On Wed, 17 Mar 2021 11:36:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:
On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 10:47:28 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Mar 2021 19:04:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote:
This might work for me, but I'd have to add the DC port and lose the bag
that I have under my saw now. Not that that would be a bad thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKILf1o7RTY
Perhaps make the lever on the back side rather than the middle? You'd
be able to keep the bag.
That might work but the torque wouldn't be centered. The slide piece would
be off to the side also and the imbalance might be an issue.
I'll watch the video more carefully and see if that will be a problem. It's worth
a test in any case.
I've also seen these on sale for about half what they want he
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-retracting-casters
I bought a few of these for work benches for $25 each, IIRC. I
remember that they were really cheap (or I wouldn't have jumped on
them).
Something like those might help, but I think I'd still have 2 fixed wheels.
The way my TS is stored I only have access to 2 sides, the front
(sort of) and the left side. My lift lever is currently on the left side
which allows me to raise the left side of the TS and pull it straight
out. The first 12" of movement has to be straight because the right
side of the saw (the router table end) literally resides in a hole in
the wall.
That brings up a point that I wanted to make about the Bora bases.
Mine, at least, has the lift levers in the front and a flange that
mounts the wheels higher (axles tend to be at the center of wheels)
than the frame. These make for great trip hazards. This is another
reason to off-center the lift lever in the home-grown design we were
discussing.
My shop is in a basement room that was added when an addition
was added on the first floor. When I first moved in, the window
was still in the original exterior wall. Basically an exterior window
between 2 rooms (the shop and the rest of the basement) I took
the window out and boxed in the opening, making a set of recessed
shelves.
The opening, as shown below, is *just* wide enough for my TS to slide
into, giving me a much needed extra foot of space in my small shop.
The lift lever is right below the feather boards.
https://i.imgur.com/F2sD4KY.jpg
Interesting use of space.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-workbench-caster-kit-4-pack
I have a router table in place of the right side extension wing and a
Delta T2 fence. Just used it all to make a medicine cabinet for the
bathroom re-do.
How do you like the router in the extension table. I always thought
it was a good idea but others say that it's always in the way. They
use both tools often and it's always set up for the wrong one. Having
a good fence on both would be nice too.
I really like it, especially considering the alternative: a portable, set-it-up-every-
time-I-need-it-and-then-it's-too-frigging-high-to-be-used-safely benchtop router
table. BTDT
I know what you mean. I had a router table that went with my original
"X-Acta" lift, which was an early (early) rebadged JessEm, I think. It
has to be 20 years old. Anyway, it came with a chest-high table.
I don't have room for a permanent floor standing router table nor a permanent
benchtop unit, which is usually a POS anyway. Too small of a table, not sturdy,
etc.
Agreed. I won one at as a door prize at Highland a few years ago. It
was a nice one but I gave it to a friend. It might have been useful
as a portable but would just take more space than it was worth. He
didn't have a table, so...
As shown in the image above, mine is the perfect height, as wide as the TS and
deep enough for the things I need it for. It's almost 5" deeper than what you see
in the image because the far end is under a narrow shelf. In addition, the original
extension tables for the Craftsman 113 saws are not flat. There's a 1" border
that's level with the cutting surface, but the whole center of the extension is
recessed by about 3/16". With the router table, my entire surface is completely
flat.
Yes, I see. Did you make the table? How hard was it to mount to the
saw? It can't be supported on the base, so is it just hanging there?
My father had a craftsman 60+ years ago. It had the cast iron web
extension tables (double). It also had the finger-killer motor,
exposed, hanging off the back. Those were the days that one was
expected to know that table saws were dangerous. Bubble wrap hadn't
been invented yet so mothers hadn't started wrapping kids in it from
birth.
Obviously, the router table can be "in the way" if the bit is above the table or
the fence is installed, but that inconvenience is minor compared to the
convenience of having a decent router table available whenever needed.
It the blade up, though I don't leave the blade up unless I'm using
the saw. I'd have thought you'd use the TS fence for both.
Having a good fence on both would be nice too.
The Delta fence (seen hanging on the wall) makes a Craftsman 113 saw a
whole different animal compared to one with the stock fence. You would
not believe how badly the sock fence was designed.
I know what you mean. I always thought a fence grabbing in the front
and back was a good idea and that the fence twisting every time it was
tightened was a feature. FEnces clamping at one end wouldn't be
strong enough. Then I figured out that you're not supposed to hang on
the fence.
If you look *directly* above the router table end in the hole in the wall, that
black object sitting on a narrow shelf is the back of the router table fence. It's
an old fence from a portable router table. I added "wings" so that I can clamp
it to the TS fence rails. It's obviously not perfect but it provides a dust collection
port, a split sliding face and a T-track for feather boards, etc. It serves my needs.
I thought you'd just get one of these:
https://incra.com/table_saw_fences-tsls_combos.html ;-)
Just a few minutes ago I used the TS to rip a narrow board and then used the
still-installed beading bit to put a profile on it. Neither fence got in the way of
the other, but obviously that's going to be project specific.
For any one with a small shop that struggles with finding room for both tools,
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend combining them like I did.
I was considering it some time ago before we bought this house. It's
still an idea because of the stability and accuracy of the saw table.
My saw has 52" rails so it's not small. A router at the end wouldn't
completely block the saw. I rarely (never?) use anywhere near the
width of the saw anymore. I could probably ditch the table and not
miss it at all. The rails would be a jewel killers though.