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gregz gregz is offline
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Default DeOxit as a corrosion inhibitor

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jul 2019 11:09:40 -0700, (Dave
Platt) wrote:

For the non-working surfaces of metal tools, you might want to
consider an old woodworker's trick - wipe them with some pure tung
oil. This is a "drying" oil - it polymerizes on contact with air and
forms a solid film, which (from what I've read) is quite a good
moisture and water-vapor barrier. I don't think it has any specific
oxidation-blocking chemistry (such as Jeff referred to) so it's a good
idea to de-rust the surfaces before you coat with tung oil.

I've treated some hand tools by first cleaning up the rust with a
phosphoric acid dip/wipe (rinsing well afterwards) and then wiping on
some tung oil. A thin coat will "dry" (polymerize) within a day or
two, and the coating on those tool surfaces has held up well in
storage.

Note that this is pure tung oil I'm referring to - not one of the
commercial "tung oil" varnishes, which often contain little or no tung
oil.


Well, if tung oil works for you, then boiled linseed oil should also
work:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil/
I haven't tried either.

If you can tolerate something that coats the surface and hardens in
place, then any of the conformal PCB coating sprays (acrylic,
urethane, wax, etc) should work. Some have UV tracers built in so you
can see if you missed anything.

Anything that blocks moisture, stays in place, doesn't wash away, and
doesn't feed the fungus, should work. For me, that's common
automotive grease, especially the types intended for marine use, which
needs to be waterproof.
https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+grease&tbm=isch




Been using Boiled Linseed oil for years in automotive rustproofing. It
dries after a bit of smelly period. Also trying Fluidfilm for rustproofing.
Kinda stays moist. lanolin. Long term results not in yet.

Greg