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Casper Casper is offline
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Default Sharpening Stones

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com was heard to mutter:
Do you use any sort of compound?


Yes. For most hardened metals I use Flexcut Gold. I've got a ton of
it, lasts forever, and works very well.

For other metal types, especially softer, I use a couple different
compounds. Mostly green and red but occasionally white and black.

I've used those on leather, cork and even cardboard. Nifty trick to
sharpen up a pocketknife using nothing but a tiny bit of compound and
a piece of cardboard box. Gets lots of Ooohs and Ahhhs.

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder.

Stones work well for general shapening.

I won't argue the noise and mess, but it really does do a good job with
the right jig. I've gotten better edges off the grinder and honed with a
Work Sharp than I ever did running through the grits. I wonder if the
hollow grind has anything to do with it?


Hollow grinds can be tough w/o a turning stone. I've got a few old
Cutco's that are very difficult to sharpen any other way. For those
kinds of things I stick to slow and wet wheel grinding or belts.

Cutco resharpens, BUT are now known to send new knives instead. My set
is over 60 years old and I have yet to see another set like it.

Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.


Ha! Sorta. Machete is a tool, albeit a long one. I no longer own one.

I do a lot of sharpening and restoration. I just finished a German
carving set (knife, fork and steel hone) for my BiL. His grandfather's
well used but not well cared for set with stag handles badly dried,
steel heavily scratched/chipped, and silver bolsters black. Now looks
almost new. One partial scratch still on knife (almost gone) left only
because further work would remove maker stamp. Now saddest thing about
this set is the box, basically covered cardboard and falling apart.

Two items I received last week to start work on are two steel swords.
One is 50" long, 39" blade and weighs approx 7lbs. The second is 39"
long, 32" blade and weighs approx 2lbs. Pommels are large steel balls.
Handles wrapped in leather and twisted copper wire.

They belong to a friend would not let me do anything with them. Oddly
he had me clean and preserve his Spanish sword. These two have a fair
amount of rust and have darkened. Friend is moving. I asked what his
plans were for them and he said to give them to me. Now they are mine
and await restoration. I have a plan to embelish them a bit. Once
done, I may sell the larger and just keep the smaller. I'm getting too
old to play with those heavy blades anymore.

Do you create a rounded bevel? I saw that suggested for some chisels as
a way to keep more metal near the cutting edge while still allowing the
cutting edge to cut easily.


You mean a convex edge? If so, for certain tools and knives I do.
Usually axes and bushcraft style knives. It really depends on the
tool, what it's intended purpose is, and metal type.

I love sharp pointy things. Does that count for metalworking?


Sometimes! Do you like smooth round things as well? We use the sharp
pointy things to make smooth round things. :-)
Puckdropper


Yes, I like smooth rounds things too. I have made a few of those too.

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