaters use the smallest element size possible to reduce costs. This makes the temperature gradient from the wire to the water higher than a larger elements. When replacing it, pick the largest physical element size available for the same wattage/voltage rating. This will give a much longer lifetime since the heater wire runs at a lower temperature. I'll agree with that. If in doubt, go to a plumbing supply store rather than one of the big boxes for the replacement heater. You'll pay a bit more but they will generally give you good advice. |
#5
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Sorry, but I forgot to mention that the unit is just over a year old. I do admit it must be a cheap unit. However, my son, whose unit it was, said that there have been no other failures in his condo of 35 units. All of which are less than 2 years old. Al They should last years and years.... Maybe a shoddy builder/plumber fitted a second hand one in your case? |
#6
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 10:35:33 GMT, "TT_Man"
wrote: Sorry, but I forgot to mention that the unit is just over a year old. I do admit it must be a cheap unit. However, my son, whose unit it was, said that there have been no other failures in his condo of 35 units. All of which are less than 2 years old. Al They should last years and years.... Maybe a shoddy builder/plumber fitted a second hand one in your case? Oh, always looking for evil in this world... g I'd guess when they built the tank, the assembly line worker accidently nicked the element inserting it into the hole. This does happen (maybe too often?) and damages the anti-corrosion coating on the element letting it fail too soon. Another possibility (more remote) is some contamination in the incoming water. A third possibility si that the installer accidently powered it up before it was full of water, overheating and damaging the element but not destroying it (he was slightly lucky). I'll agree: they should last for at least four years if the water is acidic, and longer if it is PH neutral. |
#7
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Al wrote:
Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. -- Paul Hovnanian ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Procrastinators: The leaders for tomorrow. |
#8
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
In article ,
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! Al |
#9
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Al wrote:
In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#10
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Joerg wrote:
Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. -- Etaoin Shrdlu |
#11
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#12
Posted to alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
In article ,
Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Nothing to pick. It came with the condo. Al |
#13
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Joerg wrote:
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ professor; n, One who talks in someone else's sleep. |
#14
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
In article ,
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? Yeah, and we've been building cars for over a hundred years and they still have failures and poor ergonomics. And they are designed all over the world crappily. (Is that a word?) Al |
#15
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? I guess because we excel in other areas. Close to 100% of all processors in PCs are designed in the US. When it comes to bare bones electricity gear and distribution things are more, ahem, kludgy. There are power poles around here where sag and leaning make me take a little detour when walking our dogs. Sometimes I used to call utilities about one or the other situation and they didn't do anything. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#16
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Al wrote:
In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? Yeah, and we've been building cars for over a hundred years and they still have failures and poor ergonomics. And they are designed all over the world crappily. (Is that a word?) Not the Japanese ones. Failure rates on both our Mitsubishi and the Toyota in 10 years: Zero. Not the slightest hick-up. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#17
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Joerg wrote:
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? I guess because we excel in other areas. Close to 100% of all processors in PCs are designed in the US. When it comes to bare bones electricity gear and distribution things are more, ahem, kludgy. There are power poles around here where sag and leaning make me take a little detour when walking our dogs. Sometimes I used to call utilities about one or the other situation and they didn't do anything. That's maintenance, not engineering. I doubt the field engineer spec'd the poles leaning 2' out of plumb. On the other hand, its getting difficult to find any electrical power gear designed and/or made in the USA. I keep running into Siemens, Square-D, etc. -- Paul Hovnanian ------------------------------------------------------------------ It is not enough to succeed. Others must fail. -- Gore Vidal |
#18
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Burnt Electrode - Rod.JPG (1/1)
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: Joerg wrote: Al wrote: In article , "Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote: Al wrote: Any ideas as to why my son's electric hot water heater electrode burned open? It was cathastrophic! The electrode was replaced and all is OK. Al [Image] The way that the entire element is curved makes me think that it was severely overheated (probably run dry) at some time. If the insulation were to fail at one point on an otherwise intact element, the damage would probably be localized to that one spot. I think you're right. As far as I know, it was the only one to fail in that condo complex so early, but still after the warranty expired. Grrr! There should have been a thermo-switch preventing overheating. Should have ... maybe pick a better brand next time you need one. Heck, even our little hot water dispenser has that secondary protection. Ok, that one is non-resettable but still $1.50 for a thermo-fuse sure beats $150 for a heater. Problem: The overtemp thermo switches are mounted on the tank near the element. They will react to an overtemp condition with a full tank properly. But the element hanging in air will need to reach a very high temperature in order to conduct enough heat along its length to the tank in order to trip the safety switch. On ours it was mounted right at the root of the element. That location would get hot really fast if there wasn't any water. That's a better design than ours. So how did we come to be the sole remaining superpower in the world with such crappy engineering? I guess because we excel in other areas. Close to 100% of all processors in PCs are designed in the US. When it comes to bare bones electricity gear and distribution things are more, ahem, kludgy. There are power poles around here where sag and leaning make me take a little detour when walking our dogs. Sometimes I used to call utilities about one or the other situation and they didn't do anything. That's maintenance, not engineering. I doubt the field engineer spec'd the poles leaning 2' out of plumb. Specifying a wooden pole at all is in many cases already an engineering flaw. I have seen poles that began to look lousy very few years after being placed. Every engineer out here who does that should take a look under the deck of an older house. That would cure them. Then they strung new wires about half a mile from here at a location where there is a huge digger pine. It has already shed a humongous branch, is very obviously quite sick, is oozing sap and leaning. Towards the HV lines. Pathetic. On the other hand, its getting difficult to find any electrical power gear designed and/or made in the USA. I keep running into Siemens, Square-D, etc. Same here, mostly ABB. I guess Square-D used to be domestic and is now Schneider. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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