On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 5:05:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jun 2019 10:21:46 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:
On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 12:47:52 PM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2019 8:32 AM, wrote:
Why is the ground rod at the service any better than the one at the
shop? I agree 4 is better than 2 but they are already bonded together
via the neutral in a 3 wire feeder. I doubt he wants to dig up the
yard. This was done this way for 90 years and we didn't pile up a lot
of bodies. The code change was mostly just to make the language
consistent with the rest of the code. Same with ranges and dryers. The
grandfather clause is still there for things done pre 96 adoption.
It does mean you have to be more careful with your bonding and
grounding tho.
the ground connection serves 2 purposes
1) a path for lightning
the ground rod is to provide a path for lightning etc.
this NEEDS to be a path to actual Earth ground because that is where lightning will go.
2) protection from shock due to equipment faults
this is to protect you from a shock if the hot wire shorts to the metal case inside an appliance. Think of a motor with all those windings of enameled wire. If the insulation should fail and connect the power to the metal case of the appliance, you can be shocked by touching the appliance. If the case is grounded however,
when the short happens, a large fault current will flow and blow the breaker. For a LARGE fault current to flow, the ground must be low resistance.. So you want a BOND WIRE between the neutral and ground in the system. This provides a path for the fault current to flow sufficient to blow the breaker if there is a ground fault.
Often a ground rod alone is too high resistance.
#2 is an important safety feature, I would not skimp on this.
So if have only 3 wires between the buildings and you can't add the 4th wire, I think bonding the outbuilding neutral and ground together at the entrance to the outbuilding is the safer option compared to relying on a ground rod alone.
You can also add a ground rod there to help for lightning.
If you don't need 240V and need only 120V in the outbuilding, you can use the 3 wires as hot neutral and ground. That is 100% safe and legal but you give up having 240V.
mark
Â* Done is done , I have bonded the ground/neutral in the sub panel and
added a ground rod out in the shop . Doing without 240V is unacceptable
, I have 2 welders and an air compressor that all need 240V . And plans
are to install a 240V 3 phase motor with a VFD on the mill in the future
. Lightning is unlikely down in The Holler , but still possible . This
is a "hobby" shop , but is very well equipped - pretty much a full
machine and welding shop .
--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !
That's what I would have done too, except probably adding a second ground
rod. IDK how you're going to install 3 phase eqpt though, without redoing
what you just did and a whole new service, for that matter?
You can get a VFD that is single phase in and 3 phase out
I see, well that solves that.
So here's another puzzling question. In that thread about solar panels
that has now run amok, Danny brought up the issue of preventing backfeeding
into the grid.
AFAIK, that's built into the inverters, but how do they
do it? It would seem like the chicken and the egg problem. You need to
detect the grid power going off, but you are connected directly to it and
also powering it. So, how do they detect it? Obviously before connecting
they must first monitor the voltage, freq and phase and sync to it, but
once you connect, how do you then tell the other grid sources are gone?
I guess you could look for voltage drop, since with the grid down
you'd expect 99.9% there will be big voltage decrease. But is that
sufficient? And what do they really do inside those inverters?
Hypothetically, suppose there are 6 houses on a utility line that
have solar and that segment is connected to the whole distribution
system. The sun is shining, those houses are using significantly
less than the panels put out. I cut the line to the rest of the grid,
leaving just those 6 connected. What happens? Is the "grid" down?
How do those inverters detect it? Do they? What happens?