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T i m T i m is offline
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Default Halogen to be banned

On Wed, 09 Jun 2021 17:14:34 +0100, Scott
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jun 2021 16:22:46 +0100, Scott
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jun 2021 16:11:48 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Wed, 09 Jun 2021 15:57:24 +0100, Scott
wrote:

snip

Even better, you can get direct substitutes. I bought two four foot
long LED tubes for the utility room, which fitted the existing ballast
after replacing the starter with a dummy.

I've *just* picked up a high output 5' LED florry replacement for a
fitting in the study / workshop but the fitting is electronic so I'm
going to have to bypass all the 'guts'.


Did it not come with a replacement 'starter', which just shorts out
the starter unit or does this only work with non-electronic ballasts
(as mine was)?

The main reason for doing it isn't (primarily) the light but the hope
it will get rid of the mains hum ... ;-(


It achieved that.


PS Now I remember. I think it comes as two versions: one for
electronic ballasts and one for non-electronic. Mine was the latter
(which I think is easier).


Yeah, the two I did for the kitchen were 'old skool' and I removed the
ballast and cap completely on one and just wired it though the
non-starter (because mine had 250mA fuses in them) and the other still
has the ballast and cap in circuit (for now).

Remembering this particular unit was HF got me thinking that I should
have replaced the entire fitting for an LED one, however I think I'm
better off saying with the 'tube' design as then I can swap out the
tubes if they fail or if I want to change the usage (less bright,
warmer etc) without replacing the entire unit.

I'm probably also going to include that lamp into the HA with an
occupancy sensor as I'm generally only turning it on when working in
there or setting up the 3D printer. I'm getting too used to the hall,
kitchen and landing lights going on and off automatically (movement /
occupancy) it seems quite 'primitive to have to still turn some on and
off yourself. ;-)

Cheers, T i m