On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 12:04:56 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 1:24:11 PM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there
is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is
bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the
screw
is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire doe

not
squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being
tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic
handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don't
like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain
manner
(e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently


I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

Joe Gwinn

Yes, when it came out - double insulated with a 2 prong plug.

Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.

I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified
repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back together
unless we replace the cord."

If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of
OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter
very strictly:

https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/2009-03-16-1

I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.

I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be
betting any precious beverages.

But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose
business. A few years ago, I overheard a general contractor musing about
which plumber to use for a minor installation, commenting that one plumber
always pulled a permit regardless, and so chose someone else for the job.

Not that changing the cord is such a disaster, but I bet there are
bewildering and expensive stories aplenty.

Taken with the plastic clock story mentioned in the present thread, one
wonders if it´s best to do our own repairs.

Joe Gwinn

Another component to this discussion is who pays the repair depot to
re-assemble the tool??
Generally the "diagnosis" dissassembly is not charged out.
Our local repair center usually has a pretty good stack of "abandoned"
non-repairable tools. What does the contractor want an unuseable tool
for???

I have had several tools that replacement parts were no longer
available for, which, upon further investigation could be "updated" by
replacing one or two extra parts (of a sub-assembly) so currently
available parts could be used. One required replacement of the entire
plastic handle when the original switch and switch cover were no
longer available (the handle for the tool's replacement fit perfectly)
and another required replacement of the entire"ram" portion of a
SawzAll when the bearing portion was no longer available. Again, the
parts from the tools successor fit perfectly as an assembly (something
like $20 worth of parts instead of $9 - on a $139 tool)