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Mad Roger Mad Roger is offline
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Default Need help INTERPRETING these test results police cruiser SAE J866a Chase Test

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 08:52:07 -0800 (PST),

not really. But cars generally seem to deal with it ok.
Ultimately it comes down to enough force to create enough
friction, and almost any friction material can do that.

I agree with your logical thought process in that the only scientific
summary that makes logical sense is that all pads work just fine in
passenger vehicles, with the main difference being the foot pounds of
torque applied to the brake pedal to obtain the desired deceleration rate.

Hence, any pad is fine, EE or FF or GG, for stopping the vehicle.

I certainly bought bad pads in about 2000.

I go though a set of front pads once every couple of years, never more than
two years on my own vehicle, but on this vehicle, it took 20 years to go
through one set of rear shoes.

The ones from the scrapyard OTOH I had no problem with.

The problem isn't the scrapyard per se.
The problem is getting the *right* pads at the scrapyard.
That can't be easy (see my other post on how that's done).

Those I got to see after they'd been used a bit, so I knew they
weren't disintegrating, let alone badly, or oily.

What does that even mean?

You criticised buying pads off scrap vehicles before, but truth
is every time you buy a used car you're getting used brake pads.
It's not a problem really.

I don't at all disagree with your apropos logic that every time you buy a
used car you get used pads, but, you can assume (logically) that the pads

I've been to junk yards where there literally are junked cars piled four
and five cars high outdoors, where you walk the yard looking for the fender
or mirror that you want.

To look for brake pads would be an order of magnitude harder because you
can't see the brake pad until you find a similar vehicle make model and
year, you climb up to the top car, you remove the wheels, you pull the
rusty drums or calipers off, and then, only then, do you get any chance to
see the condition of the brake pads and shoes.

Or, if the scrapyard does all that for you, and has placed a ton of brake
shoes on the shelves, you can pick among them for the right size and shape,
but that process comes with the problem that you have to have a comparison
pad and shoe in your hands, which means your car is up on blocks and you're
borrowing someone else's car.

If you can read the AMECA edge code, you have a chance at getting the right
shoe or pad, but it sure does seem like a lot of effort when an FF pad or
shoe is about $20 a set of four at Rock Auto.

Did I surmise the scrap yard process incorrectly?
If so, how would you correct that process of *selecting* the right pads?