A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation.
The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window.
The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9"
short of touching the casing.

The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this
gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the
casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can
frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and
bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top
and bottom edges.

Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating
mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent),
dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and
isn't very difficult to do.

RB

Jeff Wisnia wrote:


OK wrote:

I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't
close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays
open
far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and
grab
it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved
into
the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the
nicer
weather, I need to get this operational.
Thanks



There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is
nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough
to cause what you are experiencing.

Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a
wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm
stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to
move just before it's fully closed.

If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the
windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem.

Good luck,

Jeff