On 1/3/2019 10:03 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, January 2, 2019 at 7:32:53 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:
https://www.fs.fed.us/nrs/pubs/jrnl/1978/ne_1978_macdonald_chestnutproc.pdf
Proceedings from a conference in which he presented some of his
research; much early work and all you'd ever want to know of the
pathology... 
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Apparently my previous reading and research has led me to the wrong
conclusions. I suppose I should have researched the origin (who stated
such) of those articles, rather than what they had to say.
I was led to believe the west-of-the-Rockies trees were fungus free,
planted by pioneers before the fungus was ever here.
I haven't read all the (link) proceedings, but it states that, even
back then (early 1900s), the western trees were, in fat, hybrids, as you say.
I haven't read tremendous amounts of it, either, I was mostly curious as
to what Gary Griffin had published.
Which paper states that, do you recall? My gut feeling is that these
two specimens probably were/are true American chestnuts from somebody's
planting of nuts they did bring with them or that were just from the
Christmas stash when they were still widely available commercially
("Chestnuts roasting...") I remember them well in the days as a kid in
grandma's cupboard in the 50s, yet.
It's very difficult to try to guess just how old those two in Tumwater
may be given the abuse they've suffered...daughter is going to do some
more legwork and see if can learn anything more. Not that matters that
much, but it is a matter of curiosity, now!
I spoke with Willis Orchards, and several folks from the Ashville, NC chestnut foundation office and they confirmed that there are authentic seeds and seedlings available. The issue may be whether any growing products will subsequently be affected by the fungus.... again, as you stated and what I assessed, as well.
I've decided to gamble on getting 10 two year old plants and see what happens. Might be wishful thinking, but $200 and some planting & care labor is not a major investment. The Ashville folks sent me lots of info regarding soil, planting, care, etc. I haven't read through all that stuff, yet, but I feel a little more confident, than months ago.
My biggest concern, now, is whether the fungus is in my area, which seems to be several hundred miles south of the native range of the original growth areas.
Other concerns for my particular project:
1) Soil conditions are not exactly as lower Appalachian states, but it is sandy soil, not clay.
2) Summer heat may affect growth.
3) A few southern insects, like curculio caryatrypes and other weevil type bugs, will damage/destroy the nuts, themselves.
4) There may be other southern bugs that damage the wood, bark and/or leaves, i.e., maybe as to why the tree's original range doesn't extend to the far south (other than preferred soil type). I would suspect year 'round warm weather and excessive moisture contribute to greater insect activity.
5) No telling what other issues I may discover.
Indeed; don't know that you have anything to lose other than some
capital investment and time...if your area turns out to be free of the
fungus, there's a reasonable chance they'll outlast you.
One would _presume_ these folks are using cultivars that have been the
result of some of the breeding programs and so have what level of
resistance that has achieved by now; did they give any hints/information
along those lines of the source of their seedlings?
As far as climatology and soil and stretching the range...we've brought
innumerable maples, oaks, poplars, etc., etc., back from VA and TN to SW
KS over the time since (now 50 years) the first move to VA for Dad to
try to establish something besides the Siberian elms...nary a one has
managed to survive more than a few years at most--the hot, dry summers
and much colder, dry winters are simply more than they can stand when
combined with the difference in soils. Just required far more care than
was ever time available for with the need to actually farm for a living.
There are quite a number of oaks and even a few maples in town where
they are more protected from the wind and are in yards that get more
regular TLC so it is possible to keep just one or two going if one has
the time to put in the necessary efforts to pamper them sufficiently.
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