View Single Post
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
[email protected] krw@notreal.com is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,833
Default Titebond III must be a very different animal.

On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:20:27 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2020 2:27 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I bought some Titebond III recently. I didn't need it to be waterproof but I liked the idea of longer open time for a little less stressful gluing. I had used TII and TI in the past.
I used it to glue up that butcher-block-style table top. I'm "recycling" the wood which is currently finished with poly, I think. I'm going to sand off the old finish anyway so I didn't bother trying to meticulously remove the squeeze-out, especially on the bottom.
I got a pretty generous gob of glue on the (chrome) bar of a Jorgensen Cabinet Master clamp. (I had left the clamps on for just about 24 hours - yes, I know I didn't need to) In my previous experience with wood glue, stuff like that would flick right off. Not so this time. It was stuck but good; had to use a knife to pry it off bit by bit.



Ah TiteBond. LOL I only use TB III and it failed the water proof test
more than a decade ago when tested by a magazine. In fact the TBI
proved to be more water proof than the TBIII. I had fun with that one
when mentioning it to Franklin.

I have not checked lately but back then the "Spec" sheet for water
proof, that TB used, was labeled water proof but no where in the
definition were the words water proof. Water Resistant was in that
Water Proof Spec sheet...

And yes as previously mentioned a touch of wax will help with the glue
and really makes the clamps easy to slide along the rail.


Cold or hot wax?