On Thursday, July 2, 2020 at 9:12:17 AM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 02 Jul 2020 08:01:21 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 01 Jul 2020 21:13:42 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Greetings

Seeking the collective wisdom of the Internet on a remodeling
project.

The Project of the summer is to put a window in the shed. (I
should have done this two years ago when I was rebuilding said shed.
"If I'd known then what I know now, I'd have done a whole lot of
changes from what I did.)
I have two sliding window panels (the remains of an 8 foot wide
five foot high unit. sort of like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-95-5-in-x-47-5-in-V-2500-Series-White-Vinyl-Universal-Reversible-Sliding-Window-with-Fiberglass-Mesh-Screen-Sierra-2VSLD-8040/202035708)

Anyway, the issue is The Header. The thing which goes at the top
of the wall and transfers the load "elsewhere" First question: does
it need to be a 4 x 8, or can two 2x8s be nailed together and made to
work?

Secondly the wall I want to put the window into is 'load bearing',
specifically, those studs have the joists supporting the loft
attached. Unlike the north or south wall which are just holding
themselves up. Originally I was willing to cut the studs under the
joists, and install the header under the joist. But .. that puts the
bottom of the window below the (eventual) bench top. (If my
calculations are correct, the bottom of the window is at 21 inches
height, and the bench top is at 30 inches. That will provide
ventilation under the bench.)
If I cut the joists loose (propping them up _before_ I start
sawing) I could raise everything up by 1 Joist height (six inches, if
memory serves). This still leaves the bottom of my windows below the
bench top, but ...

The alternative is to go buy a shorter window, but I don't want to
waste money of things like that when I need to get some tools.


What size is the opening ?
You say that you're using the 2 sliding windows from an 8 foot
window unit - and leave us to guess that size - gee thanks.
You could leave a doubled tripled stud in-between the 2 windows
and have half the span to worry about - ie: no worries.
John T.
Also, doing a "sub-standard" job - window too big or whatever, just
to use a "free" window generally ends up being "false economy" as you
will have to look at the results for YEARS!!!! Let the moths out of
the wallet and find a window that more accurately fits your
requirements - and mabee build a hothouse for the wife with the
existing windows to produce salad fixings theoughout the year - - -

Not to mention that any plan to put a window directly behind - below the
top - of the workbench needs to include protection for the window. I have 2
work surfaces, both of which are up against the drywall. The dings and dents
smell very much like a broken window.

Oh, there's a gap between the back of the workbench and the glass? I hope
there's a "backsplash" on the workbench. Otherwise, good luck retrieving
anything that falls off the back of the workbench.