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[email protected] tabbypurr@gmail.com is offline
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Default Need help INTERPRETING these test results police cruiser SAEJ866a Chase Test

On Monday, 15 January 2018 20:34:21 UTC, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 15 Jan 2018 14:19:40 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 17:58:04 -0800 (PST),
tabbypurr wrote:


You "only" get what you pay for - and then only if you are both lucky
and astute. You SELDOM get more than what you pay for

You can take THAT to the bank.


+1. Though even then there can be exceptions on occasion.


That's retail for you!

And really the difference is greater, I once bought a set of 4 brake
shoes for +AKM-1, that's under $2. They performed without any issue. Why?


Because someone was unloading something they didn't need, at a price
to get it off their shelves - and your requirements were not severe
enough to require anything better.


no-one here buys brakes off a scrapped car from scrapyards, so they had about zero market value. They were decent enough though. There was no reason to think they were any worse than the array of stuff sold new, and being for back brakes it wasn't a demanding app.

But my later experience with disintegrating pads suggests that getting brake shoes/pads this way may actually be safer.


I've also been "lucky" enough to pick up some real "bargoons" by
being at the right place at the right time. I often buy what no-one
wants any more - nobody inOntario wanted a 1972 Pontiac Firenza in
1974 or 1975 - so I gor an almost pristine Vauxhaul Viva HC Magnum
coupe for $75 - and it served me well for a number of years before I
sold it to a friend of my wife, who needed a car and had no money for
something "good" - and she drove it another 7 years untill it required
a part that was not readily available or available at a decent cost .

I got "more than my money's worth" - I got "more than I paid for".

The same with my current pickup truck which I bought for $1500 because
nobody wanted a meticulously maintained 16 year old ford Ranger with
over 300,000km on it. It's been virtually trouble free for 6 years -
I've spent about $1500 on repairs over more than 50,000km, and all
indications areI'll get a few more years out of it. I got more than
my money's worth.

In both cases It was because I new the "value" of what I was buying
better than both the seller and other potential buyers.


I like those kind of deals. Sometimes I get them.


No-one here wants to buy brake parts from scrapyards, even though
they're the same parts you get in the shops.


No they are not


how could they possibly not be? The new brakes sold end up on scrap cars


- and in MANY places it is illegal to sell used brake
parts and used exhaust/emission parts.


thank god not here

I'm not sure what you mean by "scrapyards". To me, that means a junk yard,
which contains dead cars. I wouldn't buy brakes off a dead car for a
billion reasons which are obvious so I shouldn't need to state it.


Sometimes a car ends up in a scrapyard with lots of brand new parts
on it. The owner puts $3000 into making it safe to drive - new brakes,
suspension,and tires - the either has it hit, or blows a motor or
transmission, and decides not to keep it and repair it - or they spend
all kinds of money fixing it up - making it into their ":boy racer's
wet dream" and then cannot get it to pass smog - and it ends up in the
scrapyard with LOTS of good and/or expensive parts on it.

That said - as a matter of principal - unless no other adequate
source of brake parts was available, I'd be looking elsewhere - first.
Have I used "used" brake parts in the past??
Yes. I put a complete used rear axle from a '63 Belvedere into my '53
Coronet - brakes and all - as an upgrade when the originals failed and
OEM parts were not readilly available, and the old design was less
than optimal.
ANd I put used parts on my '49 VW in Livingstone Zambia. Where was I
going to get new parts??????? On a Sunday afternoon half way between
Choima and Macha - (look it up on Google Earth - and keep in mind
this was 44 years ago - - - - .


I can't help thinking folk are deriving a false sense of security from buying new. The only totally unsatisfactory brake pads I've had were brand new from a major UK chain. If I'd seen those in a scrapyard I'd have known not to touch them. New one can't tell that they'll disintegrate in use.


Moving to historic vehicles, how would I find out which friction rating
of oak is?


Obviously not sufficientfor a 3 ton vehicle going 100MPH - and
definitely not as good after a long downhill stop - -- but likely, at
low speeds - al ot better than you suspect!!!


I presume the main issues with oak are
1. compressibility, meaning it requires more force x distance to get it to do the job
2. charring along with low thermal conduction, meaning high speed stops are no-go, or would that be go and keep going. If heated to such a point the wear would also be excessive.
3. flammability

The solution? More contact area


Or rubber in bicycle brakes.


There is SIGNIFICANT difference between different compounds of
"rubber" pads for rim brakes - includingin their stopping power and
their destructive effect on rims - some better for chromed rims, and
others for Alloy rims - some working better for side-pull, and others
for center pull (different amounts of pressure available)


I never knew that.


NT