I don't have any new stuff. I don't want them. I have A 43 YO gas dryer. Right now, I have to replace the unobtainable ignitor I have about 6 spares. I found out, I can manually light it with a spark for a short time before it finally won;t light at all.

Not too long ago, I did a major rebuild and really discovered that I need to do a major PM every 5 years and a minor one yearly, so i made that much easier to do.

There is a bearing around the fan. If it fails, all sorts of problems happen. I don;t know how to 3- print the seal. but in 40 years, the grease dried out. The NOS replacement had to have the grease replaced. What would really help is a electronic slip detector for the blower. I re-did the grease and changed the set screw to a brass-tipped one. I would like the set screw to fail.

I still need to re-build the lint catcher. I'll try to take some more measurements when I put the ignitor back in. I;ll even try to determine the wire used, cold resistance, hot resistance, voltage and current.

What I did on the last rebuild is I made it possible to remove the blower assembly easily by adding about 8 thumb screws and rivet nuts. On the previous service, I put rivet nuts on the outer panels.

The washer spits out the lint and clogs the drain. So, i made a proof-of-concept external sock filter and then borrowed a friend's lathe and made it really easy to clean the sock.

So, the most important thing, i think you can do for an electronic appliance is to add surge suppression. I did that to a Carrier AC and I had mechanical button problems on the thermostat. The electrical problem was a wierd one where the backlight continued to stay on. The fix was to turn the HVAC system off for about 3 weeks and add surge suppression. Earlier I had to add a filter because the ECM motor was interfereing and breaking power line controls like X-10. The surge suppressor was a bidirectional 24VAC rated TVS diode installed at the furnace. A $2.00 part.

I have a story which really bothered me. Tracor-Northern had a multi-channel analyzer that we were using on an SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) to make a crude EDS (electron dispersive x-ray analyzer) and it died twice repair was like $1000 for a $5000 USD instrument. It died after a storm. We had the schematic and there was absolutely no power line protection. I added an ISOBAR and no more problems. Tracor-Northern said their specs said 120V 60Hz for power and we and we obviosly exceeded that.

The best surge suppression so far is a power conditioner (Isolation transformer) AND a a surge supressor from OneAC/ Powervat such as the ISOBAR, That method outperforms everything short of a UPS. The ISOBAR give you a connected equipment warranty and they honor it. I;d use it for a washer/dryer.

Sometimes, surge suppression can be cheap and other times expensive.

Whole house is also possible with and without an isolation transformer. With an isolation transformer the magnetocs limit the high frequency from getting to the other side. A word about isolation. It is and it isn't. The neutral-ground bond isre-made after the transformer.

Maybe the washer guys should put all of the relays on a separate, replaceable board.

Power Condition, save the receipt, exercise the protected equipment Warranty.