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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default lox vs. star head screw

On Tuesday, October 20, 2020 at 12:32:14 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/18/2020 5:41 PM, Leon wrote:

FWIW GM started using the Torx screws/bolts in the mid 70's. I'm sure
they were around before that. LOL.
It finally got to the WW industry.
Too, Ford was looking for a better screw than the straight head design
waaaaaay back when.
Philips won out over Robertson.

About 15 years ago I had to replace the power window regulator in my
wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee. I first researched the issue on YouTube.
To remove the door panel, a bunch of standard Phillips screws. The Arm
rest had two screws, one visible Phillips, and one Torx 25 buried 2 1/2"
in a small hole in the arm rest. Anyone would have figured that screw
would be a Phillips, like all the rest. Fortunately, the guy on Youtube
warned that screw was not a Phillips but a torx 25. I swear they did it
so only the dealer would know, and guys like me would be fumbling around.

Anyway, Jeep wanted $400 to replace the actuator. I got it on Amazon for
$100 and it took about 30 minutes the first time, 15 minutes when the
other side broke. BTW, both times it was a 15 cent plastic part that
broke, but you had to buy the whole goddammed actuator, motor and all.


Honda Odyssey power sliding doors. Notorious for snapping the cable.
Basic aircraft type cables with a couple of crimped on connectors. One
cable to pull the door open, one to pull it closed.

The ends of the cables at the motor are attached in such a manner that
they can not be removed. The entire motor assembly has to be replaced.
$350 for the part, dealers want $800 for the job. (You have to take half
the interior apart to get to the motor and jack the door up to keep it
from falling off the vehicle.)

It took me most of a Saturday to do it, but I saved the $500. Replaced a very
worn roller while I was in there. That's a $50 part and almost $200 in dealer
labor if done separately.