On 09/11/2018 05:35, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/11/2018 01:50, John Rumm wrote:
Rather than worry about sanding right up to the edge, I would be
inclined to caulk the final interface between ceiling and beam, so
that you have something flexible at the join.

The problem is that that implies you can stop the filler a fixed
distance from the edge. In fact I am using massive amounts of caulk - on

I was thinking more of filling up to the edge, but not bothering to try
sanding right to the edge. Then just covering the edge of the filler
with (tooled) caulk.

7th tube so far - to do what can be done that way, but this part of the
L shaped house features the 90 degree bend and the green oak was exposed
Â*to rain longer because the roof was tricky to make in that part
because of the bend so the final shrinkage was far greater. Even the
longitudinal shrinkage of the main verticals is enough to cause cracking.

Across the 12" width of the central 12" square oak beams the shrinkage
is about an INCH

16 years on, its finally reached equilibrium and its time to sort it all
out.

I have tried about 6 different techniques so far, and this is the first
one that actually works, but am simply physically incapable of doing the
sanding by hand. At lest more than a half beam in a day, and there's 48
half beams in the ine room alone..

Any hand sanding would need to be very quick and minimal obviously given
the scale of the job. Those proper sanding pads with handels etc make it
much easier. Also the ones that can be mounted on a pole make it much
easier - i.e. you can stand ont he ground and use full arm moevments etc.

Working overhead even with a lightish tool like a multimaster will still
get tiring.

The only other option I can think of for sanding right to an edge that
can also achieve a good finish, is a linear action sander. These aree
far less common than orbital or RoS machines. Festool do one:

https://www.festool.co.uk/products/s...q-plus-gb-240v

I have got it down a lot by being better at filling, but there is an
irreducible residue of sanding needed.

Are there multitools that don't need velcro pads?

There are some punched backing pads that allow for extraction through
the pad. I have not seen any with clamps to hold the paper.

Generally I have not had difficulty with the velcro type unless you
allow the pad to overheat (too much pressure usually - not that
difficult to do with such a small pad). Then they lose their ability to
retain the paper.

Axminster do some "interface" pads which are basically thin double sided
velcro sheets designed to sit between pad and paper. The idea being if
you knacker the velcro, you don't need to replace the more expensive pad
on the machine - just the interface pad. (they also have some thicker
spongy versions designed for curved surfaces)

I suspect that plaster dust and velcro are anathema

IME dust does not seem to cause it a problem... having said that, not
all velcro backing pads are made equal.


--
Cheers,

John.

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