On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 8:52:05 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Why isn't the switch at the pump? How are you going to get power from the house to the pump, without new a new power line?

After all this confusion - I expect that the OP means to "control" the pump from the house. If I can interpret the issue (risky, always).
a) The house has a back-up generator.
b) The line to the pump is from the house, but the power to the tank is from the shop, not backed up.
c) The pressure switch is at the tank.

I interpret this to mean that a 120V pressure-switch is controlling a 240V pump, powered by two different sources. Which is flat-out nuts.

I am interpreting (again, risky) that the OP wants the controls at the pump.

So, the 120V source at the shop will control a 240V (hopefully) contactor at the pump.

All the while forgetting that if there is a power-failure, that 120V source will be dead - so, no water.

Clue 1: The tank does not care where it is in the system.
Clue 2: The tank will be perfectly happy staying where it is, with all controls, pressure-switch, contactor and so forth at the pump - in suitable enclosures, of course.


He could have easily buried a new power line to the tank when he installed the plumbing, as well. I am rebuilding my pumphouse and rewiring it. It will have a couple AC Ammeters and a line voltage meter to monitor the pump's health, along with a one minute lockout between pump cycles. Te old pump failed, but All I could check was the voltage, since there were no current transformers in place. One till monitor the current to the run winding,, the other will show total current. The voltmeter's use is obvious. The timer is to prevent overheating of the start capacitor, if the potential relay fails, again. I have a new submersible pump, and two pump control boxes, so it an be swapped out without waiting for spare parts. The old pump lasted 22 years. That is a long life, with Florida's very hard water.