In message , Darren Griffin -
PocketGPSWorld writes
Set Square wrote:
Probably. You could bottom this out by disconnecting the pump from its
current supply (junction box, or whatever) and putting a 13amp plug
with 3 amp fuse on the end of its lead. Plug this into a 13amp socket
(with the help of an extension lead if necessary) and see what
happens. If the fuse blows, it's pretty conclusive.

I'm about to give up on fixing this and call a pro, the only problem is, is
this an electrician's job or a heating engineer? I'm not rolling in cash
and would like to get this fixed in one hit, I don't fancy paying for a
hetaing engineer only for him to say it needs an electrician after I have
forked out for his call out fee

If you look at the cost of calling someone out, it would be cheaper to
just buy a pump and replace the old one

When you find the pump, tell us whether it has a valve on each side of
the pump - if so you can change it without draining down the system.

When I say easy, it depends how easy it is to undo the connectors

You can be sure that there is enough expertise in this group to lead you
through doing it (unless you listen to IMM, in which case it's bound to
leak)

--
geoff