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Jim Wilkins[_2_] Jim Wilkins[_2_] is offline
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Default Milling wood saw blade steel

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ...

On 11/4/2020 5:41 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I'm trying to design a sharpening jig for my bandsaw mill blades that

uses a hand-held Dremel ...
While I don't have direct experience I can refer you to YouTube where
there are a few bandsaw mill blade sharpening videos. A few show
commercial sharpening systems that I found to be very educational. Most
seem to us a diamond blade or wheel. The time per tooth for basic
carbon or even HSS teeth is very short.

I think a simple ratchet dog and a quick clamp would work for indexing.
Set the angles for your sharpener twice per simple blade. Once for left
set and once for right set. Due to varying blade lengths the tooth
count may not come out even so always remember to paint/mark your blade
so you don't start accidentally reverse sharpening teeth when you get to
the end.

For my upright and horizontal bandsaws I have pretty much decided that
sharpeni8ng is not worth my time when I can buy M42 blades made to
length. If I had a large gap (low pitch) bandsaw mill blade I might be
tempted to sharpen. I do have one carbide tooth blade that might
marginally be worth sharpening instead of replacing... and its dull.

Thanks. My 4G LTE Internet was absorbed by another ISP who offered me a nice
introductory rate of $4 per GB for a while, but has reverted to their normal
$10/GB rate, so I try to stay below 50~60 MB per day and avoid videos, at
least until I finish the outdoor projects and can take time to use the town
library's WiFi. I've looked at several text + photos descriptions of home
made blade sharpeners.

If I decided to sacrifice the factory gullet shape I could mill a blade
holding fixture for my chain saw sharpener to grind only the straight front
rake (hook). I think the commercial sharpener sets the teeth left, center,
right first and then grinds them all the same way, a straight-across rip
grind instead of an angled cross-cut like a hand saw.

The tooth pitch is a large 3/4" and the 3 tooth set pattern makes keeping
track of where I am pretty easy. I've already deburred and reset two poorly
done blades, the reason for considering making a sharpener. It's easier with
the blades on the saw which holds them more firmly than my hand wants to.
The weld is an obvious starting and stopping point where the pitch is
uncertain, a consideration for indexing the teeth from adjacent ones to
leave the gullet open for the cutter.

The real question which I didn't state explicitly was whether or not the
cutter types I listed can cut fileable spring steel with a reasonable life.