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Alasdair
 
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Default undoing cast iron soil pipe joint

Thanks for your effort typing that in. Really aprriacteded.
To make sure I understand what you said, I've got a few clarifcations
below.



"BigWallop" wrote in message ...
Right, once you get everything ready you tell the neighbours what you're
doing and not to use the loo as you do the job, or you'll end up with jobs
on your toilet floor.

You need to free the spigot of the bend into the wall.


Am I correct in thinking:
Spigot: The main shaft of pipe B.
Bend: This is just the socket that I can see protruding through the
wall (Pipe A).



The stone/brickwork
around it should be large enough to allow you to make quite a big hole
through the wall.


I'm not sure where the wall comes in. As I understand it, the socket
that will be remaining (pipe A) will not be moveing, and the socket
end (i.e. the union between pipe A and pipe B) is clear of the wall,
so I can't see where the wall comes in. Perhaps there is something I'm
missing.


Keep all the big bits that come out of the wall so you
can use them again to fill the hole back in when you're done.


Infact its just a 9mm ply 'wall' with a few wooden battons. Its just
there to cover up the pipework.


Once you get the spigot cleared you'll find it easy enough to waggle around
the pipe that's atached to it.


Nots sure I get this, maybe I've misunderstood spigot.
Basically, the union between pipe A and pipe B is on my side of the
wall and 'clear' of the wall. I have also (previously) removed the WC
from pipe B, and pipe B seems absolutly solid in pipe A.


The waggling around will ease the lead joint
but it has to be done firmly but gently so that the pipe begins to move
freely but doesn't break the sides of the old spigot, so move it little bits
at a time with your hands and don't bash it about with hammers and things.


OK. Can I tap it with a rubber mallot. The lead is pretty damned hard,
not sure if just my hand-force will make much impression.

When the pipe is moving quite freely you should find it easy to get a narrow
chisel in the joint to dig the lead out.


OK, I can just about get a 3mm drill into the lead, down to some fiber
(presuably the rope), the lead is about 4 cm deep!. Using this I've
managed to dig out a hole the size of a french been!

The socket appears to be tapered (i.e. wider at the open end, then
tapers in).
This lookes like it was filled with molten lead. Looking at it, I'd be
surprised if anything would move before I have got out a lot more lead
out.

Getting just a 5mm 'french been' hole in it took a couple of hours,
access and angles are pretty poor.


It takes a bit of patience and a
lot of jabbing with the chisel for the first ten minutes or so until you see
any great progress, but stick with it for this time and you'll be able to
remove the pipe in one go and keep it in one piece.



OK


Every time you chip a load of lead out, waggle the pipe around in a circle
again until the pipe gets looser and looser.


Can't seem to get any movement so far, but I guess if I can take out
some lead it will get better.




The lead wil get easier and
easier to remove the more you do this. When you get down to rope caulking
is the time when the pipe will lift in one whole piece. Remember to waggle
the pipe firmly but gently and don't move it huge distance or you'll break
the sides off the spigot.

When you get the caulking rope is the time you go tell the neighbours not to
use their loo while remove the old pipe and install the new one. Once you
have the new pipe in place you ca nuse the old caulking rope to wrap around
the pipe and press it down into the spigot to keep the new plastic pipe in
the centre of the spigot end. Whe nthe pipe is firmed in with rope you can
fill the spigot with a sand and cement mixture and support it until it dries
out and goes solid. Or you can fill the joint with silicone sealant from
the gun type tubes you can buy. This too needs to be supported until it
cures off and this can, in both cases, take up to 24 hours.

Keep the end of the pipe that stick into the room covered with a damp cloth
or jam it with screwed up newspaper to keep the smells out of you house and
allow your neighbours to use the loo again without stinking your home out
with last night curry.

Because you're on the ground floor of this building, you should be able to
do this job in a couple of hours from start to the point where you're
letting the pipe joint set hard and everyone above using their loo again.

Tools needed:

Hammer and brick bolster (to remove the stone, mortar fro maround the spigot
in the wall)
Narrow wood chisel 1/4'' (under 10mm wide that you'll never use again on
wood, so get a really cheap one just for this job)
Tube of silicone sealant or gutter seal and an applicator gun
Any other tools needed to remove things from around the inside where the
pipe is

Please don't try to use the lead again because when it's hot it melts its
way through the plastic pipe quite easily. :-))

Good luck with it.



Thanks again.
clarification of the above points would be most useful. - check I'm
not completely going off in the wrong direction!

Thanks

Alasdair