View Single Post
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
Arlen G. Holder Arlen G. Holder is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 134
Default How the heck does a typical home transfer switch work?

On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 21:25:30 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Let me guess... State Electric Generators formerly in Harvey West
Park? They moved to Scotts Valley:
https://www.stategen.com
High prices and so-so work. You could do worse. State does much
better work than what I saw in your photos which suggests that they
were fixing something.


You are pretty good Jeff, as these are the two stickers on the cover
https://i.postimg.cc/GmMxjVLY/transfer27.jpg

I generally obfuscate where I live, but suffice to say I can probably see
your house from where I am, or close to it.

Try this video. Notice that the relays switch based on the condition
of one input wire labeled "transfer".
"Generac automatic transfer switch explained, demo"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT_3JYZS9Mg


I'm glad the narrator said he couldn't find out how it worked online, which
is exactly the type of answer I'm asking about here.

At 34 seconds he explained what that cryptic "194" meant!
https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg?t=34
And he explained what that cryptic "23" meant on my panel!
https://i.postimg.cc/tgDN6rqM/transfer06.jpg
Whe
o 23 === ground
o 194 === +12VDC
So I can now test the two-fisted solenoid by putting 12 VDC across them,
which is what the generator should do, which will "transfer" the power from
line power to generator power. (This is what I've been doing manually with
the mechanical lever.)
https://i.postimg.cc/HxWxgCnd/transfer28.jpg

The narrator then showed that when the PG&E power is restored, the
generator will _remove_ that 12VDC, which flips the two-fisted solenoid
back to "line" power.

The one bit of confusion is that he said at 90 seconds that each solenoid
is controlling 240 volts, but I think it might only be controlling 120
volts (but I'm not sure if it's controlling 120V or 220V yet).
https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg?t=90

He then explained the transfer is controlled from the "plastic relay".
https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg

The "transfer" line on the terminal strip comes from the electronics
that detects that the utility power has dropped and that the generator
has produced stable power for XX number of seconds. When it gets both
of those, it grounds the "transfer" wire, which closes the relay, etc.
In other words, your problem is not in the relay box, but rather in
whatever you're using for electronics to detect utility and generator
power (and timers). In the above video, it's the black box with all
the terminals and colorful labels. I don't see such a box full of
electronics in your photo:
https://i.postimg.cc/c49KfVwY/transfer01.jpg


I agree his box is different than mine, where mine is just like this one:
https://picclick.com/Generac-Transfer-Switch-100-Amp-250-VAC-One-153421838181.html

Mine and that one for sale are "simpler" looking than his is.

Find the "transfer" terminal, disconnect whatever is connected to it,
ground it, and see if it acts like the relay in the video.


I think it should be easy to put 12VDC onto pins 23 & 194, but I need to
get a bunch of those BBS-4 and BBS-5 fuses first.

So my current plan is:
a. Source the two missing BBS-4 (or?) BBS-5 fuses.
b. Then test with 12VDC to see if the double-fisted solenoid operates

If that makes it work, then my problem is likely the "sensing" circuitry,
where this sticker explains all that sensing circuitry is hard coded, I
think: https://i.postimg.cc/Pr7zGN11/transfer12.jpg

Incidentally, 200A service should use 2/0 copper (or 4/0 Aluminum or
CCA) minimum. In some counties, it's 3/0 copper minimum. That
doesn't look like 2/0 in the photo. More like #4. Color me very
suspicious.


You have a good eye, where all I can say is that I didn't wire it.
I did INCORRECTLY say it was 300 Amp mains service, where, when I shined a
light on it and put chalk on the mains breaker, it turns out to be 200Amp
service. https://i.postimg.cc/g2VRj758/transfer25.jpg

What's odd is that there are _three_ 100 Amp sub panels!
https://i.postimg.cc/NFX84jNP/transfer26.jpg

Which seems kind of strange, but I didn't wire anything and all the permits
that were pulled were closed, so, it must make sense (code wise).

Two of those 100 Amp panels are in the house, and one is at the pool.

I need to call Generac (800-GENERAC) where I'm confused about the fuses
o Why BBS-4 _and_ BBS-5 fuses?
https://i.postimg.cc/DwTNdMhv/transfer05.jpg

Once I source those hard-to-get fuses, I will test the 12VDC at cryptic
pins 23 & 194.
https://i.postimg.cc/tgDN6rqM/transfer06.jpg

If the double-fisted solenoid does not trigger...
https://i.postimg.cc/TYq0GY8x/transfer03.jpg

then we know that the sensing circuit isn't working to put 12VDC across
those two pins. https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg

Thanks for that wonderful video.

I'm a bit leery of what I can test with the MAINS connected though, since
the power is currently running fine ... so I will need to be careful since
it's only once a month that the PG&E power goes out for me to run the full
test.