In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
Any gotchas about a DIY install? I've done PVC windows and patio doors OK
some time ago.


A single pane fully glazed uPVC door isn't very rigid at the corners,
and will lozenge given half a chance.

Aren't they steel framed?

You prevent this by strategic
placement of packing pieces between frame and sealed unit - by what is
called "heeling and toeing". The sealed unit then gives the frame the
necessary rigidity.

I do remember spending time getting the patio doors absolutely square -
but I've lost the instructions that came with them. (they were a stock
size from Screwfix, and have lasted very well)

The door hinges usually have adjusters for in and out, and to and away
from the frame - using Allen keys which effectively vary the
eccentricity of the hinge pins.

It's as well to make the frame slightly undersize, and use packing
pieces to allow for the brickwork (in your case wooden frame) being
slightly out of square - and then cover the gaps with a bead of mastic.

Right. How is the frame normally fixed to the 'wall' (my wood frame)? Just
screws through it?

Basically I'm hoping the better locks and seals will keep out water over
the old wood door with just a single latch. Which flexed a fair bit.

--
*Before they invented drawing boards, what did they go back to?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.