I'm not completely stupid, so YES I do have a structural engineer,
=A31600 so far and still counting. Quote for replacing/renewing steels
is ~=A313k including some other stuff I haven't described. I generally
find it helps to be informed before speaking to my structural engineer
since I last did any beam calculations at Uni ~12 years ago. That's why
I asked for anyone with experience of doing it/seeing it done to
comment.
I am also aware that any deflection took place when the inadequate
steel was put in before. The point still remains that the house dropped
when the steel was put in due to its inadequacy (the deflection on the
steel doesn't need to be measured it can be seen with the naked eye)
and I'd like some of it back.
Anyway back to the first point, of course I will speak to the
Structural engineer I just want to go in armed with suggestions, so far
it's definitely helped me to get what I want in terms of design.

Further practical advice welcomed.

Fash

wrote:
Fash wrote:
I'm sure the answer's here somewhere but I can't find it. Lots of
information about Americans jacking up their houses but since these are
mostly stapled together it's not really relevant to my 1750 townhouse!
The problem is that at some point in the 50's the previous owners of my
house took out a wall in the basement and on the ground floor without
putting in proper support. The beam they used in the cellar went in
sideways (H beam instead of I beam which is about a quarter of the
stiffness.) As a result there is a significant deflection on the beam
in the cellar which translates into a bow in the floor at ground and
first floor level.
I'm having it dealt with by putting in new steels at first floor and
ground floor level. The question is what is the best way of raising the
floors back to approximately level before putting the new beams in? I
don't really want to just preserve the existing bow although some
unevenness will remain after jacking.
Is it is simple as tightening the acrows until they lift the structure
or would I (or at least my builder) be better off using a second set of
Acrows with hydraulic jacks to do the lift with the original acrows
then raised to take the load. This way I could raise it a little on the
hydraulics and then move up the screw jacks to maintain the lift.
Anyone done this before?
All advice (although especially good advice) welcomed.

Fash


If the only thinkg you need to move is a suspended wood floor, it can
be jacked up on car jacks, removing loads off the floor first. It can
then all be propped while the steelwork is removed.

If OTOH you wish to move a structure that supports a wall, as others
have said I wouldnt consider it at all, not without expert advice at
the minimum.
=20
=20
NT