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Jeff Liebermann Jeff Liebermann is offline
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Default How the heck does a typical home transfer switch work?

On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 03:22:39 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder"
wrote:

The last guy who worked on that generator is in Santa Cruz, based on the
label on the outside panel, which I found buried under stuff.

This DEFINITELY WORKED so it's NOT miswired. The only problem is that the
solenoids are not automatically kicking on.


Let me guess... State Electric Generators formerly in Harvey West
Park? They moved to Scotts Valley:
https://www.stategen.com
High prices and so-so work. You could do worse. State does much
better work than what I saw in your photos which suggests that they
were fixing something.

Here's what SHOULD happen:
1. PG&E power goes out about monthly
2. The Generac generator automatically turns on
3. The two transfer switches should automatically turn on
4. The house should have two 100 Amps (the pool does NOT have power)
[Although the generator is puny - it's only able to output 67 amps!]
5. When PG&E comes back about 24 hours later - the generator turns off
6. The transfer switch transfers the two 100 Amps back to the mains

Everything above is working EXCEPT - I have to MANUALLY flip the
double-fisted solenoids.

If I switch just ONE of them, I get only half the house.
If I switch the SECOND one also, then I get the full house.

So my main problem is troubleshooting why the double-fisted solenoid is not
automatically turning on.


Try this video. Notice that the relays switch based on the condition
of one input wire labeled "transfer".
"Generac automatic transfer switch explained, demo"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT_3JYZS9Mg
The "transfer" line on the terminal strip comes from the electronics
that detects that the utility power has dropped and that the generator
has produced stable power for XX number of seconds. When it gets both
of those, it grounds the "transfer" wire, which closes the relay, etc.
In other words, your problem is not in the relay box, but rather in
whatever you're using for electronics to detect utility and generator
power (and timers). In the above video, it's the black box with all
the terminals and colorful labels. I don't see such a box full of
electronics in your photo:
https://i.postimg.cc/c49KfVwY/transfer01.jpg
Find the "transfer" terminal, disconnect whatever is connected to it,
ground it, and see if it acts like the relay in the video.

Incidentally, 200A service should use 2/0 copper (or 4/0 Aluminum or
CCA) minimum. In some counties, it's 3/0 copper minimum. That
doesn't look like 2/0 in the photo. More like #4. Color me very
suspicious.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558