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Wade Garrett Wade Garrett is offline
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Default Bad 3-Way Switch-- Again

On 6/15/21 3:02 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 15 Jun 2021 14:39:07 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote:

On 6/15/21 1:32 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Wade Garrett writes:
On 6/15/21 11:44 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Marilyn Manson writes:
On Tuesday, June 15, 2021 at 10:54:31 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Wade Garrett writes:
A couple of years ago, I replaced a pair of little-used (and only during
the summer) standard 20 amp Leviton 3-way toggle light switches
controlling a Hunter Original ceiling fan because at least one of the
switches had failed.

I installed the same then-current model Levitons and everything worked
fine for a few years. And don't you know, at least one of them has just
now failed!

The original switches and the fan were installed during a room addition
construction project by a licensed electrician hired by the general
contractor whom we've used for years and does very good work.

What are the chances of this being just a random second switch failure
vs. needing to get an electrician out to check it over?
The chances are high that you've got a problem that should be
looked at.

Just for the sake of discussion, what problems can you think of that would
break a 3-way switch?

Obvious signs of arcing, loose connections, etc.

'nuf said.

Two failures on something as ultra-reliable as a Leviton switch?

Was the correct switch chosen for the application? Switching motor
loads isn't the normal job for a residential light switch.

What would be the right switch to use?

It's a 20 amp switch on a 20 amp circuit. There are several outlets on
that circuit-- but the fan is the only thing the switch controls. Hunter
says the fan draws 2 amps.

When you say 'failed', what do you mean? Does the switch physically
allow the toggle to move, or is it stuck? Does it move, but not close
the contacts (failed off) or move but not open the contacts (failed on)?

The fan only turns if the A switch and the B switch are both in the DOWN
position.

The fan does not turn with any if the other possible combinations of UPs
and DOWNs.


We are assuming it worked OK for a while and quit, you do seem to have
one switch that is not switching. Do they both feel the same when you
operate them?
The other possibility is a bad connection on one of the travelers. Did
they use the screws or stabbed

Both switches feel normal to throw up or down.

Wire connections solid-- correct strip length and tightly looped CW
around correct terminals.