On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 16:48:36 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, J. Clarke wrote
(in ):

On Fri, 21 Dec 2018 13:24:03 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

On Friday, December 21, 2018 at 11:52:22 AM UTC-5, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to
replace
the power cord on a circular saw.

If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring
connector"
from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61e5xG4kqXE

I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in t
e
video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses


The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if
there is space -- which looks questionable in this case.

In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the
stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in
ages,
and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.

Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the
bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. Thi

is bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and th

screw is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wi
e does
not squeeze out from under the terminal screw.

One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the
copper wire to solidify the ring.

The key is to ensure that the terminal screw cannot cut the wire while
being tightened.

.
I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the
plastic handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.

I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, bu

this area is critical.

Joe Gwinn

BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the
ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't
hurt".

I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I
don´t like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a ce
tain
manner (e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired diff
rently.

I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But
double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.

My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to
leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The
short-term fix was a green ground wire (with ring terminals at both ends)
from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I
discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.

But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy,
and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green
terminal for it.

I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job
site if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.

Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today.
Double-insulated is still OK by UL.

The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin
with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.

The fellow making the repair had made that repair some years earlier.

Not the _plug_, the _cord_. He did not say that he had replaced the
_cord_ earlier, or if he did I missed it.